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Haggis! The Inside Story.

Old Hippie

Somewhere between 61 and dead
"Inside" because with haggis it's what's inside, rather than outside.

OK! We have some "haggis-curious" folks and at least one who's probably secretly all in but wants us to believe otherwise. :)

So first some context...

Setting aside dubious historical accounts (and Robert Burns' Address to a Haggis) let's just focus on the fundamentals. Haggis is somewhere between a pate and a sausage. "Pate" because it has a fair portion of liver in it, and it is cooked a fairly low temperature for a long time to set the dish. "Sausage" because it has a skin (usually) and also added ingredients that may show up in a sausage but not often in pate. Oats, specifically.

Specific ingredients are: Heart and liver, onions, oats and fat. Vegetarian options are possible and in my opinion entirely palatable. I'll be honest that I like haggis and take some care to see that it is not just something we gag down once a year with a shot of whiskey before moving on to the roast beef and potatoes. Unfortunately I have had enough versions of commercial haggis to have formed an entirely negative opinion of them. Fortunately, making your own haggis is dead easy!

Technically haggis is made with sheep's offal however if you don't live near any conveniently stealable sheep :) you may improvise with calf liver and heart. Or vegetarian options as I will (briefly) mention later. Traditional haggis also included lung tissue, but honestly in these days of diesel smoke, coal-fired power plants and other such lovelies; who wants to eat that? I've made several with authentic sheep parts and they've been fantastic. I've probably made more with other bits because some places I've lived don't run to sheep. Go with what you can get; you could even use pig or chicken hearts and livers if that's all you can find. Haggis is in the mind, not the precise execution.

The onions are plural. You will need at least three nice sized yellow onions. My old haggis guru told me, "The keyword is 'redolent.' Add enough onions."

Oats can be a bit of a conundrum. People eat a lot of them, but seem to care little for the aesthetics of taste. They're not just cheap filler, but I digress. I have been a constant gadfly to the Canadian Oat Research Centre because I keep nagging them about breeding for taste. Quaker is not your friend, here. Making haggis with rolled oats (or any other grain) is a recipe for mush. The grains should be ground not rolled. If all you can find aside from Quaker are "steel-cut" oats then that will work. The difference is that steel cut oats are cracked/cut while ground oats are...well...ground. If you're of a mind to spend money making peasant food, then look for imported Scottish or Irish oats. Bob's Red Mill used to do Scottish oats as well as steel-cut. Good brand.

And fat. Most traditional haggis would have used mutton fat. You're cutting up a sheep anyway, might as well use what you have. Mutton fat can be unpleasant to some folks due to taste and also what it's like cold. "Modern traditional" haggis typically uses lard. I have also used plant-based butter flavoured fat with success. The fat in haggis is supposed to help make the mix smooth and tasty. The amount is variable; haggis is often boiled for several hours which causes a lot of the fat to cook out, so extra is put in at the front end. There are other ways, using and losing less fat.

Inside that rather loose framework you may play as you wish. Boil up the heart, saving aside some of the broth. Boil up the liver with a chopped onion, draining away the broth. Turn your oven to 400F and put the oats in a baking dish. Toast them until they are golden and fragrant. Save aside a half-cup for another dish later. Get out your meat grinder. Run the meats through, then run three or four onions through to clean out the grinder. Put meats and onion mush into a large bowl, throw in some oats and start mixing/kneading. Add fat as needed. If it's too stiff add some broth. Add a bit of salt and a whack of pepper. Throw in a pinch of mace. A bit of rosemary.

It should be a grainy meaty mix with some onion fumes coming off. :) At this point you can stuff it loosely into a sheep's stomach or force it into a large sausage casing and sew up the ends. I prefer to make "bowl haggis" which simply requires plopping the mixture into a large bowl, covering with a tent of aluminum foil, and steaming it for an hour and a half. Note that vegetarian haggis needs less cooking. (Note that the casing is discarded. Eat the good stuff inside.)

I've made "haggis" with a lot of shredded veggies: potatoes, carrots, turnips, onion, beets, etc. I've also made a different version with plant based ground "meat." Of the two types I like the "meat" version better. You really can't go far wrong, so experiment.

