Looking For Descriptions Of Authentic 1950's Shaving Techniques From Those Who Did It. Gents Over 80, I am Asking You!

[frogman1821]

I do have one comment on a theme I see here, “we” meaning people who enjoy this as a hobby didn’t invent the multiple pass shave as has been stated elsewhere, my dad taught me to do 2 passes and it seems almost everyone else is the same, maybe 1 pass and touch ups or 2 passes even some 3. But I think this idea that the all the old timers only did one pass and done has been debunked. I do think we invented the idea of a 30 minute luxury shave at home though. My dad can do two passes in about 5 minutes flat, I spend that much time just getting the water the right temperature…..

 

[Lane101]

I do have one comment on a theme I see here, “we” meaning people who enjoy this as a hobby didn’t invent the multiple pass shave as has been stated elsewhere, my dad taught me to do 2 passes and it seems almost everyone else is the same, maybe 1 pass and touch ups or 2 passes even some 3. But I think this idea that the all the old timers only did one pass and done has been debunked. I do think we invented the idea of a 30 minute luxury shave at home though. My dad can do two passes in about 5 minutes flat, I spend that much time just getting the water the right temperature…..

Hi Frogman, I did some in-depth research on this last year (link below). You are right that many shavers historically used a second pass though often just a single pass was used. One pass was looked at as the standard shave with an additional pass if an extra close shave was desired. This is even documented in professional barbering manuals.

One clear conclusion from the research is that the supposedly standard three pass shave is a much more recent invention often touted via the internet from those looking to sell more shaving products. Bottom line we should use however many passes we like to deliver our preferred shave.

Link to shaving history research on number of shave passes:

How Did the Three Pass Shave Originate? One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically.

Curious as to the origination of today's recommended three pass DE shave with, across and against the grain? Is anyone familiar with the basis for this? My attempt to research the topic hasn't found any historical basis for this beyond the more recent posts and videos from DE shavers who...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[frogman1821]

Hi Frogman, I did some in-depth research on this last year (link below). You are right that many shavers historically used a second pass though often just a single pass was used. One pass was looked at as the standard shave with an additional pass if an extra close shave was desired. This is even documented in professional barbering manuals.

One clear conclusion from the research is that the supposedly standard three pass shave is a much more recent invention often touted via the internet from those looking to sell more shaving products. Bottom line we should use however many passes we like to deliver our preferred shave.

Link to shaving history research on number of shave passes:

How Did the Three Pass Shave Originate? One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically.

Curious as to the origination of today's recommended three pass DE shave with, across and against the grain? Is anyone familiar with the basis for this? My attempt to research the topic hasn't found any historical basis for this beyond the more recent posts and videos from DE shavers who...

www.badgerandblade.com

Yes I agree, it’s just I have seen people argue to no end on forums and other social media about this and it’s clearly not the case.

 

[Alex Jr]

What a nice thread. I wish it had 30 pages.

 

[VBH37118]

Hi Frogman, I did some in-depth research on this last year (link below). You are right that many shavers historically used a second pass though often just a single pass was used. One pass was looked at as the standard shave with an additional pass if an extra close shave was desired. This is even documented in professional barbering manuals.

One clear conclusion from the research is that the supposedly standard three pass shave is a much more recent invention often touted via the internet from those looking to sell more shaving products. Bottom line we should use however many passes we like to deliver our preferred shave.

Link to shaving history research on number of shave passes:

How Did the Three Pass Shave Originate? One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically.

Curious as to the origination of today's recommended three pass DE shave with, across and against the grain? Is anyone familiar with the basis for this? My attempt to research the topic hasn't found any historical basis for this beyond the more recent posts and videos from DE shavers who...

www.badgerandblade.com

You hit the nail right on the head, the internet has become gospel. More passes means more blades used and more soap and cream used, bottom line vendors earn more money. My grandfather used a straight razor and bar soap, one pass and maybe going over a few spots.

 

[Spy Car]

Since 65 will do.

My memories are of my father, whose shaving techniques when I was a kid in the early-60s seem like they'd been "solidified" during WWII, when he was a fighter pilot serving in the US Navy, and then the elite USMC air corps, in the Pacific. He flew an F4U Corsair.

Dad may not have had a super "dense" beard--more medium density--but what there was was very wiry and scratchy. He was a man who liked to look sharp. He wore well-fitting suits from Brooks Brothers and from Carroll & Company, which drew on English and American (Ivy League) styling, with a hint of Beverly Hills elegance. Classic gentlemen's clothing.

