New Razor but what Blade?

[Poppalou52]

Hello! I am maybe one step above a Noob. I went back to wet shaving a few months ago and I keep having the same problem. My technique is improving every time I shave and I know it takes time. My cheeks are fine at the end of a 2 or 3 pass shave. However, I continue to experience Razor burn on my neck every single shave. I just ordered a Vikings Blade Crusader, along with a Blade sample pack. The question is, what style (mild,mid or aggressive) Blade should I be using? I'm retired and truly look forward to my wet shaving ritual and the satisfaction when I have a really good shave. Just really fed up with the Razor burn!
I look forward to your responses and thanks for your help!

 

[nlife]

Only way to find out is to try them and see. I tend to gravitate to the medium sharp blades like Derby Premium and Treet Platinum. I have tried and really liked the Bic Chrome Platinum which is a LOT sharper than the other two I mentioned.

 

[Keyvan]

Hello! I am maybe one step above a Noob. I went back to wet shaving a few months ago and I keep having the same problem. My technique is improving every time I shave and I know it takes time. My cheeks are fine at the end of a 2 or 3 pass shave. However, I continue to experience Razor burn on my neck every single shave. I just ordered a Vikings Blade Crusader, along with a Blade sample pack. The question is, what style (mild,mid or aggressive) Blade should I be using? I'm retired and truly look forward to my wet shaving ritual and the satisfaction when I have a really good shave. Just really fed up with the Razor burn!
I look forward to your responses and thanks for your help!

Hello,

I don't have specific experience with the Viking Blade Crusader, but I can see that it is an adjustable razor. My recommendation would be to use a sharp blade on the lowest or second lowest setting. Irritation can result from a sharp blade scraping your skin, but it can also result from a blade that is too dull for your facial hair tugging and pulling.

Examples of sharp blades that I have used are the Gillette Rubie, Gillette Platinum, Personna Lab Blue, Astra Blue, Gillette Silver Blue and the Voskhod, where the Rubie is the sharpest and the Voskhod is just sharp enough for my beard. In general, the most comfortable shave will be with a blade that is just sharp enough to go through your beard smoothly.

There are additional things that you can do to make it easier to cut through your facial hair. Firstly, shave after a shower or wash your face with warm water and a moisturizing soap (e.g. Dove Men's Care) prior to lathering. Secondly, make sure that you are using a soap that is easy to lather and that you have a good understanding of lathering technique. Examples of soaps that are easy to lather are soft soaps, like Cella and Proraso. Alternatively, you can use creams. If you are uncertain of your lathering technique, I would initially use a canned product like Aveeno Positively Smooth moisturizing shave gel. While it is a bit thick for DE shaving, it is the best canned alternative to traditional soaps and will allow you to evaluate whether your lathering technique is the issue.

The best advice might be to avoid shaving against the grain in the area where you are getting irritation. To determine the direction of the grain, prior to shaving run the back of your hand up and down and then left and right in the area where you are getting the irritation. The roughest sensation is the direction against the grain. The opposite direction should be the smoothest sensation and is with the grain. Initially, you should only shave with the grain and across the grain in the sensitive regions. With a sharp blade, that should be enough to give you a comfortable shave. Also, keep in mind that the direction of the grain could be different in the various areas of your face.

When you are starting out, it might also make some sense to give your skin a break and shave every other day.

If you want to use a post-shave product to help reduce irritation, I would recommend Thayers Alcohol Free Witch Hazel. Depending on your skin, Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm may also help you. The Aveeno, Thayers, and Nivea should all be available at Target and Walmart.

I know that your question is only about blades, but these other factor can affect irritation to an even greater degree.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Omega48]

IF you shave every day maybe you can't start doing it every other day instead, and see if it improves. Or don't go against the grain every time you shave and see if that helps. Sometimes it's just the skin that needs more rest between shaves.

 

[Dave himself]

Hi and welcome to B&B. As usual some good advice above. When it comes to different blades the only way to be sure what works best for you is to try each one.

 

[Goblin]

The best advice might be to avoid shaving against the grain in the area where you are getting irritation. To determine the direction of the grain, prior to shaving run the back of your hand up and down and then left and right in the area where you are getting the irritation. The roughest sensation is the direction against the grain. The opposite direction should be the smoothest sensation and is with the grain. Initially, you should only shave with the grain and across the grain in the sensitive regions. With a sharp blade, that should be enough to give you a comfortable shave. Also, keep in mind that the direction of the grain could be different in the various areas of your face.

