Nova316 Straight Razor Adventure

[Nova316]

I have been on and off about buying a straight razor for sometime while researching as much as I can, started DE shaving in February so its been quite a journey already especially with AD. I was able to buy a package from Rickboone included a honed razor/strop/and some lapping film. Anxiously waiting for it to arrive I have been googling how to hold the razor to stropping. Nothing really prepared me for the first time I laid my eyes on that green/yellow Geneva straight razor. I found a king cutter at an antique show for a decent price but it definitely wasn’t shave ready.

Having 2 day growth I finally took the dive to straight shave that night. Using nancy boy replenishing cream I made a nice thick and stable lather, staring at the blade as it looked back at me and mocked me for waiting so long. I eventually gathered up the new and slowly put it towards my face. I thought to myself this is pretty easy, taking off all the lather in a few short strokes. I didn’t hear any noise as this was a hollow grind but continued down my face and the rest of my cheek. I felt so accomplished at this moment that I was able to do this effortlessly until I felt the result and it was exactly the same as if I didn’t shave at all.

I have placed the blade on my face at too sharp of an angle causing the blade to slightly lift up. I relathered my face, by this time the other side of my face lather has completely dried and was flaking off my face like bad dandruff. I put the blade to my face and push it flat, slowly increasing the angle ever so minimally before I hear the signature cutting song. This was music to my ears and kept going slowly while trying to maintain this angle. By now it’s been about 20 minutes to do just one cheek. I switch my hands to try my left side, this was even worse. I am very uncoordinated with my left hand so it caused some problems but no cuts at all not even a weeper. I was actually able to shave closer with my left hand than my right, it has to do something with my pressure and angle because it flowed so effortlessly. I finished the rest of my face up with a DE.

I am also very thankful that Rick dulled the point of the spike point or else I would of clipped my ear. All in all I think it was a rather successful first attempt at shaving with a straight. What a rush and zen moment it was to finally have my first shave. This forum has been nothing but helpful and continues on to help me.

 

[brother cavefish]

it is customary to post your first cut

 

[Nova316]

Second shave last night, went super smoothly just did cheeks, jawline and a bit of my chin.
Lather was completely broken apart tho so it wasn't slick enough. Probably won't be using that cream when going with straights
Maybe I'll try a soap tonight.

Razor had a bit of tugging near the end, I think I need to strop it more but overall quite a good shave but still needed to finish it up with the DE

 

[Nova316]

3rd shave with Castle Forbes Lime
Wonderful shave on my cheeks, should of paid more attention when putting the blade to my upper cheeks ended up putting two small paper cuts one on each side from the blade coming in at to steep of an angle
Oh well lesson learned
Did WTG and XTG on my cheeks, blade was much smoother, did 10 laps on the rough side 30 laps on the smooth side no problems at all cutting the hair or my face haha

Gonna wait to do my next shave, gonna let these cuts heal

 

[Nova316]

Going onto my 5th shave, the 4th and 5th have been pretty uneventful. I think I need to find a slicker cream or try a soap. The cream just seems to build up or I need to thin it out more. Since it seems to cause a bit of resistance when I shave
The straight is going well slowly doing more and more of my neck ever so carefully. But more so learning how to blade cuts vs scraps the hair off my face. All still a massive learning curve for me
Using Alum and AS is still quite stingy on the jawline and neck but not so much on my cheeks anymore.
Stropping has improved a lot the muscle memory is starting to build I don't need to go ultra slow just so I don't nick my strop

 

[cameraflier]

I also started with a DE. For straight shaves, I've come to prefer a wetter, lighter, slicker lather. Try making yours a little wetter, and see what happens. If it sticks to the blade, like spackle, it's too dry. I like it almost giggly. Cream or soap doesn't matter to me, as long as it's quality.

Good luck.

 

[Tkocloser]

I also started with a DE. For straight shaves, I've come to prefer a wetter, lighter, slicker lather. Try making yours a little wetter, and see what happens. If it sticks to the blade, like spackle, it's too dry. I like it almost giggly. Cream or soap doesn't matter to me, as long as it's quality.

Good luck.

+1 I'm still working on this as I make my cream pretty thick, probably due to my DE experience. I need to try for wetter, lighter, and slicker lather too. Great reminder for all of us.

 

[Nova316]

Thanks for this info, I'll definitely try this tonight. Yah my cream is like wet spackle. It works great for DE not so much for straights as it makes the glide of the blade ultra rough
I'll go more wet tonight and see how the reports are. Thanks for the help!

 

[Nova316]

I should realy update this to keep track
I am on my 10th shave started to go ATG on the neck as WTG on my neck seems to be useless/can't cut anything
Been doing 30 laps on the strop, getting a new strop soon from WCS just waiting on shipping. Anyone have any good palces to get CrOx or Diamond paste so I can put it on a strop?

Also got a total of 4 cuts small paper cuts nothing major no big bleeds, from me not paying attention!
Once I get a cut tho I put down the straight and move back to the DE. I wanna try my bigger blades but they have smiles so I'll have to learn to hone them first

Also thinning out the cream worked really well to make it much easier to shave vs the thick goop which is perfect for DE but terrible for straights

 

[Nova316]

Had to stop a few strokes into my shave yesterday, blade was pulling and tugging a lot.
Might need to run it on 3 um/1um for a few laps or try 50 laps on the leather strop

 

[rickboone1]

Just read through this. Sorry you're having some troubles.

