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Atelier Durdan Vestige

We now have another premium razor that uses Gem blades. This uses the interrupted thread design of the Blackland Sabre. The spine of the blade protrudes from the back of the head to make the razor lighter and less bulky. Pricey little thing when you add it all up!

 
Atelier Durdan razors have gone up a lot since they were launched, not long ago. A fully polished razor is above Wolfman prices now. The La Faulx SE (Artist Club format) is absolutely superb, in my opinion, so I’m certainly curious about the Vestige. Just has to be another exceptional shaver to justify that price. It does look beautiful, so that’s a good start.
 
The Vestige is surprisingly lightweight. Only 61g in steel and 39g in titanium (IIRC). It looks much heavier with that long handle but apparently it’s light because the handle diameter is thin for most of its length.
I would probably get a stainless with a hollowed out handle and stand, but I am seriously thinking about that brass. If it was bronze, it would be an easier choice. I am assuming that he is releasing this now that the Sabre is discontinued(temporarily). It looks like everything I ever wanted in a Gem razor, but the "aggressive" has got to be actually positive exposure similar to my MMOC.
 
I would probably get a stainless with a hollowed out handle and stand, but I am seriously thinking about that brass. If it was bronze, it would be an easier choice. I am assuming that he is releasing this now that the Sabre is discontinued(temporarily). It looks like everything I ever wanted in a Gem razor, but the "aggressive" has got to be actually positive exposure similar to my MMOC.
There are Vestige passarounds under way on a couple of other shaving forums, or so I hear.
 
I do have enough posts over there, just haven't been visiting recently. Thanks.
It’s started but I think you can still sign up. Would be great if you can and with all three plates included your opinions would be really illuminating. I’m too lazy to deal with shipping so I never do passarounds.

I’d honestly say I was at the point where I had given up on AC safety razors before I used the La Faulx. For me it is special and streets ahead of any other AC safety razor, except that I haven’t tried the new Wolfman WR4 and the reviews indicate it is also extremely good.

My experience with the Le Maurice DE wasn’t quite the same. It is very good but I like some other DEs better and the Le Maurice didn’t stand out. Still, assuming Augustin learned something before the La Faulx, there’s reason to hope the Vestige could be a great GEM razor. Again, the Wolfman WR3 GEM has great reviews too and I haven’t tried it. The WR3 and Vestige have very different head designs and weights.
 
Some rough napkin(head actually) math says that the stainless head would be about 15g! I can believe that the handle is about 45 based on the design. That's a strange balance for me, but due to it's light weight it probably just works.
 
I think the Vestige in brass looks wonderful, but I would want to keep it in pristine condition.

atelier-durdan-vestige.png
 
Still, assuming Augustin leaed something before the La Faulx, there’s reason to hope the Vestige could be a great GEM razor. Again, the Wolfman WR3 GEM has great reviews too and I haven’t tried it. The WR3 and Vestige have very different head designs and weights.

Both the Vestige and Wolfman are great GEM razors. I used the + plate Vestige today. Imagine the Sabre with the agility of the Vector with more baseplates. I will be doing some comparison shaves with both razors next week. The Wolfman is a very different razor in terms of weight/balance and efficiency options. The Vestige standard plate is definitely mild but very smooth.

Balance is fine with the Vestige. Head is 17g without a blade.

Standard neutral
+ 0.05mm
++ 0.1mm
 
First shave completed with the Atelier DURDAN Vestige. I shared this elsewhere but including here for those that may not be monitoring the razor pass around on another forum. Started with the + plate and will use the ++ tomorrow. I want to get another shave in before writing up a more complete analysis. But the short version is: I like this razor. I achieved an excellent outcome with this wonderfully smooth and effective shaver. I did have to conduct some touch ups in my most demanding areas. But I think part of that might be me not hitting the sweet spot for shaving angle, on the first two passes. By the third I was pretty dialed in. It has been a while since I shaved with a GEM razor. Also, I think this razor may have a superpower for handling the mustache area (or maybe it is the GEM format?). Looking forward to the upcoming shaves!

vestige-alive-1.png
 
Forgot to update my review

Like our previous model, the La Faulx, the Vestige offers three levels of aggression corresponding to different blade exposures:

0 mm (0) and .19 gap
+0.05 mm (+) and .25 gap
+0.1 mm (++) and .32 gap


Like other modern GEMs, the blade is locked down tight, no movement during the shave. The Vestige is loud. Lots of feedback and very easy to find the angle, even with the small footprint of the cap.

Head is very light at 17g. It's light but enough weight behind the blade. I would never buy the titanium. Far too light.

I will say the regular/0 plate is incredibly smooth but on the mild side. The near zero gap had no issue dealing with 3 days growth. Imagine the Sabre with the agility of the Vector.

No blade stops: absolutely a non-issue, though I expect the near zero gap helps.

I found the ++ plate a little too much blade exposure. It's a jump up from the standard plate (neutral). The + plate is 0.05mm and the ++ 0.1mm. The standard/0 plate is Wolfman smooth but a little mild. I intend to do comparison shaves with my .40 WR3. The + plate would be a safe bet for most. Ups efficiency without losing too much smoothness.

Would be interesting to know blade exposure for the Wolfman, Sabre etc.

Vestige pass around 4.jpg


Finishing is basic polish with light machining marks. It looks similar but more subtle than Blackland's typical finish, then polished, but edges are smooth not sharp.

I like the idea of brass but could be a tricky to remove patina from the slotted safety bar if you wanted to keep it pristine.

Handle is very thin but perfectly usable. I would however appreciate more grip.

