Procedure after receiving vintage razor

[H Brad Boonshaft]

I have used WD40 on Ivory and wood for years without issue. The WD40 website recommends WD40 for cleaning, hydrating, and preserving ivory.

Some piano conservators do not recommend it for use on Piano keys as it can penetrate the thin ivory veneer and cause the glue to release, not because it affects the ivory. I only have 2 Tortice razors and have used it on both without issue. I have also cleaned many bone scales with no problems.

While I have only a few wood scaled razors, mostly Ebony, I use WD40 liberally on many hundreds of antique Rosewood tool handles to clean and to rehydrate, it does darken the wood but also brings out the beauty of wood. I finish Rosewood with Boiled Linseed oil.

WD40 and 0000 steel wool will remove decades of dirt, grime, and oils in minutes. The formulation of WD40 is a secret, many believe that it is mostly mineral oil.

The problem may be in soaking bone and ivory, I do soak horn in Neetsfoot oil some time the whole razor for weeks if I forget, it does not harm the horn or scales, and can revive the horn.

I cleaned a pair of NOS Ivory razors yesterday with WD40 without issue, and am soaking a pair of NOS Gutta-percha scaled razors that have turned greenish brown from sun light. You can see where the price tag was in the middle of the scale, and the Gutta-percha is still gloss black as is the back side, (likely sat in a display case for many years). After 2 days the green side is slowly turning black again.

 

[Wombat ESQ]

soaking a pair of NOS Gutta-percha scaled razors

Man has invented some stuff .... Gutta-percha, same stuff in root canal fillings

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I've never used WD40 to specifically clean ivory but I've honed several using it and it has a tendency to migrate up toward the pivot-- haven't noticed any issues.

Hard rubber, ebonite, especially, seems to react a little to the solvents though, but not destructively.

 

[Stapelfeld]

Of course, if someone isn't going to use the razor then honing it doesn't matter. doh.
That should be obvious.
Seems to me it's also obvious that the OP is talking about user-type blades.

Note about disinfecting.
Has absolutely nothing to do with ancient bacteria that would be dead after decades or centuries.
Has more to do with whether or not the seller or anyone else handling the blade cut themselves on the blade prior to shipping.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen people cut themselves at a knife show and those blades just get wiped off and put in back in a box. Does anyone really think fleabay sellers that cut themselves on a razor are sterilizing the blade before packing? Lol...
A spritz of DOW or whatever just makes sense and is worth the peace of mind.

Yes this is exactly what I had in mind, thank you!

 

[Gamma]

You're welcome.

 

[alex1921]

You can get isopropyl alcohol pads on Amazon. 100 for $4. Same they use before getting an injection.
Wipe the blade, pathogens die, alcohol evaporates and you done.

 

[SK1]

Does this mean I can start using my antique ivory scales to shave with? I was under the impression that they were now just for looking at!

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Does this mean I can start using my antique ivory scales to shave with? I was under the impression that they were now just for looking at!

I've had better luck shaving with the blade than the scales. YMMV.

 

[SK1]

LMAO, but I've never shaved without one .....

 

[gpjoe]

Do not use oil, WD-40, Ballistol, etc on bone, wood, ivory, or tortoise scales. I would avoid solvents on these materials too.

I'm pretty sure that Ballistol was created and intended to be used to clean and preserve brothe metal AND wood, specifically on firearms. From the Ballistol site:

Ballistol maintains, protects, preserves, and rejuvenates unpainted wooden surfaces. It regenerates natural wood and brings out the wood grain. It protects wood against damage from humidity and insects. Antique furniture and old, dry, dull wood regain their natural silky glow when treated with Ballistol. Ballistol is ideal for maintaining wooden gun stocks and pistol grips.

Of course it is possible that Ballistol may darken wood, but I don't see how it can be harmful to wood, and certainly not steel...though I agree that I would NOT risk using it on bone or ivory.

 

[Steve56]

Yep, oil will darken wood. If you don’t mind the change, it’s usually OK

 

[alex1921]

I have been using Balistol on ivory scales for years and so far haven't noticed any badness. On the contrary, old ivory that was dry now looks much better.

 

[Steve56]

Has anyone used neatsfoot oil on ivory?

 

[alex1921]

I have not. I stumbled on the Balistol by accident. I had sent some old ivory razors for resto and my friend covered the steel with Balistol. The scales were old and looked dry on the way there. When they returned they looked much better. So I put more and it worked. Since then I am using it.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Has anyone used neatsfoot oil on ivory?

I may have, actually. I can't exactly remember. I had a set of scales that were repinned in such a way that they had extra tension on the rear scale (I know, because I was the one who did it), either the pivot hole in the tang was cockeyed or the scales were drilled cockeyed, I can't remember that either. The pivot pin was broken when I got the razor and I'm sure that's why.

Anyway, the point of the story is that it was manageable but after a long winter of dry indoor air in our new place, the rear scale developed a significant warp. I think I tried rehydrating it with neatsfoot but it wouldn't soak it up, at least not like horn will. I ended up laying the razor on a damp cloth for a few days, and as the scale started to relax I added a light weight to it to encourage it to straighten out more. Once it was back to normal I gave it a light coating of mineral oil. It was stable after that, at least until I sold it.

The nice thing about ivory is that just handling it regularly will help keep it happy. But if you're going to store it for any length of time it pays to keep the humidity a little higher or oil it periodically.

I have also heard the recommendation for Ren Wax. The only ivory razors I still have, get used somewhat regularly, so they're exposed to moisture and skin oils. But I do check on them this time of year just to make sure they're not drying out too much.

Only reason I was willing to experiment on that razor was that it had a lot of issues, not just the scales. I was surprised at how much difference hydration with just moisture made for it.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I think I read an article on ivory preservation that recommended occasional treatment with pure mineral oil, and exposing it to natural light (but not direct sunlight) to keep it from yellowing-- direct sunlight will bleach it out, I guess, and it will yellow if stored in the dark too long.

 

[Steve56]

Thanks Matt

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Thanks Matt

You're welcome, sir.

This may be the article I was thinking of, it recommends almond oil, applied annually, 22 C/72 F and 50% relative humidity. Also talks about the light factor. Ethical ivory restoration and conservation Restoration - Fine Art Restoration Company - https://fineart-restoration.co.uk/news/ivory/

 

[alex1921]

Almond oil hey? I ordered some pure one from Amazon and will give it a try.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Almond oil hey? I ordered some pure one from Amazon and will give it a try.

I make no guarantees, having not tried it myself, but that article at least sounded knowledgeable. Let us know what you think. Mrs. Scandalous has an ungodly collection of various oils she uses to concoct balms and unguents but I don't think almond is one of them.