But while Dad seemed willing to spend money on fine clothes, the same purse seemed closed when it came to extravagant shaving products.

Dad used a Gillette Superspeed, which was good, but for "lather," he'd run a dampened bar of plain old white Ivory Soap across his face, and then he'd do a bit of "face lathering" using his well-wetted hand as his "brush." That's it.

A man of means and a man of culture, a man who was highly respected in his field, and his shave technique was built on a lather of Ivory Soap rubbed in with his hands. He did not want to hear from his little boy, who had seen ads for Foamy (et al) on TV.

His shaves tended to be pretty fast and furious. Not infrequently, a bit bloody as well. Dots of toilet paper, soaking up the blood from nicks and weepers seemed like a fairly regular part of shaving.

Dad did like to keep the razor fairly hot and wet (he'd keep a bowl of hot water in the sink). I also remember him making (what seemed at the time excessive) facial contortions, which allowed him to mow down the tough razor-wire.

Dad got close, clean shaves. Not sure entirely how many passes that took, but he wasn't doing one-pass shaves.

Bill

 

[VBH37118]

Since 65 will do.

My memories are of my father, whose shaving techniques when I was a kid in the early-60s seem like they'd been "solidified" during WWII, when he was a fighter pilot serving in the US Navy, and then the elite USMC air corps, in the Pacific. He flew an F4U Corsair.

Dad may not have had a super "dense" beard--more medium density--but what there was was very wiry and scratchy. He was a man who liked to look sharp. He wore well-fitting suits from Brooks Brothers and from Carroll & Company, which drew on English and American (Ivy League) styling, with a hint of Beverly Hills elegance. Classic gentlemen's clothing.

But while Dad seemed willing to spend money on fine clothes, the same purse seemed closed when it came to extravagant shaving products.

Dad used a Gillette Superspeed, which was good, but for "lather," he'd run a dampened bar of plain old white Ivory Soap across his face, and then he'd do a bit of "face lathering" using his well-wetted hand as his "brush." That's it.

A man of means and a man of culture, a man who was highly respected in his field, and his shave technique was built on a lather of Ivory Soap rubbed in with his hands. He did not want to hear from his little boy, who had seen ads for Foamy (et al) on TV.

His shaves tended to be pretty fast and furious. Not infrequently, a bit bloody as well. Dots of toilet paper, soaking up the blood from nicks and weepers seemed like a fairly regular part of shaving.

Dad did like to keep the razor fairly hot and wet (he'd keep a bowl of hot water in the sink). I also remember him making (what seemed at the time excessive) facial contortions, which allowed him to mow down the tough razor-wire.

Dad got close, clean shaves. Not sure entirely how many passes that took, but he wasn't doing one-pass shaves.

Bill

Very nice story, he served our country well

 

[Alum Ladd]

Beginning to suspect the frequent reference to 'touch ups' in accounts would probably mean a second pass in reality.

Pretty sure touch up is a modern term.

So probably a WTG 'primary' pass and a second, arguably most likely ATG or a hybrid ATG/XTG as a second, or 'touch up' pass, depending on shaver habits and knowledge of beard growth.

Again, 'beard mapping' was and is an instinctive thing, and not some modern creation befitting a name, although evidence has been shown that it was tought to barbers in very early 20th century instruction guides.

Also the carbon steel blades of the 40's and 50's in terms of comfort and efficiency would have demanded the most efficient yet economic number and direction of passes. Also economically. Blades were not cheap as they are now. In fact they were the most expensive component of a shave. More expensive or the same as contemporary fusion cartridges allowing for the buying power of the period of the average mans income.

This would require some thought and experience using the blades of the time. I doubt 'one and done' was a thing. They were probably used several times.

All this was just 'known' to shavers of the period, and is unrecorded, even in explaining to young witnesses.

You just had to experience it and figure it out for yourself.

This holds true to this day on B&B and all other shaving forums, except we have created a language for it, and express it.

 

[Spy Car]

Very nice story, he served our country well

Almost too well.

He survived a miracle rescue-at-sea, at dusk, during the worst typhoon of the war, with the rescuing destroyer, the USS Lansdowne taking 38 degree rolls (far beyond the ship's rating), and with my Dad having broken several vertebrae upon impact.

He refused morphine. When the X-Rays came back, showing the broken back, evidently the legennd of the "tough SOB Marine" on board grew. Of course, my dad went to the Naval Academy and was a naval aviator first. He was proud of both services.

