A good 3.5 or 4 out of 5 star shave this morning with the Rolls. It's still not quite where I think it should be but 20 minutes and 3+ passes yielded a CCS. Just a bit of discomfort, where I worked a cheek too much I suspect . I think I'll use the razor a couple of times and see if it settles in. Still have a second blade that I want to continue with so I'll work on the TNT ect with that one.
New Improved 21st Century Rolls Razor!!
- Thread starter mjclark
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- #42
Well we're not quite to a BBS yet, but the latest modification made a huge differance. I swapped out the strop with CrOx compound for one with FeOx and it made a world of difference. The shave was considerably smoother and it really felt as if the razor was doing a better job cutting against the grain. I think I still don't have the blade honing quite right but it's very close. As a side note, I used at RR hone that's in fairly good shape for about 100 laps before I stropped it with the FeOX. (25 per side per direction.) I've still got to get something to magnify the edge so that I can get a look at it.
Clarification: the blade was honed and stropped with CrOX and I shaved. Then the FeOx came in and I swapped the strop, stropped the blade last night, and again prior to this mornings shave. The difference was in the strop compound, not the honing.
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- #45
Great news!
I had bad results with ChrOx too, although not sure why since it works so well for straights.
So now we've definitely established that the right paste for the Rolls strop is ferric oxide.
I had bad results with ChrOx too, although not sure why since it works so well for straights.
So now we've definitely established that the right paste for the Rolls strop is ferric oxide.
I got a set of el-cheapo loupes (2x-10x) from Horrible Fright yesterday, and a clip on jeweler's magnifier (16.5x) and took a good look at the edge on the blade I was using. I saw a bit of a nick and worked it out with the Arkansas stones (Medium and Fine) and then with the lapping media on a marble tile. I was unable to get all of the scratches out between the stones and the lapping media, which indicates that I need something in between. I might give it one more go and include the wet / dry sandpaper this time after the stone.
I also did some reading up on stropping the RR. I've been doing it too slowly according to the conventional wisdom. I increased the speed and used the 4-way stropping technique discussed in the WIKI, and that probably helped.
Having said that, this morning's shave was a DFS!
New question: this time when I put the guard back on the blade, it no longer "clicked" up and down. I tried it both ways... Any ideas anyone?
I also did some reading up on stropping the RR. I've been doing it too slowly according to the conventional wisdom. I increased the speed and used the 4-way stropping technique discussed in the WIKI, and that probably helped.
Having said that, this morning's shave was a DFS!
New question: this time when I put the guard back on the blade, it no longer "clicked" up and down. I tried it both ways... Any ideas anyone?
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- #47
Congratulations on that DFS. How satisfying!
I have a blade which doesn't click too. This doesnt seem to interfere with the stropping though and is something to do with the little ball bearing recessed in the side of the blade. Maybe it's stuck?
I have a blade which doesn't click too. This doesnt seem to interfere with the stropping though and is something to do with the little ball bearing recessed in the side of the blade. Maybe it's stuck?
Aha! I found a small ball bearing that I thought was from an older handle. I'll check it out...
Yep... That did the trick. Thanks!
Great topic!
Just started playing with the Rolls. Having a blast restoring a few. On the Ferric Oxide, where are you guys getting it from? I understand there might be different grits is why I ask. I would prefer getting some that is known to work. Is everyone mixing it baby oil? I have seen Vaseline mention to mix it with somewhere as well.
BTW, I found that 3 layers of pvc or electrical tape matched the bevel that the Rolls hone puts on the razor. Just so that is out there and may help someone.
Seth
Just started playing with the Rolls. Having a blast restoring a few. On the Ferric Oxide, where are you guys getting it from? I understand there might be different grits is why I ask. I would prefer getting some that is known to work. Is everyone mixing it baby oil? I have seen Vaseline mention to mix it with somewhere as well.
BTW, I found that 3 layers of pvc or electrical tape matched the bevel that the Rolls hone puts on the razor. Just so that is out there and may help someone.
Seth
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- #51
Great stuff!
I've been getting my feox from Taylors1000 via ebay uk:
http://www.taylors1000.com/direct_sales/sharpening/red_strop_paste/red_oxide.htm
This is the one I've been recommending and it's working great.
I have been using baby oil as the medium, and didn't get good results with vaseline but it's still worth experimenting with these Rolls retrofits - there's lots more to be discovered.
Useful to know that 3 layers of tape matches the angle in the case. I've been fully resetting the bevel with the spine flat, so the lapping film case hone then makes a secondary bevel, but I'm banking on the pasted strop making case honing superfluous.
