Hi everyone. Been DE shaving for over a month now, and this forum and related videos have been an amazing way to learn about product and technique that just wouldn't have been possible before the Interwebs.
That said, there is a lot of really good advice out there, but as a Noobie, I really wanted absolutes. People ask questions and want black and white answers even though the only real answer is a shade of grey. So, I decided to compile some advice for the day 1 beginner from some of the lessons I have learned, sort of a set of guidelines to follow until they are more comfortable figuring things out on their own.
I'm sure some people may take issue with this sort of guideline, especially from someone so new, but I really think it's a useful start for someone with limited experience. If you agree, please add your "rules", and try to keep them as black and white as possible. Thanks.
Here goes:
What to buy:
I think the best thing to do is take the plunge. If you're really serious, invest in a decent DE razor (expect to spend between $25-50). Don't look at anything expensive or really cheap. A mid-range Merkur or Parker is all you need to start. If you quit DE shaving after a few months, you haven't wasted much money and can easily sell a decent razor. If you find you love DE shaving, as so many of us do, then you can invest in an upgrade if you really want to.
Same rule applies to the brush and soap. Don't go nuts, pure badger is excellent, and you don't need to spend $50+ on a brush, but don't be surprised if it costs almost as much as the razor. Cheap brushes may fall apart quickly but can cost under $10. If you get a month out of a $7 brush, you're still ahead of the game.
As far as shaving soap or crème, look at the reviews and jump in. Don't cheap out on the soap because this is what protects your face from the blade.
After these three core items, the rest is up to you. I spent a total of $150, including a nice stand and a pack of 35 sample blades from 7 different companies for $21 ($0.60 per blade. To buy that many cartridges would cost at least $100). I think that's a great idea too, buy low-quantity from several manufacturers. Yes, this can make the entry fee steep. If you can't afford this, scale back a little. Skimp on the brush. Buy fewer blades. Buy a refill soap and use you own bowl or mug. Buy a less expensive razor as a last resort.
First shave:
The first shave can be a harrowing experience. Putting a razor blade against your throat can be scary. Take it slow, watch the videos, and stick to 1-2 passes, max. You're not going for a BBSS (Baby-Butt Smooth Shave) first time out of the gate, you're learning technique and trying not to cut yourself much. Focus on the angle, your wrist staying stiff, and listen to the sounds the blade makes as it glides over your skin. That sound will help you nail the angle.
Subsequent shaves:
I have found that DE shaving has two learning curves. The first is to not fear the blade and start shaving correctly. The second is once you start to get comfortable, you may do what I did and get cocky. I started using pressure, which is unnecessary. All it does is result in cuts, not cleaner shaves. I had to pull back and re-learn proper technique.
Also, learn how to pull your skin gently to smooth it out - your face is curved and rounded, the razor is angular. You need to gently smooth out the curves.
The other thing I have learned is that even once I'm done with multiple passes, I can still feel stubble. I've gone back and worked on it, but it's not worth the blood. After you wash your face with warm and then cold water, use a little shave balm or after-shave, and a moisturizer, your skin will dry out from the shave and your whiskers will seem to almost recede into your skin. What felt slightly rough, becomes nice and smooth.
Changing blades:
Blades are super sharp and super thin. Subsequently they will dull super fast. This doesn't mean they will stop cutting, it means they won't cut as effectively. The problem is that as a beginner, we don't know the difference between a dull blade and bad technique. I have found that most of my blades make it 2-4 shaves before they start to perform differently. Therefore I recommend in the beginning, change the blade every 3 shaves, no matter what. In addition to dulling, blades get soap buildup, water minerals deposit on them (especially if you have hard water) which makes them microscopically coarse, and worst of all, little bits of you will get jammed between the blade and the razor making a great bacterial zoo. Replacing the blade every 3 shaves (in the beginning) keeps the blades really fresh, and your razor really clean. Since you cut yourself the most starting out, it makes sense to keep the razor as clean as possible during this phase. Once you're shaving and really comfortable, maybe 2-3 months in, then experiment with keeping the blade in longer. I think you'll find that while you can keep a blade for 5-10 shaves, there's a notable difference when you switch to a new blade. That's a sign that your blade was too dull.
Blades:
The first blade you use will be the best blade you have ever used: you have nothing to compare it to. I bought packs of 10 blades from 7 different manufacturers. I used the first manufacturer three times and really liked it. Then I switched to the next manufacturer and realized it felt much better. After three blades (9 shaves), I moved to the next. I took little notes about how it felt, how close and easy the shave was, how much or little I cut myself. The results are a mix of how any given blade sits in any given razor and how your skin and beard react to them. You have to switch it up in the beginning to find what you like best. Once I've tried them all, I plan to go back and start over - did I dislike the first blade because my technique was bad? I'll find out. Once I have my favorites, I can start ordering blades in bulk, even if I like 2-3 different ones, I don't think rotating is bad.
The brush:
We don't like to talk about it, but in the case of badger brushes, an animal died. Now, according to everything I have read, badgers are a nuisance animal and the hair used is brushes is a side benefit: I don't believe these animals are farmed like fur animals. That said, no matter how expensive or cheap, care for your brush. Don't pull on the bristles or you risk unseating the knot or worse, pulling the hairs from the knot. Just squeeze gently to wring it out and make sure it has air to dry appropriately.
The shave experience itself:
I'm still taking 20 minutes from start to finish. It's very slow and time consuming compared to slinging a 5-blade job across my face. Of course, when I use a cartridge like that, I can shave no more frequently than every other day because my skin gets raw and burned if I shave two consecutive days. I can't shave in the morning if it's really cold out.
With the DE's, I've been shaving nearly every day (with a few days off here and there), but up to 7 consecutive days with no redness or burn. My skin is really soft and smooth, and because I trim the whiskers in multiple passes from different angles, they feel less sharp, almost rounded. My grow-out isn't as abrasive as it used to be.
Women are very good at taking care of themselves. They have procedures and rituals for putting on their makeup, do their nails, some even pay someone else to do their nails once each week. As men, we tend to ignore caring for ourselves. Taking 20 minutes just about every day can be a chore if you let it, or it can be a ritual where you have time to think about very little other than shaving and relax with a nice warm layer of foam on your face.
Happy shaving! I hope this was useful to someone!
Nice write up. ..I can understand how you feel about the badger animals. ..but there are great synthetic brushes too.