Lost a lot of friends and squadron-mates.

He was a great man. My father was absolutely my hero.

Thanks!

Bill

 

[VBH37118]

Beginning to suspect the frequent reference to 'touch ups' in accounts would probably mean a second pass in reality.

Pretty sure touch up is a modern term.

So probably a WTG 'primary' pass and a second, arguably most likely ATG or a hybrid ATG/XTG as a second, or 'touch up' pass, depending on shaver habits and knowledge of beard growth.

Again, 'beard mapping' was and is an instinctive thing, and not some modern creation befitting a name, although evidence has been shown that it was tought to barbers in very early 20th century instruction guides.

Also the carbon steel blades of the 40's and 50's in terms of comfort and efficiency would have demanded the most efficient yet economic number and direction of passes. Also economically. Blades were not cheap as they are now. In fact they were the most expensive component of a shave. More expensive or the same as contemporary fusion cartridges allowing for the buying power of the period of the average mans income.

This would require some thought and experience using the blades of the time. I doubt 'one and done' was a thing. They were probably used several times.

This was probably just 'known' to shavers of the period, and is unrecorded, even in explaining to young witnesses.

You just had to experience it and figure it out for yourself.

This holds true to this day on B&B and all other shaving forums, except we have created a language for it, and express it.

When my father taught me to shave around 1971 he swore by beard mapping and cold water shaves

 

[wlshephard]

What a nice thread. I wish it had 30 pages.

I second that!

 

[slimshavy]

Beginning to suspect the frequent reference to 'touch ups' in accounts would probably mean a second pass in reality.

Pretty sure touch up is a modern term.

Going back to Zooey, Salinger doesn't use the term touch-ups but mentions that Zooey strategically relathers portions of his face for his second pass.

This would require some thought and experience using the blades of the time. I doubt 'one and done' was a thing. They were probably used several times.

Here, it's mentioned that Zooey changes out a blade in the razor after it had only been used once before. Clearly, it's noted because it's unusual behavior: he throws out a perfectly good blade because he's distracted or forgetful or whatever you choose to read into the character, but probably not because he's a stickler about having the closest possible shave.

 

[Haebar]

My dad would be 106 if he were still around today. He always shaved with a Gillette DE safety razor and when I was old enough to take interest in it, he used Gillette foamy in a can. He would always lather his face with small amount of hand soap first, just enough to make a watery, soapy layer. He said that the water did the work and the soap held it in place and made it slicker. Immediately after that, he would put on a small amount of the Gillette foamy and spread it out where he was going to shave and rub it in. He never used more than a golfball-sized glob of foam for each shave. He could make a can of foam last for months. He only shaved one pass and he was done. He always had a good shave though. He used Gillette blue blades. I can't remember what aftershave he used. My dad never grew a beard or mustache that I know of.

 

[Lane101]

Beginning to suspect the frequent reference to 'touch ups' in accounts would probably mean a second pass in reality.

Pretty sure touch up is a modern term.

So probably a WTG 'primary' pass and a second, arguably most likely ATG or a hybrid ATG/XTG as a second, or 'touch up' pass, depending on shaver habits and knowledge of beard growth.

Again, 'beard mapping' was and is an instinctive thing, and not some modern creation befitting a name, although evidence has been shown that it was tought to barbers in very early 20th century instruction guides.

Also the carbon steel blades of the 40's and 50's in terms of comfort and efficiency would have demanded the most efficient yet economic number and direction of passes. Also economically. Blades were not cheap as they are now. In fact they were the most expensive component of a shave. More expensive or the same as contemporary fusion cartridges allowing for the buying power of the period of the average mans income.

This would require some thought and experience using the blades of the time. I doubt 'one and done' was a thing. They were probably used several times.

All this was just 'known' to shavers of the period, and is unrecorded, even in explaining to young witnesses.

You just had to experience it and figure it out for yourself.

This holds true to this day on B&B and all other shaving forums, except we have created a language for it, and express it.

Hi, you may be right on touch ups depending on how each of us defines the terms. In my case I define a pass a lathering and shaving my entire face one time. Touch ups are a partial pass where I only shave part of my face. Usually areas where the shave is not as smooth/complete as desired.

The way carbon blades would rapidly deteriorate via corrosion after an initial shave removed the protective coatings from the edge would have required a lot of extra care starting with the second shave. Added roughness might have required a different blade angle for just a DFS versus BBS on first use. Also skin may have been only able to take a single pass from a rougher corroded blade.