Picked up some FeOx but I may have used too much oil. I am bummed the strop is brown rather than red. Stupid but still a bit bummed ; )
Has everyone taken theirs apart and cleaned it along with the center piece that causes the friction? If it is not good shape I hear these bad boys just will not behave properly.
Has everyone taken theirs apart and cleaned it along with the center piece that causes the friction? If it is not good shape I hear these bad boys just will not behave properly.
I'd take a paper towel or, even better, a rag, and rub the excess off. You'll probably get more than you think. Yes, you can take tbe leather out of the metal and yes, I've found that it makes it a bit easier to work on.
As far as "field stripping" the razor, there are instructions in the WIKI. It's not too hard but be aware that the spring that holds the blade on the friction arm / pin is brittle and you dont want to snap it in two! The whole pin, spring and bushing piece come off of the unit as one. Then you wipe any oil or grease off of and reassemble.
Cheers!
As far as "field stripping" the razor, there are instructions in the WIKI. It's not too hard but be aware that the spring that holds the blade on the friction arm / pin is brittle and you dont want to snap it in two! The whole pin, spring and bushing piece come off of the unit as one. Then you wipe any oil or grease off of and reassemble.
Cheers!
Just shaved. My face ( and the Alum block ) say that the 1 micron film and the FeOx is the right combination! Thank you all for sharing your thoughts and trials.
gdgeorge - I am not a pro but I hone all my own straights as well as for several friends. If you are still looking to get a blade or two honed send me a PM.
gdgeorge - I am not a pro but I hone all my own straights as well as for several friends. If you are still looking to get a blade or two honed send me a PM.
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- #55
Brilliant!
I shaved last night with a Rolls blade finished with 0.5u diamond on felt then stropped in the case with ferric oxide and the result was an amazing BBS.
With a good blade the Rolls offers the comfort of a straight, the closeness of a DE and the manouverability of an SE. Wow!
I'm currently preparing five blades for a friend from another forum, and the idea is to finish them all differently and compare results.
The 0.5u diamond left the blade initially quite harsh but it settled in halfway through the first pass to a lovely smoothness and, of course, it was wicked sharp!
The result was an absolutely gorgeous shave.
You feel the .5 micron diamond on felt gave a better shave than the 1 micron film? Has anyone tried the .3 micron film inside the case? On my straights I stop at 1 micron as most thought the .3 a bit harsh. Do I see .3 film in my future ... hmmmmmmm
Seth
Seth
- Thread starter
- #57
So far I've been finishing all the blades outside the case without resorting to the 1u film case hone.
Both the 0.5u diamond and 0.3u film over paper do give an edge that is initially a bit harsh but it soon settles in and I like both finishers for my straights.
With the Rolls, stropping on the feox pasted case strop also mellows the blades quickly.
The next experiment is to try a blade finished on 0.3u film then taken back on the 1u film case hone and then stropped.
I'd reasoned that 0.3u film in the case would be pointless since the feox strop will do a nicer job of maintaining the blade, and for actual resharpening of a dulled blade it would be too fine.
But it would be very interesting to hear how it might work in practice.
We're still finding our way with all this, so the more experimentation the better.
I will order some .3 micron film and play.
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- #59
Ok, I just shaved with a blade which had been honed outside the case without any tape, just flat on the stones.
It was finished on 0.3u lapping film, but then honed in the case on 1u lapping film and stropped inside the case with ferric oxide.
What a result! All that film made for a harsh edge but it will settle in with more shaves and more stropping.
And it's incredibly sharp, perhaps too sharp - it has delivered a two pass BBS
It seems the case honing has created a secondary bevel since in the case it hones at a different angle to flat on the stones.
So now the new Rolls is really starting to take shape!
It was finished on 0.3u lapping film, but then honed in the case on 1u lapping film and stropped inside the case with ferric oxide.
What a result! All that film made for a harsh edge but it will settle in with more shaves and more stropping.
And it's incredibly sharp, perhaps too sharp - it has delivered a two pass BBS
It seems the case honing has created a secondary bevel since in the case it hones at a different angle to flat on the stones.
So now the new Rolls is really starting to take shape!
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I find it very interesting that I can hone these exactly the same way I a straight and they give different results, have very different feels to them. I still do not have the Rolls blades shaving as smoothly as my straights but it is just a matter of time and finding the right combo of abrasives. There is a learning curve with the razor setups as well but I believe that is a smaller factor than the razor edge.
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