This is it right here. Do an image search online for "beard map". If you don't already know, you need to work out what your beard map looks like - don't assume it's the same as the next guy. Once you have that committed to memory, you can shave knowing exactly which way you are going in relation to your beard.

At the beginning, it can often be helpful just to stick to maybe 2 X WTG passes rather than worrying about a "three pass shave" until you get used to the very light touch that a safety razor needs. If you are used to cartridges, it is lighter than you think it is - when you get it, you will have an "A-ha!" moment. Aim for a comfortable shave rather than a close one - closeness comes with time.

Finally, razor burn is often a result of too much pressure and / or too much aggression, which might be from too steep an angle on your razor. The amount of pressure you want to try and cultivate is no more than when you run the back of your hand lightly over your cheeks to feel for stubble. Do that as light as you can to get the "sandpaper" sound - that's how much pressure you should use with your razor. "Riding the cap" can help with finding the most efficient and non-scraping angle for the razor, but it does vary from model to model and some razors (albeit probably the majority) respond to this better than others.

The neck is always tricky. A lot of people have trouble with it to begin with and settle for a shave that isn't quite as close as on other areas. It might take a while but if you develop a light touch and avoid ATG, you should get there eventually.

 

[Marlin]

I look forward to your responses and thanks for your help!

First of all, welcome to the forum! Regarding your problem, the other members have made some good points, but I want to discuss some other variants that may be the problem for you. The first is the soap that you are using. You haven't mentioned it, but I'm guessing you are using something commercial. Most soaps have fragrances and ingredients like linalool, which are known irritants. The majority of the population does not experience irritation, but there is a good portion that is sensitive to these chemicals. I suggest you try an unscented soap. My recommendation is the Unscented with Beeswax soap made by Stirling. It's top-tier stuff, produces a good lather, and has no known irritants in the ingredient list.

The second point I want to make is that if you can't prevent it, just cure it. What I mean is that there are products that target razor burn and irritation after a shave. These products may not cure the irritation within 24 hours, maybe they will need a bit more time. But, as others have already mentioned, do you really need to shave every day now that you are retired?

My third and last point is: the problem may not be the blade, it may be the razor. Now, I suggest you start with the blade route first, since it's easier and more economical. But if you've tried different blades and your problem still persists, I recommend trying other razors. To be more exact, some people have problems with blade chatter. If you don't know what blade chatter is, a simple search on the forum or Google should help you. There are razors, mostly high-end ones like Blackland and Timeless, that have resolved this problem. They have a very small tolerance since they are CNC machined, and the geometry of the head helps clamp the blade in a position that eliminates blade chatter.

 

[musicman1951]

Finding the perfect marriage between razor/blade/face and technique is very much a trial and error experience. I know nothing about your razor, but as it's apparently adjustable that's another boatload of variables. In your shoes I'd probably pick a fairly mild setting and leave it there for the duration of the blade testing.

It's very possible (I'd say likely, but I don't want to come across as more of a smart "behind" than I already do) that your razor burn on your neck is due to a less than ideal razor angle and/or too much pressure. Again, the only way to find out is to experiment with different angles while using pressure you believe to be stupidly light.

But in any case, it's always easier to get razor burn with the wrong razor (or setting) and the wrong blade. Definitely try a handful of blades (the usual suspects, keeping the Feather blades for last).

Good luck. Do report back on how it's going and what works and doesn't. The more information we have the better the advice gets.

 

[BigJ]

Great advice above!

All I would add is that you should ‘map’ your beard, especially in the problem area to understand precisely what you are doing with each pass.

Stick with this and you will get the results you want!

 

[Tillerman]

Wet slick lather and very light pressure. All the above advice too.

 

[The Blackadder]

To be more exact, some people have problems with blade chatter. If you don't know what blade chatter is, a simple search on the forum or Google should help you. There are razors, mostly high-end ones like Blackland and Timeless, that have resolved this problem. They have a very small tolerance since they are CNC machined, and the geometry of the head helps clamp the blade in a position that eliminates blade chatter.

Or a more affordable Henson

 

[dmshaver]

Great suggestions given, I’m just jumping in to say welcome!

 

[yellcohawg58]

For me my neck irritation was almost 100% technique, my beard grows north to south on my whole face except on either side of my adam's apple on my lower neck and that's where my irritation would generally be no matter what combination of razor and blade I tried it would last from just a few minutes to several hours. I usually do a three pass shave (wtg,xtg and atg) one night I decided to try something a little different and did an atg first on either side of my adam's apple (I know, it sounds counterintuitive to do an atg first but hear me out) and then south to north xtg on second pass and another xtg north to south on the third pass. When I started doing that I've had little (less than a couple of minutes) to no irritation and still get a dfs shave almost every time. As always YMMV.

