Is this worth restoring?

[kayvee]

Hi, I got a set of ebay beaters (SRs) to try my hand at honing. On getting my hands on two of these, however, I'm leaning more to restore them fully.

One is a Bismarck made by Ludwig Baer (Solingen, Germany) with bone scales. Another is a D.B. Special made by Wm. Dueltgen (New Jersey) with either bone or celluloid scales. Unfortunately, both of them have cracked scales (one of my own making). The blades seem in solid condition with no visible (under magnification) rust or pitting. Seeing the condition of the blades I'm tempted to either get them re-scaled professionally in similar scales or do them myself. Both are between 5/8 and 11/16.

a) are they worth re-scaling professionally? How much would this even cost? Who can do such a thing (USA)?
I looked into Maggards - their services are reasonable, but they have limited set of replacement scales. Razor Emporium seems to have only acrylic scales and cost is $$

b) Should I try to do this on my own? I tried my hand at changing scales on two other razors and frankly disappointed in myself. I can (nay should) ask for more help if I try this on my own.

Are there other options? Perhaps get a set of Dovo replacement scales? A set seems to run for $35 on the bay, but they're acrylic not bone.

 

[kayvee]

Just to clarify, I'm not looking for worth in terms of reselling. Rather, these are my criteria to move forward with replacement scales
a) see if these models are known to reasonably hold an edge and will serve - so replacing the scales will have purpose
b) can I get them done at a reasonable cost and/or go it on my own?

If the above doesn't work, I'll put them to their original use - try my hand at honing.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

The Bismarck is a well-respected brand, I haven't heard of the other but it looks decent from here. So, yes. I think they're worth rescaling. You can certainly make new bone scales (blanks can be bought from Maggard, Griffith, or many knife shops) but there is a little learning curve. You could buy premade acrylic scales for now, hone them, and see how you like the razors before you invest a lot of time in crafting your own, or paying someone else to do it.

 

[Legion]

I don't think they are valuable enough to pay someone else to fix, but the blades are in good shape, and will work well. I recommend you try it yourself.

If the current scales are broken anyway you have nothing to lose but a bit of time. Even if you bollox it up you can always have them rescaled later. Give it a shot.

 

[duke762]

They look nicer than a lot of the beaters I usually work on. DIY is the only way to go.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Nice razors but not especially collectable. They would not be worth the cost of having professionally rescaled unless they had sentimental value.

DIY is the best choice, there are many good posts on making and replacing scales. Done properly it is some work, add the cost of material, restoring the blade, expertise and you quickly see why pro replacement costs are where they are.

Google (How to make a traditional set of horn scales ... the way I do it.) for an excellent step by step photo tutorial on making and re-scaling a straight razor. Horn is inexpensive and an easy material to work, you can do it all easily with just hand tools. A bandsaw and belt sander will speed up the process but not required.

Take your time and follow Karl J’s directions especially design, (I would copy the existing scales) especially thickness and pivot shape. Thick scales both scale thickness and width at the pivot will make honing and stropping awkward.

It’s all about design for good looking, functional scales.

 

[kayvee]

I’ve read that bone is particularly smelly to work with. How bad is it in practice? Should I just focus on using acrylics (which were also smelly), or is it bearable if I wear a regular mask?

 

[FarmerTan]

I’ve read that bone is particularly smelly to work with. How bad is it in practice? Should I just focus on using acrylics (which were also smelly), or is it bearable if I wear a regular mask?

Bone is a lot like burning hair in my experience. Is it the Keratin? Not sure.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Horn doesn't smell great either, but I think bone is worse. I wear a mask regardless, for acrylic too.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Yes, wear a mask to avoid breathing the dust and point a fan across your face, blowing dust away from you, dust collection also helps if using machinery. If sanding and shaping by hand not so much of an issue. Horn can easily be shaped by scraping and finish hand sanded.

The smell is not that bad, horn I have gotten used to.

Bone & antler are hard and can get sharp enough to cut you which can make it difficult to work.

Learn to make scales on easy to work materials, plastics or horn, once you have mastered the technique then try bone or antler. I buy Antler from Home outlet stores, sold for dog chews inexpensively, just make sure they are at least 6 inch long. They are pricey at pet stores.

 

[J B Addis]

I’ve read that bone is particularly smelly to work with. How bad is it in practice? Should I just focus on using acrylics (which were also smelly), or is it bearable if I wear a regular mask?

You get used to it pretty quickly, especially with a mask on. It's not a pleasant smell but it's really not that offensive, just sort of sour and musky. If you're making a lot of dust, more than polishing a set of scales, wearing a hat and an overshirt while you work or taking a shower afterward might be in order, but it's not like mucking out a barn or field dressing game. Running a shopvac for dust extraction while machine sanding will keep the smell from being scattered all over your shop. It's, as I said, really not so bad though.

Those razors are in easily fixable condition. If you don't feel like making scales yourself, I'd be tempted to find some cheap razors with broken or worn out blades on ebay for donor scales, less expensive than new made ones and all you have to worry about is pinning. Just make sure you aren't getting anything with cel-rot, which isn't difficult to avoid.

 

[kayvee]

I found a set of old scales someone had cleaned up. Not sure of material, but definitely feels to match the period. Will see how usable the scales are once I get them in hand.

 

[Rob72]

I would be trying to repair your scales. Using a thin cutting wheel, perpendicular to the rivet head, you can dremel those heads flat. With a good backer (cutting board or pine block with a 3/16" hole), you can gently tap the rivets out. Since the brass rivet is pretty soft, I've usually found them to be slightly bent or swelled between the scales, so I usually turn the top, freed, scale away after tapping the rivet through, then cutting the rivet down close to the inside of the opposite side scale, dressing the cut-off stub lightly with a file to ensure no burrs will catch, then driving it out with the punch.

After removing the second rivet, I use superglue to bond the broken sections. Let it dry 24 hours, then sand down, starting with 200 grit, down to 600 or 1200, depending on the look & feel you want. I then remake & reset the rivets. Some people use screws, but that is not my preference; I use the 1/16" brass rod, available from Ace Hardware, Hobby Lobby, etc., and a small jewelers' peening hammer.