That orphan half-cup of toasted oats? While you're at the store buy a nice pint of vanilla ice cream. Let it soften just a little, then turn it out into a bowl. Fold in those oats and a tablespoon of good malt whiskey. Pack back into the container and re-freeze -- this is a modernized version of Cream Crowdie and is your dessert.

Serve the haggis with Clapshot (potatoes, turnips and onions all mashed together) and a smacking ale. Tradition seems to indicate a (or several) shots of whiskey with the meal, however strong spirits dull the palate.

There ya go; Slainte Mhath! Leftovers go great in Haggis Hash for breakfast, or a nice slice cold between some whole grain bread with mayo and mustard makes a good lunch.

O.H.
 
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Nice!

I have a lot of Scottish friends and have had haggis a few times. Not really my thing, but it isnt nearly as bad as people make it out to be.
 
Wouldn’t that be a thread for @haggis ?

On a more serious note while a love pates, rillettes, Foie gras, black pudding etc. I’m very reluctant about just anything else that goes into Haggis.

And it won’t win a beauty contest either….

E2C9C077-12E9-421F-9F1B-5E075813A751.jpeg
 

The Count of Merkur Cristo

B&B's Emperor of Emojis
Chuck:
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We can get Scrapple down here (haven't tried it yet though), but I've never tried Haggis either. :001_rolle

However, to go with your wee-bit of Haggis...will you also serve 'neeps and tatties'
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1701644916788.jpeg

Chef Nick Nairn's take on a classic: Haggis w/ Neeps and Tatties Timbale

Haggis.jpg
"[Haggis:] Fair and full is your honest, jolly face, the great chieftain of the sausage race...". Robert Burns
 

CzechCzar

Use the Fat, Luke!
Nobody's yet mentioned haggis. And all that goes with it: clapshot and mushy peas. Because I can be obsessive I've had a lot of different kinds of haggis from authentic (made from sheep parts) to vegetarian. Frankly the haggis I never liked was the stuff our local highland society served for Burns Nicht. They used cheap oats and not much fat and it was like eating saltines pureed with hot dogs.

Properly done it's glorious. Those tempted to scoff are reminded that traditionally Highlanders were walking arsenals. "Behold the rustic, haggis-fed. The trembling Earth resounds his tread." -- Robert Burns

O.H.

"Inside" because with haggis it's what's inside, rather than outside.

OK! We have some "haggis-curious" folks and at least one who's probably secretly all in but wants us to believe otherwise. :)

So first some context...

Setting aside dubious historical accounts (and Robert Burns' Address to a Haggis) let's just focus on the fundamentals. Haggis is somewhere between a pate and a sausage. "Pate" because it has a fair portion of liver in it, and it is cooked a fairly low temperature for a long time to set the dish. "Sausage" because it has a skin (usually) and also added ingredients that may show up in a sausage but not often in pate. Oats, specifically.

Specific ingredients are: Heart and liver, onions, oats and fat. Vegetarian options are possible and in my opinion entirely palatable. I'll be honest that I like haggis and take some care to see that it is not just something we gag down once a year with a shot of whiskey before moving on to the roast beef and potatoes. Unfortunately I have had enough versions of commercial haggis to have formed an entirely negative opinion of them. Fortunately, making your own haggis is dead easy!

Technically haggis is made with sheep's offal however if you don't live near any conveniently stealable sheep :) you may improvise with calf liver and heart. Or vegetarian options as I will (briefly) mention later. Traditional haggis also included lung tissue, but honestly in these days of diesel smoke, coal-fired power plants and other such lovelies; who wants to eat that? I've made several with authentic sheep parts and they've been fantastic. I've probably made more with other bits because some places I've lived don't run to sheep. Go with what you can get; you could even use pig or chicken hearts and livers if that's all you can find. Haggis is in the mind, not the precise execution.

The onions are plural. You will need at least three nice sized yellow onions. My old haggis guru told me, "The keyword is 'redolent.' Add enough onions."

Oats can be a bit of a conundrum. People eat a lot of them, but seem to care little for the aesthetics of taste. They're not just cheap filler, but I digress. I have been a constant gadfly to the Canadian Oat Research Centre because I keep nagging them about breeding for taste. Quaker is not your friend, here. Making haggis with rolled oats (or any other grain) is a recipe for mush. The grains should be ground not rolled. If all you can find aside from Quaker are "steel-cut" oats then that will work. The difference is that steel cut oats are cracked/cut while ground oats are...well...ground. If you're of a mind to spend money making peasant food, then look for imported Scottish or Irish oats. Bob's Red Mill used to do Scottish oats as well as steel-cut. Good brand.

