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Changing Shutter Speed

I have a Canon PowerShot SD600 Elph Digital and I've been trying to take pictures without the flash, and they are coming out blurry because I don't thave a tripod and the shutter speed is too slow.

Does anyone know how to change the shutter on this model camera or if it's even possible?

Thanks all!
 
actually the blurring is more likely due to motion, look for a little hand with the circle and dash through it, like the no U-Turn sign except with a hand, and try turning that one

if you want to change the shutter speed, you'll have to go through the menu most likely, unfortunately that differs from manufacturer to manufacturer and i dont have any canons on hand to double check
 
Um..Do you have an instruction manual? If not, Canon online would have one in PDF format. Unless it's completely point and shoot, taking it off of Program and setting the Tv(time value) would do the trick. On Canon cameras when you adjust the Tv it automatically compensates the Av(aperture value). Same if you adjust Av first. If you make the shutter too fast and there's not enough light you'll get a crummy picture. Like ZiggyDeath said above, watch for the warnings the camera is trying to send regarding "shakiness".
 
Tim, I'm not familiar with that camera specifically, but you should be able to adjust the ISO to a higher number. It may be at 50 and if you moved it up to 400 or 800, you'd be able to shoot in lower light -- the faster shutter speed should happen automatically.

Keep us posted.

Bruce
 

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I don't think you can manually adjust the shutter on the SD600, but Canon sometimes has this feature buried deep within the menus.
ry upping the ISO (which will unfortunately increase the noise).
 
According to dpreview and steves digi-cams, the camera has a manual mode (everything is completely adjustable). This should all be covered in your manual. Reducing the ISO will reduce the image quality. You can't really handhold anything less than 1/60 or thereabouts if you do change the shutter speed. Look into changing the lighting, shooting it outside or similar as well.

Dennis
 

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That's why optical image stabilization is the next (latest?) big thing in cameras.
 
Nothing will ever replace a decent tripod though (even if you used a pile of books or something to prop the camera up and help hold it still).
You could also try setting the camera on "sports" mode (usually designated by a running man icon or something similar) to force it into a higher shutter speed.
 
A tabletop tripod is a good investment in shaving photography. You can pick one up for around 10 bucks or so. They don't have to be sturdy for your particular camera. Put is on the small tripod and use the self timer so you can remove your finger before the shutter fires.
 
I agree that it's shakiness but that's why I wanted to speed up the shutter speed so the shaking wouldn't have as much of an effect.

changing the exposure speed affects the lighting of the picture

most digital camera have an anti-shaky feature, which i described as a open palm with a circle and then a strike through it, meaning that the lighting will be the same but won't be blurred

but even if you do speed it up, it still may exhibit signs of blurriness :mad3:
 
IF you find out how to adjust your shutter speed, and I'm not sure you can on that camera Tim, there's a general rule that will help you determine if it's "fast" enough. The shutter speed will need to be equal to or higher than the recripocal of the focal length of the lens.

Example. If you're shooting a 100mm lens, your shutter speed would need to be 1/100th of a second or greater. If you racked out to 200mm on your zoom lens, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/200th or higher. Some claim to be able to hand hold below those limits but I sure can't. I'm a big fan of image stabilization on my camera/lenses.

You can also achieve a higher shutter speed by increasing your ISO from say 100 to 800. That comes at a cost of loss of quality but it really won't matter much for internet pix.

Good luck.
 

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Jerry's inverse of the focal lenght = longest shutter speed rule is spot on, but I think it's even more important with these little sub-compacts. Their small size and tiny mass makes them very prone to shaking.
 
Jerry's inverse of the focal lenght = longest shutter speed rule is spot on, but I think it's even more important with these little sub-compacts. Their small size and tiny mass makes them very prone to shaking.

Especially if you have a half empty double rocks glass of bourbon in your other hand...:laugh:
 
One other thought occurred to me. While using digital cameras we have a tendency to hold the camera out at arms length and compose the picture while looking at the lcd screen. By shutting off the screen and holding the camera closer to the body and composing the picture through the viewfinder, shakiness diminishes and you can actually prop the camera against your face for support. This is how we always took pictures in the pre-digital age.
 
There should be a shutter priority mode on the camera, frequestly designated with an "S" to distinguish it from the "A" which can be aperture priority but may also be auto. I concur with the recommendation on the ISO. Boost it to about 200, much more than this will result in grainy pictures. This may not be bad if its the only way to get the shot.

The other suggestion I have is to use the shutter timer release. This is the feature you use when you want to take a shot of yourself and you snap the shot and it goes off in say 2 to 10 seconds. By using this feature you can snap the photo, then brace it against something-anything. At least then you will have a moment lapse from the time you pressure the shutter release which often causes the blur itself.

I sometimes do this and place the camera on a table or stationary object. Compose the shot and then press the shutter release then let go and let the timer do the job from there.

Good luck and let us know what you finally settle on.
 
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