Back from the dead

[Whilliam]

Many months ago, I lost a BM940 Osborne. It was a beauty, a Blade HQ Exclusive with natural G10 scales and an M4 blade.

A few days ago--on my birthday, no less--a friend found it.

The knife was fully impacted in the dried mud of my friend's front lawn.

That's the good news. The bad news is that M4 steel is very prone to corrosion, and months and months in the ground have taken a toll on the blade and the action.

So over the next few weeks, I'll be disassembling, cleaning, sanding and polishing the knife to bring it back to life. I plan to post my progress (if any) here. Naturally, any hints or advice that you can offer would be most welcome, indeed.

Here's the knife as it was found:

Today, I'll disassemble the knife and see what horrors lie within. Then I'll give everything a good soak in TSI-321. I'll also order some new phosphor bronze washers, as well as new "Ω" springs. Then it will be on to the Dremel tool's wire wheel where appropriate.

Stay tuned. And if anyone has any advice to add, please do.

 

[ajkel64]

I have no advice to offer but I am tuned in to the restoration process. Good luck with it all.

 

[Whilliam]

I have no advice to offer but I am tuned in to the restoration process. Good luck with it all.

Thank you!

 

[HoosierTrooper]

That’s a real good news bad news type thing! Any chance you can get a new blade from Benchmade?

 

[Whilliam]

That’s a real good news bad news type thing! Any chance you can get a new blade from Benchmade?

It's a bit early to look into replacing the blade, but unless I can put a proper edge on this one, it is something that I will have to consider.

Right now, all the parts are marinating in TSI-321, a synthetic ester with high penetration properties. Time will tell.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

It's a bit early to look into replacing the blade, but unless I can put a proper edge on this one, it is something that I will have to consider.

Right now, all the parts are marinating in TSI-321, a synthetic ester with high penetration properties. Time will tell.

Yeah, hopefully you can save the original blade, I was just thinking out loud.

 

[Whiterook]

I don't have the skills you apparently have, so I would have contacted Benchmade to see it they could refurbish it. You are fortunate to have it back!

 

[Whilliam]

I don't have the skills you apparently have, so I would have contacted Benchmade to see it they could refurbish it. You are fortunate to have it back!

Oh, I don't have any particular skills at all. It's strictly a learn-as-I-go exercise, albeit aided by some YouTube videos. The chances are fairly good that I'll send the whole mess to Benchmade at some point. But until then, I'll just soldier on as best I can.

 

[Multum in parvo]

I believe the SR restoration guys here use vinegar to turn red active rust into black inert one which would go well with the existing coating. Bevel setting and if needed reprofiling on a fine Norton bench stone and final sharpening with your preferred setup.

The most worrying thing that I see is the bubbling rust underneath the coating which you have to knock off to get to good steel. So afterwards it will show some battle scars or you have to find a way to patinated the exposed steel for a more uniform look.

 

[Whilliam]

I believe the SR restoration guys here use vinegar to turn red active rust into black inert one which would go well with the existing coating. Bevel setting and if needed reprofiling on a fine Norton bench stone and final sharpening with your preferred setup.

The most worrying thing that I see is the bubbling rust underneath the coating which you have to knock off to get to good steel. So afterwards it will show some battle scars or you have to find a way to patinated the exposed steel for a more uniform look.

Thanks for the vinegar tip. I'll give it a try, as I've little to lose.

I know the coating has been compromised. Those are battle scars I'll have to live with unless I decide to strip the whole blade. M4 steel, while it holds a long and hard edge, is particularly succeptible to corrosion. I'll just have to keep it well-oiled going forward.

That said, I'll probably at least ask Benchmade about the cost of factory restoration. (Naturally, I don't think they'll view this as a warranty adjustment. Ha ha.)

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I'd echo the vinegar tip. It does work very well. Personally, I'd strip it, wire brush the furry bits, soak in vinegar, scrub with a dry cloth, and oil well. It might still look like it's had a hard life, but that's how all the best tools look anyway

Sharpening might take a while, but you'll find plenty of good steel in there eventually. My only concern, I think, would be springs. You might need to replace those. Once that's done, you should end up with a good solid user again.

 

[rodrigaj]

@Whilliam
One of the reasons that I recently got into good knives via the the Benchmade brand (mini Barrage, mini Bugout, so far) was their lifetime warranty. Wouldn't they repair and restore your knife?

I know the draw of DIY restoration, but by the looks of your knife, I don't think I would attempt it.

BTW, I really like the photos of your EDC knife collection and look forward to following this restoration.

 

[KenM]

Once upon a time Blade HQ repaired a knife for me at their storefront. They shut the storefront down during covid and haven't reopened it to my knowledge, but I haven't stopped in to check for months. They may be worth a try for parts.

 

[Legion]

I believe the SR restoration guys here use vinegar to turn red active rust into black inert one which would go well with the existing coating. Bevel setting and if needed reprofiling on a fine Norton bench stone and final sharpening with your preferred setup.