 

[Eshebert]

I am a fan of aggressive razors, my fav is my R41. To this day the VB Crusader Ragnar is me most aggressive and painful razor in have tried. Nothing enjoyable about it. I could not give you a blade suggestion for it. Maybe the only razor I hated worst was the VB Emperor Meiji, I will say their crap razors are better than their product support people.

As for smooth blades. Wilkinson Sword Gillette, Astra SP, Personna Platinum, Personna Comfort Coat are all mild, smooth and efficient.

 

[Eshebert]

Or a more affordable Henson

He has a good point, the Henson has been the remedy for many people here who suffer with sensitive skin, and they are very affordable. I struggled with how light they are and ended up moving on, but they are a great design and craftsmanship.

 

[NickCutlip]

Welcome to the forum !!

 

[Keyvan]

If you are new to wet shaving and you are successfully using the Viking razor on the majority of your face, with a single trouble spot, I would think that you can handle the razor on a low setting. Just make sure that the blade alignment and positioning is correct on both sides. Not shaving against the grain and easing up on the pressure might solve your problem. If it is a heavy razor, hold it closer to the head to relieve some of the pressure on your skin and don’t apply any added pressure. Only use the weight of the head itself.

If the entire shave was bad, I would advise you to try something like the Feather Popular, but you are only having problems on one area of your face. Based on what others have said about the aggressiveness of the razor, it is probably not the ideal learning tool, but may help you perfect your technique more quickly.

Changing razors or settings on an adjustable razor kind of takes you back to square one. Just my two cents

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

If you are new to wet shaving and you are successfully using the Viking razor on the majority of your face, with a single trouble spot, I would think that you can handle the razor on a low setting. Just make sure that the blade alignment and positioning is correct on both sides. Not shaving against the grain and easing up on the pressure might solve your problem. If it is a heavy razor, hold it closer to the head to relieve some of the pressure on your skin and don’t apply any added pressure. Only use the weight of the head itself.

If the entire shave was bad, I would advise you to try something like the Feather Popular, but you are only having problems on one area of your face. Based on what others have said about the aggressiveness of the razor, it is probably not the ideal learning tool, but may help you perfect your technique more quickly.

Changing razors or settings on an adjustable razor kind of takes you back to square one. Just my two cents

With respect to mild razors or mild settings, consider adjusting your razor as you would a change of razors - a return to square 1, requiring reassessing your assumptions.

Another unintuitive point - a slightly more aggressive setting may result in fewer passes and less irritation. Of course, this will challenge your technique so all of these elements interact.

It's a bit of a game of wack-a-mole. Don't give up, and try to do this systematically, and without changing multiple variables at once.

... Thom

 

[Poppalou52]

Hello! I am maybe one step above a Noob. I went back to wet shaving a few months ago and I keep having the same problem. My technique is improving every time I shave and I know it takes time. My cheeks are fine at the end of a 2 or 3 pass shave. However, I continue to experience Razor burn on my neck every single shave. I just ordered a Vikings Blade Crusader, along with a Blade sample pack. The question is, what style (mild,mid or aggressive) Blade should I be using? I'm retired and truly look forward to my wet shaving ritual and the satisfaction when I have a really good shave. Just really fed up with the Razor burn!
I look forward to your responses and thanks for your help!

First, I would like to thank everyone who responded for their support and comments! After reviewing the responses, it turns out that it wasn't the "bow or arrow", but the Archer! I carefully mapped my beard growth and found my neck actually grows in 2 different directions. Also, I only did a wtg and xtg pass, which really helped my neck irritation. I went slower and shorter with each pass. All in all, it was a markedly better shave! As time goes by, I will continue to work on my technique, and one day, I will be having BBS on a regular basis. Again, my thanks!!

 

[Keyvan]

First, I would like to thank everyone who responded for their support and comments! After reviewing the responses, it turns out that it wasn't the "bow or arrow", but the Archer! I carefully mapped my beard growth and found my neck actually grows in 2 different directions. Also, I only did a wtg and xtg pass, which really helped my neck irritation. I went slower and shorter with each pass. All in all, it was a markedly better shave! As time goes by, I will continue to work on my technique, and one day, I will be having BBS on a regular basis. Again, my thanks!!

That’s great. Continue experimenting with different blades to find your ideal one. Once you have the basic techniques down, the specific blade can make a huge difference on the experience.