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Green Soup

TexLaw

Fussy Evil Genius
This time of year, the greens really start coming in around these parts. This is a satisfying, Summer soup that still is light on the waistline and pocketbook. Of course, nothing should stop you from making it with any greens that are available, no matter what time of year.

It can be addictive, and I've found myself (on more than one occassion), making it two or three times during the week. The last iteration was with broccoli raab leaves and mustard greens that were harvested from our garden while the onions were cooking. This recipe is more a template, as it's easily adapted to whatever you might have around. It's a fun one to play with.

Green Soup – (prep/cook time: approx. 1 hour)


  • 1/4 – 1/2 cup rice (amount and type subject to preference)
  • 3 cups water (+2 tbsp, if required – see below)
  • 2 large yellow onions, chopped fairly finely or sliced fairly thinly
  • 1 bunch of “tough” greens (see below), about 1 pound, tough stems removed, chopped very coarsely if desired for handling
  • 1 bunch of “tender” greens (see below), about 1 pound, tough stems removed, chopped very coarsely if desired for handling
  • 1 pound of mushrooms, cleaned, stemmed, and sliced (about ½”)
  • 4 cups vegetable broth, divided
  • 1 tsp salt, divided
  • 2 tbsp of your favorite sauté oil, but nothing too strongly flavored
  • 1 tbsp something acidic (see below)
  • 1/8 – 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper, as desired
  • Extra-virgin olive oil and (if needed) more “something acidic” for garnish

1. Heat the oil over high heat in a skillet large enough to hold the onions and mushrooms until oil is shimmering. Add the onions and ¼ tsp salt. Stir frequently until onions just start to brown (few minutes). Reduce heat to medium-low, and add mushrooms (add 2 tbsp water if you leave out mushrooms). Stir frequently until the skillet cools down, and then occasionally until onions and mushrooms are greatly reduced and onions have deep caramel color. If desired, cover the skillet—the onions will take longer to caramelize, but you won’t have to stir as often. Takes about 30 minutes, depending on stove and whether onions are covered.

2. While onions and mushrooms are cooking, add the water, rice, and remaining ¾ tsp salt to a 6-8 quart soup pot or Dutch oven. Cover, bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer (this step can be done in a smaller saucepan, if desired). Add small amounts of water if needed to keep the pot from drying out. Cook for at least 10 minutes, but do not worry about overcooking.

3. Once onions and mushrooms are done, add 3 cups of broth to the soup pot (and rice/water mixture if cooked in smaller saucepan) and 1 cup of broth to skillet. Transfer all skillet contents to the soup pot, scraping all fond from bottom. Return to simmer.

4. Add “tough” greens to pot, stir in, and simmer until just wilted. Add “tender” greens, stir in, and simmer until just wilted (time varies according to greens selected—add greens in handfuls, if required due to pot size). Simmer “tough” greens longer for milder flavor.

5. Puree soup in pot with immersion blender (or in standing blender or food processor, if required) until smooth and uniform. Stir in cayenne and the “something acidic,” adding more if desired (but better to take it easy here). Serve hot or cold, with drizzle of olive oil and, if desired, another splash of “something acidic.” Add salt, if needed.

Notes:

1. “Tough” greens can be mature kale, chard, mustard, collard, turnip, or similar greens, or even bok choy or cabbage. “Tender” greens can be spinach, arugula, baby “tough” greens, or even some manner of lettuce. Choose whatever greens you desire and whatever looks good. Mix and match. Use all “tough” or all “tender,” if desired, or any combination you desire. Amounts are fairly loose, as soup always can be thinned a little, if desired. Go nuts, and have fun.

2. “Something acidic” can be lemon juice (about my favorite), lime juice, or some manner of vinegar. It’s best to keep things light and bright, as the idea is to balance out the depth and “low” notes from the other ingredients. Balsamic vinegar sounds tempting, but it doesn’t always work—too deep and complex. Rice wine and red wine vinegar work fine. Another favorite is pepper-infused white vinegar. Keep a very light hand, here, and keep it simple. You want the greens to shine through, not the accents.

3. You want the rice cooked, but don’t worry about overcooking it. It’s there to add a little substance to the soup, that’s all. Use what you like. More adds more substance; less adds less. I tend to use brown rice, since that’s what we usually have around, but anything will do.

4. Feel free to add anything else that floats your boat as an accent. A few poblanos, serranos, or jalapenos have worked well, but consider skillet and pot size when adding anything with significant volume. As far as herbs and spices go, some good ones are rosemary, thyme, cumin, turmeric, paprika, fenugreek, black pepper, and nutmeg. One thing that doesn’t seem to work is garlic, unless its roasted. Keep a very light hand, here, and keep it simple. You want the greens to shine through, not the accents.

5. Finely chopped, toasted walnuts or toasted, slivered almonds work well, but more as a garnish. I’ve toyed with the idea of a little grated Parmigiano Reggiano or pecorino romano on top, as well, but I haven’t actually tried it, yet.
 
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