I agree.
Please help a new Straight Razor shaver out
- Thread starter abmcp13
- Start date
I agree.
Is give them 15 mins each with some metal polish before they go to the hones. It will make a world of difference (and you don't want to do it after theyve been honed)
for the same price to.and from shipping you could go to a local sharpener---- i will sharpen one if you want------
http://coticule.be/straight-razor-honing.html
read this before honing.
This is based on using a particular system, specifically a coticule, which is an excellent natural hone. You can use any hone system you like with the bulk of this information.
Your hone may not be fast enough to set the bevel with (but I could be wrong), so having them honed is probably a good idea the first time. Blades that sit for a long time can develop a deep "patina" an require a fair bit of oxide damaged metal removed before they take a proper edge again...even nice clean blades like you have there.
Phil
read this before honing.
This is based on using a particular system, specifically a coticule, which is an excellent natural hone. You can use any hone system you like with the bulk of this information.
Your hone may not be fast enough to set the bevel with (but I could be wrong), so having them honed is probably a good idea the first time. Blades that sit for a long time can develop a deep "patina" an require a fair bit of oxide damaged metal removed before they take a proper edge again...even nice clean blades like you have there.
Phil
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
They will want a complete honing, from bevel setting, up. The good news is you don't have major chips or dings or smiles or frowns to breadknife out. Those two razors will hone up nicely with minimum fuss. The REALLY good news is that once they are properly honed, you can easily maintain the edges with 1u lapping film on a polished marble floor tile. You can even prolong the duration between such touch-up honings by stropping a dozen laps after each shave on a balsa block (I recommend 1" x 3" x 12" in size) pasted with diamond or CrOx. Theoretically you could go indefinitely without re-honing, with proper technique stropping on the pasted balsa. In practice, figure a couple months to begin with, and several months when you get the hang of it. This is in addition, of course, to the required stropping on unpasted leather before each shave.
Your first strop will catch hell from you as you learn to strop. So, I would not drop major coin on your first one. And since you will also want a pasted balsa bench strop, get Larry's poor man strop kit, which includes both the pasted balsa (with a small supply of CrOx and iron oxide for replenishing) and a cheap and basic leather hanging strop. www.whippeddog.com. He also has some cheap badger brushes suitable for a newbie... suitable for anyone, actually. If you want another vintage razor, so as to save your heirlooms while you learn, pick up one of his sight-unseen vintage razors. It will be already honed and in every respect shave-ready.
Your first strop will catch hell from you as you learn to strop. So, I would not drop major coin on your first one. And since you will also want a pasted balsa bench strop, get Larry's poor man strop kit, which includes both the pasted balsa (with a small supply of CrOx and iron oxide for replenishing) and a cheap and basic leather hanging strop. www.whippeddog.com. He also has some cheap badger brushes suitable for a newbie... suitable for anyone, actually. If you want another vintage razor, so as to save your heirlooms while you learn, pick up one of his sight-unseen vintage razors. It will be already honed and in every respect shave-ready.
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