Found these as a set on the bay and made a offer and it was accepted, I know we don't generally advertise prices, I need to learn the honing process so I figured this would get me started and for the price I paid I thought it was a bargain.
Hope I did ok on these ?
- Thread starter Jnatcat
- Start date
Looks like a nice kit. Congrats!
We're allowed to discuss buy it now or completed auction prices and even post a link if we'd like. I can also talk about the prices of items at the various vendors or what I picked up at the local antique store for a deal.
I think we can even discuss for example what a particular razor will sell for as long as were not talking about a specific razor. For example saying something like "+you can find a Gillette New on the auction site for around $25 bucks" seems to be ok. Though that may be a grey area, but I haven't seen it enforced as you're not actually giving an appraisal but only some helpful guidance.
The main things to avoid with the price thing is someone promoting their own live auction to bump up the price as well as people coming here for the sole purpose of getting free appraisals so that an item can be resold.
When someone with four posts asks what a razor is worth it's kinda obvious why they're here.
So from my understanding, and what I'm getting to with my long winded ramblings, is that I believe you are able to post the price you paid if you'd like to without breaking the rules.
I think we can even discuss for example what a particular razor will sell for as long as were not talking about a specific razor. For example saying something like "+you can find a Gillette New on the auction site for around $25 bucks" seems to be ok. Though that may be a grey area, but I haven't seen it enforced as you're not actually giving an appraisal but only some helpful guidance.
The main things to avoid with the price thing is someone promoting their own live auction to bump up the price as well as people coming here for the sole purpose of getting free appraisals so that an item can be resold.
When someone with four posts asks what a razor is worth it's kinda obvious why they're here.
So from my understanding, and what I'm getting to with my long winded ramblings, is that I believe you are able to post the price you paid if you'd like to without breaking the rules.
- Thread starter
- #5
I am sure I can figure out which ones are which by those that are marked but those that are not marked I don't have a clue and have never honed a single straight unless you count me running my straights over my Apache strata finisher alittle bit, so this is going to be my maiden voyage into honing.
The seller told me he would ensure all stones were flat before sending them which I thought was nice of him to do so.
- Thread starter
- #6
That is a nice way to start out. You are dialed in. That JNat looks great. I'm curious how hard it is. Post a picture of the Chu slurry. You might be able to get quicker heavier slurry with a DMT or Atoma. You should test both and see which produces the fastest results coming off the 8k. Lately I have been using just my Shobu with DMT and it is versatile depending on slurry thickness. I think Alex likes this approach sometimes too..
Ok, Naniwa Superstones are marked with grit 1000 and 5000, the white brick is a Suehiro Cerax 8000 grit, the small white one should be a mikawa (most likely chu) nagura to create a grinding paste on the other one, which is a jnat i suppose (it also can be used to clean up the synthie hone, works good).
Greets Sebastian.
Greets Sebastian.
- Thread starter
- #9
What is the approx grit of the jnat if that is what it is, seller did not know, was thinking it might be a AS but said was not sure.
The green box is a Shapton 2k Pro as well. There also appears to be another Shapton box, but I can't make out the grit on that one. I think you scored big time. 6 hones plus a couple rubbers for $115 is awesome! Especially as they are all quite nice stones. I love my Shapton 2k.
- Thread starter
- #12
Here are a few more pics from the seller, as soon as I get them I will clean them up and post individual pics and we can go from there and all you honemeisters can maybe share some knowledge to this ignorant boy who really likes using a straight on some basic skills to maintain what I have, I would love to be able to take a totally dull razor and put a nice bevel on it and move thru the progression of what I am going to have and have a keen edge to shave with.
Not sure I understand. Are you saying he has enough synths to setup the JNat or that the 8k is as far as he needs to go?
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Well I paid $115 so I hope I did well
I think you did very well.
I`d like to say that the Shapton 12000 would be enough for final finish. If the Jnat is alright, the 5k Naniwa would be enough as "groundwork" to start with a Nagura Slurry.
Greets Sebastian.
- Thread starter
- #16
You guys are talking way over my head, once the stones get here I will clean them up and take some pictures of each one so I know what I have and then maybe everybody can help me sort out what would be a good starting point, I kinda figured the Naniwa SS 1K can be used to set the bevel then the 5K then the Cerax 8000 followed by the Sharpton 12K, my Apache Strata then the Sharpton 16K but I know nothing except what I have read here from you guys, I have no idea where the JNat is going to fall place.
The JNat might be worth more than you paid for the entire lot. Could be a Shoubudani Asagi. You have a lot of options and will be able to compare very fine synth edges with JNat. and Apache. I'll place a bet that the 12k and 16k Shapton collect dust after you master the JNat and Apache.
I did not see a Shapton 16K in the pictures. If there is one indeed, that stone is also worth more than you paid for the lot.
- Thread starter
- #19
I have this stone.
And I have to confess that until this weekend I used it wrong.
Being called a glass-stone, I thought the glass part was the active part.
I turns out that what I thought was the backing of the glass stone is actually the stone and the glass is the backing (youtube confirmed).
This kinda explain, why I thought the Naniwa 10K scratch seem better than the Shapton 16K even though the grain size would be 1.2 microns vs. 0.9
I need to properly lap the active part of the stone and give it a spin.
I do feel stupid though.
I'd say though that the glass backing is one fast cutting stone. It might not be 0.9 microns, but it makes a great 1.5 microns or so hone.
And I have to confess that until this weekend I used it wrong.
Being called a glass-stone, I thought the glass part was the active part.
I turns out that what I thought was the backing of the glass stone is actually the stone and the glass is the backing (youtube confirmed).
This kinda explain, why I thought the Naniwa 10K scratch seem better than the Shapton 16K even though the grain size would be 1.2 microns vs. 0.9
I need to properly lap the active part of the stone and give it a spin.
I do feel stupid though.
I'd say though that the glass backing is one fast cutting stone. It might not be 0.9 microns, but it makes a great 1.5 microns or so hone.