And fat. Most traditional haggis would have used mutton fat. You're cutting up a sheep anyway, might as well use what you have. Mutton fat can be unpleasant to some folks due to taste and also what it's like cold. "Modern traditional" haggis typically uses lard. I have also used plant-based butter flavoured fat with success. The fat in haggis is supposed to help make the mix smooth and tasty. The amount is variable; haggis is often boiled for several hours which causes a lot of the fat to cook out, so extra is put in at the front end. There are other ways, using and losing less fat.

Inside that rather loose framework you may play as you wish. Boil up the heart, saving aside some of the broth. Boil up the liver with a chopped onion, draining away the broth. Turn your oven to 400F and put the oats in a baking dish. Toast them until they are golden and fragrant. Save aside a half-cup for another dish later. Get out your meat grinder. Run the meats through, then run three or four onions through to clean out the grinder. Put meats and onion mush into a large bowl, throw in some oats and start mixing/kneading. Add fat as needed. If it's too stiff add some broth. Add a bit of salt and a whack of pepper. Throw in a pinch of mace. A bit of rosemary.

It should be a grainy meaty mix with some onion fumes coming off. :) At this point you can stuff it loosely into a sheep's stomach or force it into a large sausage casing and sew up the ends. I prefer to make "bowl haggis" which simply requires plopping the mixture into a large bowl, covering with a tent of aluminum foil, and steaming it for an hour and a half. Note that vegetarian haggis needs less cooking. (Note that the casing is discarded. Eat the good stuff inside.)

I've made "haggis" with a lot of shredded veggies: potatoes, carrots, turnips, onion, beets, etc. I've also made a different version with plant based ground "meat." Of the two types I like the "meat" version better. You really can't go far wrong, so experiment.

That orphan half-cup of toasted oats? While you're at the store buy a nice pint of vanilla ice cream. Let it soften just a little, then turn it out into a bowl. Fold in those oats and a tablespoon of good malt whiskey. Pack back into the container and re-freeze -- this is a modernized version of Cream Crowdie and is your dessert.

Serve the haggis with Clapshot (potatoes, turnips and onions all mashed together) and a smacking ale. Tradition seems to indicate a (or several) shots of whiskey with the meal, however strong spirits dull the palate.

There ya go; Slainte Mhath! Leftovers go great in Haggis Hash for breakfast, or a nice slice cold between some whole grain bread with mayo and mustard makes a good lunch.

O.H.
So, that was a beautiful amount of the detail. Thank you.

I'll make my questions short and sweet. Can I make this in the US? What is the best authentic recipe??
 
Vegetarian haggis ?

Who needs the short bus, bus ride?
If I identify as a vedjo or veego, sure as hell not interested in meat looking stuff, sheesh!!
 

Old Hippie

Somewhere between 61 and dead
So, that was a beautiful amount of the detail. Thank you.

You're welcome.

I'll make my questions short and sweet. Can I make this in the US? What is the best authentic recipe??

You can absolutely make this in the US! I'll check my files for a good recipe, though the broad guidelines above will get you pretty close. I'll need a little time; got other things on the run today.

O.H.
 

Old Hippie

Somewhere between 61 and dead
If I identify as a vedjo or veego, sure as hell not interested in meat looking stuff, sheesh!!

Which is exactly what I tell people when they "go vegetarian" and end up eating all kinds of "looks like and tastes like meat!" products. Sure, I'll eat a veggie burger or some plant-based deepfried breaded nuggets that kinda sorta taste like chicken. But it's more fun to go to cuisines that have vegetarian traditions and make their food.

O.H.
 

Old Hippie

Somewhere between 61 and dead
We can get Scrapple down here (haven't tried it yet though),

Mmmm...scrapple. Love it. It's a cognate of haggis, as a cultural sociologist would say. Take a bunch of cr...ummm...good food we might otherwise squeamishly throw away and make something tasty with it.


but I've never tried Haggis either. :001_rolle

Hang out here long enough and the itch will get you...

