I have been straight-razor shaving for several years. I maintain my own edges. My collection of straights is extensive. When I choose a razor for a shave I look at my notes and usually pick a razor with a bevel angle between 16 and 18 degrees thinking I’ll get the best performance. However, I have several Koraat razors, for example, with bevel angels between 20.3 and 22.1 degrees (larger 7/8 to 8/8). I get outstanding results from those razors. Why? Opinions?
Acceptable bevel angle
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Yes, I’m sure. I use dial calipers. Some literature exists that states that Ulrik uses higher bevel angles on razors with large widths (7/8, 8/8, etc.). I have six Koraat’s; four have a bevel angle between 20 and 22 degrees.
Well, if that isn't a call to break out the calipers, I don't know what is.
I measured my two Koraats, and both came out right around 17 degrees.
However, both are 6/8
Working from memory at the moment, but I think my 14 2.0 was in the 16 degree range.
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I have a Koraat 14 2.0. Its bevel angle is 17.2. Shaves good. My heavier grinds with bevel angles of 20-22 degrees shave very well also. I’m concluding that most straight shavers don’t measure the angles like us foamers!
Both of mine are 17°: a 14 2.0 bellied hollow and a Sheffield Half Hollow. Mine are from 2022 and 2023.
I get great shaves from higher bevel angles, I find them more comfortable and a little more forgiving than a "normal" angle. At some point they're not going to shave, but I'm happy with angles up to the 21-22 degree range.
I measure the spine thickness with Mitutoyo digital calipers and the blade width with a steel ruler eyeballing it to the closest 1/32". I used to use the calipers to measure width until I squeezed a little too hard one day...
Koraat 14 2.0: 17.3 degrees
A cruddy old Puma that's lost a lot of width: 21.2 degrees and shaves great
Old Sheffield wedge: 22.9 degrees honed with 2 layers electric tape, this one is pushing it but still good shaves
I've wondered whether higher bevel angles tone down the harshness of super sharp synth edges, but on the other hand don't work well with something like a coti edge that is typically not as keen.
I measure the spine thickness with Mitutoyo digital calipers and the blade width with a steel ruler eyeballing it to the closest 1/32". I used to use the calipers to measure width until I squeezed a little too hard one day...
Koraat 14 2.0: 17.3 degrees
A cruddy old Puma that's lost a lot of width: 21.2 degrees and shaves great
Old Sheffield wedge: 22.9 degrees honed with 2 layers electric tape, this one is pushing it but still good shaves
I've wondered whether higher bevel angles tone down the harshness of super sharp synth edges, but on the other hand don't work well with something like a coti edge that is typically not as keen.
Did you measure the spine width with the two layers of tape present?
I'll have to measure my 14 2.0 when I get home. I should measure the frameback I used today, I recall it being a hair under 20, and it is still one of my favorite shavers.
I must admit, I’ve never measured bevel angle on a razor.
No, I measured it bare then increased it by 2*0.007" for the calculation. With no tape it's 19.8 degrees.
Electric tape is pretty squishy so I consider these angles all to be approximate.
It's easier to get a smoother edge on a wider bevel angle.
However,
I can recognize a cutting angle of 19 or more degrees when I shave with one
and it always make me think that I have other razors that I would rather shave with.
The most acute edge on any razor in my regular rotation is a Case Temperite 25
with a cutting angle of 15.3 degrees. I don't think I will ever retire that one.
The most acute cutting angle on any razor that I liked
was a Brioline at 14.9 degrees.
But the edge didn't hold up long enough for me to want to keep it in my rotation.
That was a razor made in Germany for an American retailer,
which is in fact an entire class of razors that I like.
One of my very favorite razors has a cutting angle of 16.5 degrees
as per my request, made by @Katatsumuri
aka Bruno at Snailforge. That's a Wootz steel razor.
The quality of the steel figures heavily into how acute of a cutting angle can be supported.
My impression from honing Russian razors is that their steel is tougher than most.
Toughness and hardness are related but distinct.
The hardness test is a dent. The toughness test is a scratch.
All of my Russian razors have very acute cutting angles
but none of them ever made it into my rotation.
I'm going to have to take another look at those.
However,
I can recognize a cutting angle of 19 or more degrees when I shave with one
and it always make me think that I have other razors that I would rather shave with.
The most acute edge on any razor in my regular rotation is a Case Temperite 25
with a cutting angle of 15.3 degrees. I don't think I will ever retire that one.