I wasn't sure about the look with the blade showing at the back but I don't have an issue with it now. It's fine in person but a fully enclosed blade does look more elegant. Loading is fine, only made a little more tricky with the tiny cap. The Vector is far more involved. Especially removing blades.

Having tried all plates at least one, I will go back and do a few comparison shaves with other modern GEMs: Sabre, Wolfman, etc. No need to bother with ATT G1, the standard/0 plate is more efficient for sure! I expect the standard/0 is in line with the Sabre L1 for efficiency but haven't done a side-by-side.

The Wolfman is a completely different shaving experience to the Vestige but perhaps the results will be very similar. I love the smoothness of the standard/0 plate but it is a mild shave.

Will try a few shaves with + plate next and then some direct comparisons.

Vestige pass around 29.jpg


Sabre v Vestige

Both the Wolfman and the Sabre have more blade on show. The Vestige 0 plate is very much line with the Sabre L1 for efficiency. I don't have the L2 at the moment but from memory the + is close. The Sabre seemed to be smoother but I think that is more to do with the extra weight. I like the agility of the lightweight Vestige but ultimately prefer the feel of the Sabre.

Vestige pass around 11.jpg


Wolfman v Vestige

Well these are totally different designs and weight classes. Although the Vestige is really smooth the Wolfman does better it. Yes, the Wolfman has that bulky head but for me it's a smoother shave. Even with the open comb. That said, the Vestige is still a very comfortable razor. However, my Wolfman is bronze not stainless.

Final thoughts

I like it but it's rather light especially the head and on the milder side. Feels like a lightweight Sabre but handles like a Vector. I do however prefer the weight of the Wolfman. It's a better shave for me. Totally different experience though I admit. Could have done with a larger gap I feel. The near zero gap is very comfortable, even the ++ is very safe with some added blade feel. Wolfman feels smoother with the extra weight. Vestige head is very light. 17g or thereabout. Handle needs more grip.

Very cool design but tending to mild even with the ++ plate. Even with the higher blade exposure it still feels very safe but you can absolutely feel the blade. No nicks, cuts or irritation with any of the plates. Just to clarify: I prefer the + plate over the ++ but the higher plate is not aggressive. That's just my preference for razors generally.

The head is much lighter than I personally prefer. The angled portion of the cap is very small compared to the Sabre, not to mention the Wolfman. It's easy to find the angle regardless.

Vestige pass around 25.jpg


The unique lather slot design simply will not clog, even with 3 days growth and the 0 plate.

I would still like a more secure grip, machined or blasted finishes may make a difference. I never dropped it but it got slick pretty easily in the basic polish. I've tried to capture the machining marks on the razor in the photos.

Vestige pass around 14.jpg


I'd recommend the + plate if you don't get the chance to try the razor. There isn't a significant difference in feel over the 0 plate.

The blade is a snug fit, I had to pop it out when taking apart the razor.

The stand. I don't really use stands but the handle fits perfectly.

Augustin always makes interesting razors and I'd love to see his take on a modern injector next.
 
Excellent review!
I've stayed away from Atelier Durdan and Wolfman so far. Of course price has an influence on that decision. It's mentally hard for me to swallow the "one shot" price when I've been able to buy various razors at the same cost as one. Makes no sense I know!
But I've liked trying lots of razors.
But I think these GEM's will get me past that.
I bought the Sabre and it wasn't great.
So what's left are the Vestige & WR3!
I'm leaning more towards the Wolfman though. I know the heads big but it looks proper. And performance wise I've read good reviews.
We'll see!
 
Alot of the cost is for the premium finishes. The WR3 head in the basic matte will set you back about $250 (same cost as the Vestige in machined finish without a stand) and you just bought the Sabre for $220 if it was new. Of course if you order one in mirror finish nickel it's going to cost an amazing amount. I don't recommend this for your first Wolfman! If you are lucky you may be able to find one on the BST for less or even more lucky have the opportunity to borrow one.

After trying the prototype I simply had to order one. GEM blades are my format of choice. Fortunately I've been able to trial several heads, so the purchase came with less risk. I realise that won't be possible for everyone. If you like GEM blades it's a razor you will need to try at some point.

I forgot about the size of the head almost immediately.

I'll be getting the Vestige soon.
 
Alot of the cost is for the premium finishes. The WR3 head in the basic matte will set you back about $250 (same cost as the Vestige in machined finish without a stand) and you just bought the Sabre for $220 if it was new. Of course if you order one in mirror finish nickel it's going to cost an amazing amount. I don't recommend this for your first Wolfman! If you are lucky you may be able to find one on the BST for less or even more lucky have the opportunity to borrow one.

After trying the prototype I simply had to order one. GEM blades are my format of choice. Fortunately I've been able to trial several heads, so the purchase came with less risk. I realise that won't be possible for everyone. If you like GEM blades it's a razor you will need to try at some point.

I forgot about the size of the head almost immediately.

I'll be getting the Vestige soon.
If I get a WR3, I would get the basic polished with a handle as well. I priced it out at $400 USD. The Sabre was $220 but I got that money back because I returned it. And I had forgotten to mention that today I received the Shield Predator titanium GEM. It was $118 new!
Very nice! We'll see how it does on tonight's shave:

full
 
If I get a WR3, I would get the basic polished with a handle as well. I priced it out at $400 USD. The Sabre was $220 but I got that money back because I returned it. And I had forgotten to mention that today I received the Shield Predator titanium GEM. It was $118 new!
Very nice! We'll see how it does on tonight's shave:

full
The Shield Predator gives excellent shaves. I've put myself on the Wolfman list for a WR3 so I've got 3 months to figure out which one. I'd like it to kind of match the smoothness, efficiency and feel of the Shield razor. I'm guessing a .60 SB!
 
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