However, to go with your wee-bit of Haggis...will you also serve 'neeps and tatties'
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I see the culinary masterpiece below has the "neeps" or turnip separate from the "tatties" (man, you gotta watch autocorrect on that one!). That's one way to do it; I'm not judging. :) I prefer "clapshot" which, if made properly, sees the potatoes, turnips and some onion all cooked separately then mashed before being combined. Grumpy old cook; I put the turnips on to boil because they take longer, then add the potatoes and onions to the pot a bit later. It works.


View attachment 1758453
Chef Nick Nairn's take on a classic: Haggis w/ Neeps and Tatties Timbale

Looks like a nice snack! I wouldn't even kick about seeing that for breakfast.

Haggis.jpg
"[Haggis:] Fair and full is your honest, jolly face, the great chieftain of the sausage race...". Robert Burns

Oooh! A wild haggis!

I see Burns has been modernized. No matter. He didn't really write in Scots but we love him anyway.

Also it's more easily understandable than "Fair fa' yer honest, sonsie face, greet Chieftain o' the puddin' race! Aboon them a' ye tak yer place; painch, tripe or thairm -- weel wordie are ye o' a grace as laing's me airm."

O.H.
 
I'm not quite getting a sense of the recipe proportions yet. How much of this sausage-like stuffing is comprised of oats compared with the meat-like parts? What about spicing, are haggis supposed to be spicy? Do they use spices like sage and pepper?

Seems like a vegetarian option might include some type of legumes, like black beans, or lentils, etc. cooked in broth.

If no Scotch oats are at hand, what about toasting whole oats and grinding them in a blender? I'm guessing they should be chopped more finely than steel-cut oats.
 

Old Hippie

Somewhere between 61 and dead
Gad. I wrote a darn book. Sorry!

There are some difficulties in the way if you want to make haggis at home. Not insurmountable, but they do need to be acknowledged so we can do the best possible job.

I'm not going to spend much time on fat. If you bought the "Lipid Hypothesis" why are you even considering haggis? Just tell yourself it's good for you. :)

Oats, though: the best thing is "Scottish" oats. In quotes because you don't have to pay premium prices for oatsmeal straight from Scotland though if you wish, whatever blows your kilt up. I've referenced Bob's Red Mill, pretty widely available across the US and Canada and a product of good quality. Second best is "steel-cut" oats which are chopped instead of being ground as Scottish oats. They'll work well and I've used them when I can't source Scottish style oats. Again, Bob's Red Mill. There really is no third choice! Do not use flaked oats.

We already covered onions. :)

Organ meats are worth a couple inches of copy. "Traditional" haggis, a food of necessity, would have used heart and liver from a mature sheep, likely a pretty antique specimen considering all the good one can get from a live sheep. Particularly in the US mutton is a very polarizing topic. Even lamb comes in for the accusation of being "gamey" but that's because it doesn't taste like beefporkchicken. People even complain that turkey tastes "gamey" compared to a crate raised chicken so a pinch of salt is indicated here. :)

Because it's something most people don't eat (more for me!) it's often hard to find in many regions. I suggest you look first for lamb heart and liver -- there are more people who'll eat lamb than mutton so a butcher may have better access to it. If your butcher just shrugs, then ask for calf liver and a smallish beef heart. It'll be fine. (Calf liver because you may not believe how freekin' huge a beef liver is. Buy just what you need.) Besides, calf or lamb liver is milder flavoured if that's a consideration.

One more thing; casing. Traditionally it would have been a sheep's stomach, because you've just killed one and so you have a stomach on hand that the sheep no longer needs. Grab it fast before the dog runs off with it...

Some modern makers have been able to find a "blind stump" which is one of a cow's four stomachs. It has only one hole, so less sewing. However, the general squeamishness about organ meats extends also to most types of "innards." You can get intestines for sausage casings, but often butchers don't save the stomachs because only crazy Scots want them. I've used some artificial "summer sausage" casings and they're do-able but less than ideal. I see the example above from @Multum in parvo that is wrapped in cheesecloth. Messy but it works. As I've mentioned I tend to make it in a bowl these days, and steam it instead of boiling.

For those like @CzechCzar who'd like a recipe to follow, here y'go...

3/4 pound calf or veal liver
Small beef heart
2 cups Scottish style oatmeal
2 or 3 yellow onions
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 to 1 tsp ground pepper
1 1/2 to 2 tsp mace (or nutmeg if you don't have mace, just use a little less)
2 large pinches thyme
2 large pinches crushed rosemary
1 pound lard

Heat your oven to 400F and toast the oats in a baking dish, stirring occasionally, until they are golden brown. Remove, dump into a heat-safe bowl to cool.