The most worrying thing that I see is the bubbling rust underneath the coating which you have to knock off to get to good steel. So afterwards it will show some battle scars or you have to find a way to patinated the exposed steel for a more uniform look.

Generally as a rule I don't recommend that approach on a SR, as it turns the very thin edge into Swiss cheese on a microscopic level, and makes it very hard to reset the bevel cleanly. Not so bad with a knife, but still. Active rust like that is soft and easy to sand off.

For that knife I would pull it apart and start wet sanding. You will lose the black finish, of course, but such is life. I'd probably start with 240 grit paper and get it as cleaned up as you can, then use progressively finer paper to remove the scratches from the last grit, and go up to about 1200. If you have a buffer with compound you could then polish with that, or by hand with something like Autosol.

 

[Whilliam]

BTW, I really like the photos of your EDC knife collection and look forward to following this restoration.

Thank you!

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

I would try to not use the dremel for anything until it comes to polishing with the cloth wheel and various compounds, even a softer wire wheel can lead more later on scruffs, scratches and gouges.

I found on the kitchen knives I've done the Dremel wasn't as easy to use as sandpaper, steel wool or a blue scotchbrite pad.

 

[Legion]

I would try to not use the dremel for anything until it comes to polishing with the cloth wheel and various compounds, even a softer wire wheel can lead more later on scruffs, scratches and gouges.

I found on the kitchen knives I've done the Dremel wasn't as easy to use as sandpaper, steel wool or a blue scotchbrite pad.

The amount of razors I have seen destroyed with a Dremel....

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Try Dremel Radial 1 inch Bristle Disc wheels, in place of a wire wheel, much less aggressive, but will remove rust, not steel. You can get them in different grits, but I use 60 grit, (maroon) mostly. You can gang them up or individually to get into tight spots. They last a long time. The eBay wheels work just as well as Dremel packaged wheels.

Also great for Jimps on straight razors and tang between the scales if you are not unpinning.

You can also get a 6-inch 3M radial wheel for a buffer, works great for knives, razors, and tools, you can go from the 60-grit radial wheel to a buffing wheel with Stainless compound on a sewn wheel with great results. The 6 inch, 3M is a bit pricy, but worth every penny, they too can be stacked.

Vinegar works well on rust but do not soak for longer than 20 minutes. Make sure the steel is well degreased so the vinegar can get to the metal. I heat the metal with hot tap water soak after degreaser bath and scrub.

Soak in 50% Vinegar then scrub with brass, stainless or nylon toothbrushes depending on aggressiveness needed. If needed soak for another 20 minutes and scrub. Let the vinegar do the work, it will eat and loosen the rust.

If you overnight soak or for days, it will eat the steel. Once clean, soak in a hot water bath with a tablespoon of baking soda, to neutralize the vinegar. It will also minimize rusting. I go from hot baking soda bath to blow off with air and spray down with WD40 or CRC3-36 to prevent flash rust.

 

[Whilliam]

I would try to not use the dremel for anything until it comes to polishing with the cloth wheel and various compounds, even a softer wire wheel can lead more later on scruffs, scratches and gouges.

I found on the kitchen knives I've done the Dremel wasn't as easy to use as sandpaper, steel wool or a blue scotchbrite pad.

Thanks for pointing that out. I think I'll just leave he Dremel tool where it is, packed away and out of trouble.

Try Dremel Radial 1 inch Bristle Disc wheels, in place of a wire wheel, much less aggressive, but will remove rust, not steel. You can get them in different grits, but I use 60 grit, (maroon) mostly. You can gang them up or individually to get into tight spots. They last a long time. The eBay wheels work just as well as Dremel packaged wheels.

Also great for Jimps on straight razors and tang between the scales if you are not unpinning.

You can also get a 6-inch 3M radial wheel for a buffer, works great for knives, razors, and tools, you can go from the 60-grit radial wheel to a buffing wheel with Stainless compound on a sewn wheel with great results. The 6 inch, 3M is a bit pricy, but worth every penny, they too can be stacked.

Vinegar works well on rust but do not soak for longer than 20 minutes. Make sure the steel is well degreased so the vinegar can get to the metal. I heat the metal with hot tap water soak after degreaser bath and scrub.

Soak in 50% Vinegar then scrub with brass, stainless or nylon toothbrushes depending on aggressiveness needed. If needed soak for another 20 minutes and scrub. Let the vinegar do the work, it will eat and loosen the rust.

If you overnight soak or for days, it will eat the steel. Once clean, soak in a hot water bath with a tablespoon of baking soda, to neutralize the vinegar. It will also minimize rusting. I go from hot baking soda bath to blow off with air and spray down with WD40 or CRC3-36 to prevent flash rust.

Thank you! This answers a lot of questions, and will keep me from making things worse.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

How’s it going?