The most acute cutting angle on any razor that I liked
was a Brioline at 14.9 degrees.
But the edge didn't hold up long enough for me to want to keep it in my rotation.
That was a razor made in Germany for an American retailer,
which is in fact an entire class of razors that I like.
One of my very favorite razors has a cutting angle of 16.5 degrees
as per my request, made by @Katatsumuri
aka Bruno at Snailforge. That's a Wootz steel razor.
The quality of the steel figures heavily into how acute of a cutting angle can be supported.
My impression from honing Russian razors is that their steel is tougher than most.
Toughness and hardness are related but distinct.
The hardness test is a dent. The toughness test is a scratch.
All of my Russian razors have very acute cutting angles
but none of them ever made it into my rotation.
I'm going to have to take another look at those.
Koraat is a hair over 17, the Hoshi Tombo frameback is a little under 20.
Is it possible that using a wedge grind, which generally has more mass than a hollow ground razor, permits the ability to "get away with" a more obtuse bevel angle due to the inertia in an overall heavier razor; once you get it moving? The weight of the razor offsets the extra force needed to cut through the whiskers.
I'm just guessing... The more obtuse angle may be a more durable edge too.
I would also guess that a 20+ deg. bevel wouldn't work nearly as well on a light weight full hollow grind.
What do you guys think?
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To me, what is acceptable is more than "it works".
Lots of things work. I don't invest my time on straight razors to achieve "acceptable".
I tend to like things best when they're working at peak performance.
That said, what works for one person, might not work for the next.
Most definitely, a more acute bevel creates a thinner edge width which can factor into greater cutting efficacy.
But other things will factor in too. It is possible to create an edge with an acute angle that doesn't cut well.
The difference in shave quality between 16° and 17° on any given razor might be negligible or non existent. Comparing between different razors honed by different people is a flawed model.
Diminishing returns becomes a thing at some point and then we need to remember that what is ideal for one steel might not be great for another. Not every razor will take and hold a 14° bevel. But when I find one that does, it can be wowza time.
In my personal experience, 19° or wider bevels shave, for me, pretty dodgy...I'm not into it. Reducing the angle always improves the cutting performance significantly. Of course I wouldn't do that with a $$$ custom but I've had a lot of wide heavy grind Sheffields with mucked up geometry that worked out just fine after being man-handled on the hones. I tend to aim for sub 18° bevels.
In the recent past I picked up a Kravechenko that arrived with an obese bevel. Previous owner is into honing on multiple layers of tape. I shaved with it once and didn't die.
Was it acceptable? IT shaved so to someone that might be enough. But for me, no, it wasn't acceptable.
I knew the blade would deliver more if worked correctly.
Then I honed it without tape and loved the shave.
I didn't bother with calipers so I don't have numbers but the bevel was probably reduced at least 2°.
Was a big difference in shave quality. Huge.
Lots of things work. I don't invest my time on straight razors to achieve "acceptable".
I tend to like things best when they're working at peak performance.
That said, what works for one person, might not work for the next.
Most definitely, a more acute bevel creates a thinner edge width which can factor into greater cutting efficacy.
But other things will factor in too. It is possible to create an edge with an acute angle that doesn't cut well.
The difference in shave quality between 16° and 17° on any given razor might be negligible or non existent. Comparing between different razors honed by different people is a flawed model.
Diminishing returns becomes a thing at some point and then we need to remember that what is ideal for one steel might not be great for another. Not every razor will take and hold a 14° bevel. But when I find one that does, it can be wowza time.
In my personal experience, 19° or wider bevels shave, for me, pretty dodgy...I'm not into it. Reducing the angle always improves the cutting performance significantly. Of course I wouldn't do that with a $$$ custom but I've had a lot of wide heavy grind Sheffields with mucked up geometry that worked out just fine after being man-handled on the hones. I tend to aim for sub 18° bevels.
In the recent past I picked up a Kravechenko that arrived with an obese bevel. Previous owner is into honing on multiple layers of tape. I shaved with it once and didn't die.
Was it acceptable? IT shaved so to someone that might be enough. But for me, no, it wasn't acceptable.
I knew the blade would deliver more if worked correctly.
Then I honed it without tape and loved the shave.
I didn't bother with calipers so I don't have numbers but the bevel was probably reduced at least 2°.
Was a big difference in shave quality. Huge.
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