Cut up liver and heart. Remove any "strings" in the heart meat. Boil liver and heart in separate pots, with a teaspoon of salt and half an onion in each pot. When done, set aside (in broth) to cool. Refrigerate overnight if you wish. When cool, save the heart broth and give the liver broth to the pets.

You can use a food processor to chop the meats (or just use a knife and a lot of time) but I recommend a meat grinder. I use a 3/16-inch plate and run the meats through, then run a couple onions through to clean out the grinder. It should have texture, not be a paste. All that can go in one bowl with the seasonings.

You can now start stirring/kneading stuff together. If you have a KitchenAid mixer it's a great tool for this, otherwise, hands and a spoon works. At this point you will "screw your courage up to the sticking point" and reach for that pound of lard. You will knead that lard into the mixture in the bowl. It's like cookie dough; use a bit of the reserved broth to make it a bit less stiff as you go.

Now get your casing. However you do that, stuff that sucker. :) Leave some room for the oats to expand; a couple-three inches is good. Get a darning needle and some cotton string and sew up the hole.

Get a large pot of water going on the stove, and put a round cake rack or roasting trivet on the bottom. Place the haggis on the rack, make sure it's covered with water and boil it for three hours. No kidding; three hours. Keep some hot water handy to top up the level as needed.

Mostly I don't really want to spend all blipping day babysitting a haggis, and getting the right casings is problematic, so I put it in a bowl that will fit in the pot. Cover the bowl with parchement and foil over that to catch the drips, and put the bowl on the rack. Make sure the water comes some distance up the side of the bowl. It is more critical to monitor the level, as there is less water than if you were boiling the haggis. Steam until done; usually around 90 minutes.

I have on occasion made it even faster by putting the bowl in a large pressure cooker and cooking it at 15 psi for 45 minutes. With some advance prepwork, this can be fast enough to make for dinner on a busy day.

Bowl haggis needs less fat because you lose less in process. My notes indicate 1/4 cup of fat, whether lard, butter, margarine or oil. Olive oil works well with the spicing. Mutton or beef tallow would work, but they're less ideal.

O.H.
 

Old Hippie

Somewhere between 61 and dead
How much of this sausage-like stuffing is comprised of oats compared with the meat-like parts? What about spicing, are haggis supposed to be spicy? Do they use spices like sage and pepper?

I'll let you refer to the recipe I posted. I think roughly equal portions of meat and oats, but it's not something I've ever thought to measure.

Seems like a vegetarian option might include some type of legumes, like black beans, or lentils, etc. cooked in broth.

It can. There are a tonne of recipes out there for vegetarian haggis. I tend to like a vegetarian haggis that is fairly close to the meat version. I like that; not much inclined to change it.

If no Scotch oats are at hand, what about toasting whole oats and grinding them in a blender? I'm guessing they should be chopped more finely than steel-cut oats.

Grinding in a blender or food processor is not all that great. Mostly it's a way to make lots of noise. :) If you can't get Scottish oats then use steel-cut or "pinhead" oats. We have a large grain crusher that I use to crack/flake grains for cooking and brewing. We also have a good flour mill that can be set wide enough to make Scottish style oats. Still, considering all the other fooling around the recipe requires, I will usually grab a bag of Bob's Red Mill.

O.H.
 
Which is exactly what I tell people when they "go vegetarian" and end up eating all kinds of "looks like and tastes like meat!" products. Sure, I'll eat a veggie burger or some plant-based deepfried breaded nuggets that kinda sorta taste like chicken. But it's more fun to go to cuisines that have vegetarian traditions and make their food.

O.H.
Do Meatatarians make meat look and taste like vegetables? hell NO! :D
 

Ad Astra

The Instigator
:lol: Our Scottish family wanted us to have a "real haggis" when we were there, so they got one and we practically had to fight the family to get any!

Never try to fly with a canned haggis. British TSA took mine away.

"What do you want with that?!"

"Bringing back for a friend."

"If you'd bring him that, you're no friend."


I bet they ate it, though.

Later made a "mock haggis" recipe with oatmeal, onions, and ... ground beef. :001_unsur


AA
 
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