Terrific thread and concepts!! 
I shave daily. For me the combination of a mild/moderate razor + sharp blade is BLISS!!
I shave daily. For me the combination of a mild/moderate razor + sharp blade is BLISS!!
Why do people want more aggressive razors than the 40s to 60s Gillettes?
- Thread starter coase
- Start date
The closest I came to a BBS shave with a pre-war Tech was WTG, ATG, and XTG, while also stretching/expanding my skin. If you want to practice, do so in your cheek, not you neck. Puff your cheek to stretch/expand the skin, like you are “holding a bubble in your mouth”. If you use the proper technique and a good blade, you ought to achieve the BBS, or close to it.
For me, it’s more work with a safety bar razor to achieve the desired results I get with an open comb.
On the other hand, the pre-war tech is perfect for a fast, I’m-running-late shower shave, without shaving cream.
Once you develop a proper shaving technique, you should be able to shave with any DE razor from very mild to the most aggressive. However, people vary significantly in the preferences for razors as they vary in the growth rate of their beard, the coarseness of their beard, and the sensitivity of their skin.
If I shave with a mild razor (even with a very aggressive blade like a Feather), it will take me four passes to get a close shave. If I use a very aggressive razor like a straight razor or a R41, I can shave with two passes plus a clean-up pass. However, I avoid very aggressive blades in the R41.
The point is that there are a lot of different faces and a lot of different razors. Find the razor or razors that work best for your face. Sometimes will use two different razors in the same shave: either a straight razor plus a DE, or two different DE razors as that seems to be what works best for me.
If a mild razor works for you, great; but be forewarned that as you age, your beard is likely to become coarser and tougher and you might require either a more aggressive razor or a more aggressive blade.
If I shave with a mild razor (even with a very aggressive blade like a Feather), it will take me four passes to get a close shave. If I use a very aggressive razor like a straight razor or a R41, I can shave with two passes plus a clean-up pass. However, I avoid very aggressive blades in the R41.
The point is that there are a lot of different faces and a lot of different razors. Find the razor or razors that work best for your face. Sometimes will use two different razors in the same shave: either a straight razor plus a DE, or two different DE razors as that seems to be what works best for me.
If a mild razor works for you, great; but be forewarned that as you age, your beard is likely to become coarser and tougher and you might require either a more aggressive razor or a more aggressive blade.
Ill add that I “could” shave 2x/day with a Post-war Tech without skin irritation. I don’t know that I’d do that with my 102 or my other OC razors because there will most likely be a couple of spots that I got sloppy with around the swirls on my neck. I can buff the area with next to no pressure using my 102 with a 99% chance of no irritation, but if I have to press, it reduces the chance in half.
I do 3 passes + cleanups, stretching skin with pulling, puffing and some basic contortions. Don't have unusually coarse beard. I use mostly Gillette Platinum/Silver Blue and Astra SP/SS blades. Tried steep, neutral and shallow angles, applied no pressure, tons of pressure... I get remaining stubble with a Tech head like I did with an electric razor (socially acceptable shaves).
It's like the old joke
"How do you get to London?"
"Well, if I were going to London I wouldn't start from here...."
I agree with you that "technique" doesn't get you too far with a Tech. I think the point is that very efficient razors demand what I'd call "familiarity" to perform satisfactorily on a daily basis. I'd hesitate to call it "technique" though that's probably what it is. You don't need tuition or Youtube videos - trial and error and a bit of basic knowledge should do it if you are good at experimenting and learning from your findings.
I'd seriously love to get a closer shave with a tech style head since I have several razors with it sitting unused. Baili BD191 shaves the closest, but still falls short for my preference.
I have a couple of Techs - never use them, and should sell them on. The Old Type open comb is a different story - put a good modern handle on it and it's very close to a Fatip. Razors from the 20s and 30s could be really good, plus they're brass.
I started shaving just before Wilkinson came out with their Stainless blades. The Gillette Blue Blade was pretty much the standard. It was frankly pretty bad. If one was lucky, you may have gotten 2 shaves from it. I know my dad never used a DE, he was strictly an Injector man. He felt the blades were far sharper and much longer lasting. I really didn’t “enjoy” shaving until I started using the British Wilkinson Swords. They were, in my opinion, the best DE blades made. I still regret they disappeared. Back in that day, the goal was a close, comfortable shave. If one had to shave in the evening. That was fine, and no one thought the worse about it. I still strive for that Close, comfortable shave. Anything else will give me terrible irritation.
Machismo!
People are nuts!
People are nuts!
I never have really figured out the super aggressive safety razor deal, I never was a big fan of a fatboy on 9. THOUGH I do shave with a straight razor 98% of the time, so I guess its just a different kind of aggressive.
I agree, close, comfortable is the way to go. I want a nice shave, but I don't want to feel any pain afterwards.
Straight razors are toxic masculinity.
Or shaving at all. We need to start waxing.
Or shaving at all. We need to start waxing.
I honestly think it’s pretty simple. Ask yourself what most men today value in a shave? Quick, easy, no cuts, no razor burn. That is exactly what men valued back then. Probably even more since they had to shave daily. The razor most likely to provide all of those would be the least agressive. The more aggressive the razor, the higher the level of concentration must be. It also ups the potential for a cut or razor burn. And just like today there was/is a subset of people who value a closer shave or have beards that are heavier. Those people bought the more aggressive razors. I think today’s obsession with them is just guys being guys.
If this is the case, you might find a NEW, Long Comb or Short Comb, more to your liking. They are far more efficient. The Goodwill 162 is a beautiful version of the 102a(thick cap Old Type), and I don’t remember ever cutting myself with one.
Personally, I’d suggest the Short Comb and the 162. If you want more efficiency, give the 102(thin cap Old Type) a serious run.
There is nothing toxic about a well honed, well stropped straight razor used by someone who knows how to use one. Besides, there is no need to be sexist, there are women who use straight razors as well.
And remember, they are innocent until proven guilty!
Are the Tech and NEW SC same with exceptions to solid bar vs open comb, or is there difference in geometry?
Lol!!!!!Straight razors are toxic masculinity.
Or shaving at all. We need to start waxing.