As far as tugging mid-shave, that could be your lather drying out. Try using a watery lather. It'll still protect and cushion just fine. You're shaving a lot slower than with a DE. Don't be afraid to wash everything off and completely re-lather.

whippeddog.com has CrOx in small quantities for cheap. Personally, I'd stay away from it. Gives a harsh feel, IMO. But, others love it.

The neck can be a tricky area. I've been at this for a few years and still have some areas on my neck I have to go slower and won't get that close. For now, don't go for ultimate close. Learn the feel and control of the blade. A great way to do that is shave your first pass with a DE. This way you don't have any major "cutting/ reduction" to do with the straight. With learning how to cut with the straight and both control it, all the while contorting your face, it can be quite daunting.

I know shipping can be long, but anytime you need it touched up, just send it back and I'll send it back sharpened for you. Your face may not like my edges. Actually, if I recall correctly, someone else honed that one. That's neither here nor there, though. I'll touch it up for you if you think it needs it, or will help you to do it on your own.

However, with lapping film, search Slash McCoy's posts for some stellar advice. (Ignore the part about the tape, though, lol).

Nothing wrong with doing 100 laps on that strop, either. Your stropping technique is new and may be lacking. Out of 30 strokes, 10 may have had good contact, perhaps.

 

[Nova316]

Hey Rick
I've been having quite a bit of success but its intermediate depending on the day. I think you are right about the strop having bad contact because I am new at stropping. I'll give it another try tomorrow
Some days it works beautifully and just cleanly cuts off the hair but yesterday it tugged a lot so I am going back to stropping and getting it back to a blade. I guess it is a nonstop learning process.

I am going to stay away from CrOx because people have said it gives really hard edges compared to 1um film. I think the blade is still find but my 30 strops I am only getting a few good ones so I am actually not stropping it enough.

I will definitely read up slash Mccoy post on film tomorrow at work, if I can't get my stropping to fix this problem of tugging. Though it could be my stropping that dulled the edge!

But one thing at a time and I am definitely loving moving on from DE to straights. I reduce my DE down to 3 from 7 and increased my straights to 7 from 1

Definitely will keep this journal updated more often and try even lighter lather. Or move onto a soap I know that has slick qualities like QED

 

[rickboone1]

Glad you're having fun and increased success. Sounds like you just hit a bump in the road. Keep at it!

 

[Nova316]

I think my stropping technique has improved greatly as after I am done stropping (50 laps) I am still able to get hairs to pop
Shaving has become much easier with no cuts in the few shaves *knock on wood*
I still haven't been able to go ATG on my face but WTG and XTG is working out well
Starting to really love straight shaving tho I wish the blade was just a tad heavier

Also straights cut so much closer as I only need to shave every other day it appears after using a straight compared to a DE

 

[Nova316]

Well there goes my straight shaving journal till I can figure out how to hone
Tried to shave with it yesterday won't even pass HHT test or cut any hair just scraping

 

[Doc226]

Well there goes my straight shaving journal till I can figure out how to hone
Tried to shave with it yesterday won't even pass HHT test or cut any hair just scraping

I can hone it for you for the price of shipping, PM me if interested.

 

[Nova316]

Thanks Doc
I'll let you know if I can't hone it I have a Coti coming to me

 

[rickboone1]

Thanks Doc
I'll let you know if I can't hone it I have a Coti coming to me

Not to tend to a fella's business, but only highly suggesting from my own mistakes...don't start with a coti. At this point you're not even sure how a blade is supposed to feel on your face. A coticule can cause a lot of frustration. I'm not knocking a coticule....well, okay, I am a little. You can get great edges off of them. Doc uses them and does so. For you, that's barely gotten a decent shave under his belt it is not a place to start. Honing is not something I'd yet suggest. It takes a while to develop the "feel" of how the blade should be. Seriously, bro, just trying to save you some frustration.

I'd say watch some videos on honing. Figure out how to apply the lapping film to a solid surface/ stone like material. Granite slab, whatever.

Put the 3 on there. Do 20 light strokes. Put the 1 on there. Do 15 lighter strokes. Strop. Strop carefully like 100 times. Don't try to speed, ensure good contact. See if that helps your shave; along with other suggestions about the lather. If not, send it to myself or Doc.

Send it to me and I'll get it back in shape for you, or take Doc up on his offer. Doc puts a nice edge on them.

 

[Nova316]

Thanks for the advice Rick
I'll give that a try
I have Obiwan honing two of my Bokers right now so that'll give me a better understanding and feeling of what a straight should feel like

I'll watch some videos and keep at it! Thanks for all your help

If I can't get it after a week or so I'll definitely send it to one of you two

 

[Nova316]

I've been stropping like ****
After I got this Clydesdale 126 which has an incredibly light draw compared to my Walking Horse English Bridle which has quite a heavy draw where you can feel the leather!
One step at a time, but after stropping properly for 50 laps I am able to pass the HHT test where it pops off