 

[Alum Ladd]

The way carbon blades would rapidly deteriorate via corrosion after an initial shave removed the protective coatings from the edge would have required a lot of extra care starting with the second shave. Added roughness might have required a different blade angle for just a DFS versus BBS on first use. Also skin may have been only able to take a single pass from a rougher corroded blade.

As an interesting footnote to that, in something I recently found out, was that DE razors were rationed in the US from 1942.

The War Production Board limited blade purchases to 4 a month beginning on the 25th March 1942.

Washington, not Paris, dictated fashion during World War II with rationing and restrictions - Newspaper Columns by Jim Blount - https://sites.google.com/a/lanepl.org/jbcols/home/2015-articles/washington-not-paris-dictated-fashion-during-world-war-ii-with-rationing-and-restrictions

So one carbon blade would have to do a week.

 

[Lockback]

As an interesting footnote to that, in something I recently found out, was that DE razors were rationed in the US from 1942.

The War Production Board limited blade purchases to 4 a month beginning on the 25th March 1942.

So one carbon blade would have to do a week.

That is fascinating. My grandfather, who was a man of very few words, used to talk about rationing occasionally. Because he was a surgeon, his rations were more generous than probably the average citizen's. But everything was rationed.

 

[TJT]

My first shave was in 1964. My parents gave me a Gillette Fatboy, a mug with a puck of Williams soap, a tuck of Gillette Blue blades and a cheap boar brush. My dad worked nights and I rarely got to watch him shave so I had no real instructions. I set the razor at 9 and went at it. Two passes and some blood, but it didn’t take long for me to achieve bloodless shaves. I never tried to get BBS but was happy with a close shave. That Fatboy was the only razor I owned for 30 years.
Although I didn’t get to watch my father, I can remember in the 1950’s sitting on the edge of the tub at my grandparents and watching my grandfather. He shaved with brushless lather and honed used blades by rubbing them around inside a shot glass. He only did a single pass, but shaved twice a day, before going to work and before dinner.

 

[blethenstrom]

As an interesting footnote to that, in something I recently found out, was that DE razors were rationed in the US from 1942.

The War Production Board limited blade purchases to 4 a month beginning on the 25th March 1942.

Washington, not Paris, dictated fashion during World War II with rationing and restrictions - Newspaper Columns by Jim Blount - https://sites.google.com/a/lanepl.org/jbcols/home/2015-articles/washington-not-paris-dictated-fashion-during-world-war-ii-with-rationing-and-restrictions

So one carbon blade would have to do a week.

Better keep some oil on those blades!

 

[Alum Ladd]

That is fascinating. My grandfather, who was a man of very few words, used to talk about rationing occasionally. Because he was a surgeon, his rations were more generous than probably the average citizen's. But everything was rationed.

He would have had exactly the same as everyone else in terms of foods, clothing etc.

As a medical man he was entitled to an extra petrol (gas) allowance, and an extra tyre a year.

I began reading about US and other countries rationing in WW2 a few years ago. It was quite tough compared to pre-war, but was far far better than the UK ration.

Fascinating stuff.

Here is a detailed summary, but a quick read.
Food Rationing on the World War II Home Front (U.S. National Park Service) - https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/food-rationing-on-the-world-war-ii-home-front.htm

And for non food items
Rationing of Non-Food Items on the World War II Home Front (U.S. National Park Service) - https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/rationing-of-non-food-items-on-the-world-war-ii-home-front.htm

 

[Lockback]

He would have had exactly the same as everyone else in terms of foods, clothing etc.

As a medical man he was entitled to an extra petrol (gas) allowance, and an extra tyre a year.

I began reading about US and other countries rationing in WW2 a few years ago. It was quite tough compared to pre-war, but was far far better than the UK ration.

Fascinating stuff.

Here is a detailed summary, but a quick read.
Food Rationing on the World War II Home Front (U.S. National Park Service) - https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/food-rationing-on-the-world-war-ii-home-front.htm

And for non food items
Rationing of Non-Food Items on the World War II Home Front (U.S. National Park Service) - https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/rationing-of-non-food-items-on-the-world-war-ii-home-front.htm

I do remember him saying he got extra gas (petrol) allowance.
Great stuff! Thanks, Simon, I'll check the links you provided.
Your Friend Across The Pond,
Dan