What's new

Some Inside Baseball Upon a Little-Known, Very Special Razor 'Technology'

Personally I bow to thinness/concavity of razors, for flexibility associated thereof to the steel and the acuity of bevel angle coming at the beard. Swedish early-20th-c 'framebacks' are impossibly thin, terrific acute bevels, but alas also quite stiff. It would be fair to say this stuff peaked from roughly the late Victorian Era to just before WWII and has not returned to that level since. I don't find normal run of the mill Golden Age str8s better or worse than the modern stuff if their grinds are the same.

What's detailed below was posted to a now-defunct forum about 2-3 years prior. But I'll detail for you here something that (in another time before straight razor production in the EU really became constantly backlogged) Thiers-Issard dared to make which was, in my lifetime, anyway, what I consider the high-watermark of (modern) straight razor production. I think it is very little known at all.

I once knew a formerly-important person at TI (not there anymore, along with many others, dispatched @ roughly the time TI began producing "OEM" razors for a well-known retail brand en masse, and made their business decision to shed this costly payroll and make razors without pissing contests for thinness).

The fellow, as a tinkerer and empowered there with some creative control of production and as both a designer and producer alike, began a process for grinding that I colloquially referred to as 'the negative bevel' razor. Thiers didn't do this long, roughly late '07/early '08 until just before 2012, and only did so on their 5/8" and 6/8" extra-hollow-ground model from what I was told by this former employee, and it was mostly just before the changeover to the "C135" steel and mostly the 5/8" model (but indeed, some of them were made with the new C135 stuff and the old, and in both 5/8 and 6/8, so u may have one!)

Obviously, a razor cannot have a bevel angle that's a negative number-"negative bevel" written here just means a razor which had a bevel angle that would be otherwise too acute for the spine-to-bevel angle geometry to possibly achieve, due to the spine being in the way of the honing/grinding medium.

As a matter of course I've honed every razor we've sold barring the hyper collectible or fragile-spine-decor things. In so doing at the onset of discovery of this "TI Negative Bevel Era", I began seeing a razor on the benchstone developing what looked like a 'secondary' bevel (this means the final angle more obtuse than the rest of the bevel plane) as I made laps on the coticule. How could this be?, I wondered, as I had both spine and edge flush to stone...something had to be very wrong indeed with this razor. So, I began the process of smoke signals to summon the elusive _____ ____ at TI.

_____ ____ extolled "No! Don't hone this razor!!!" (too late for that one), and explained to me that, quite remarkably, the razor's final processes of grinding were all done with the razor's spine WITHIN the plane of the grinding, as opposed to UPON it (or, in some artisanal cases, ABOVE the plane via tape/etc) as would be normal, intentionally to achieve maximum bevel acuity. They did this by free hand, if you can believe that. I can't imagine the skill it would take to do so and have a normal looking bevel. Said mostly it was with long belts and the razor aside these mediums, but some with very narrow wheels which wouldn't reach the spine were they upon the edge. This resulted in the razor that, upon my forearm cutting hair as high above the skin as I can muster via honing as the benchmark used here along with bringing a strand of the wife's down to the blade, cut hair upon me as no other ever has before or since....well, not the one I "messed" up by bringing it back to normal geometry, of course, but the next piece of such (5/8" pre-C135) that I took home...I still have that razor, and have never honed it, and it does not shave like anything else. In fact it is the only razor I own which I could fairly say I've yet to get anything but a spectacular result from.

How much longer can my specimen work like this? I dunno. _____ ____ told me that these 'negative bevel' pcs should be only touched up via their own wood-mounted strop with paste for as long as possible, because doing this would not bring the bevel back to normal, but could be kept as such for 2-3 years of daily use, and upon the first time you tried to hone on a regular stone/hone with spine and edge flush you'd start seeing the normal bevel angle popping up right at the edge and then it would be come just another normal well ground hollow French blade.

When I'd detailed this story on the other now-defunct forum a few years back, quite remarkably a seasoned hand who e-hung-out there had actually read of this notion in an old Sheffield text for grinders (he must be one hell of a researcher). The mystery person @ TI confirmed this to me as being their genesis, or at least having first got the idea there if not the manner of production.

Anyone out there have a 'negative bevel' TI (~2008-late 2011, extra hollow model 5/8 and 6/8 only), or one of the original of such from Sheffield? Anyone go to hone their TI or old Sheffield razor and start seeing a secondary bevel forming at the tip of the bevel planes while their confirmed-flat stone had both spine and edge flush upon it?
 
Interesting

Don't quite know why they would do that, seems like an easier way to do the same thing is to make the razor with a thinner spine and get the desired angle that way.
 
Because there's limits to how thin you can make the spine, and these bevels' acuity's well beyond what those limits would bear in geometry.
 
Last edited:
Thank you! One more question. Since you honed one of these blades, did the hardness or temper of the steel feel any differently to you? Much has been written on the subject of how acute this angle can be made before the edge becomes to fragile. Did your TI friend ever mention having to heat treat these blades differently?
 
He didn't mention if they'd tempered them differently, Brian, only that they were ground much different. Said that most of them have "Evide Sonnant Extra" written on them, and if you have a "scalloped" tail 6/8" that TI started doing ~2011/2012 that that marked the end of these 'negative' TIs.

Indeed an edge will break and chip endlessly if too thin vs the limits of the recipe/tempering of the steel. TI did, and still does I'll wager, temper differently vs the Germans. But in any case, I only "incorrectly" honed the one pc, and have never honed the piece I took on any stone, shaved with it a couple hundred times if I had to guess and have indeed stropped it on Herold linen with mixed diamonds-and-alum-ox stuff only about five or six times with all those shaves. With any luck it remains as a 'negative' beyond my days, and that that unknown supply's abundant :)
 
Because there's limits to how thin you can make the spine, and these bevels' acuity's well beyond what those limits would bear in geometry.

^
This.
Except - I'm not certain that spines can't be made thinner - it's just that, if you do that, you wind up with another big issue to deal with later.

I believe I had one of these neg-bevel TIs to hone for someone a ways back, but upon arrival - it was dead to the world for shaving. I honed it but the honing process wasn't 'normal', the 'new' bevel set by the existing geometry started at the apex, and 'grew' up from the edge to meet the shinogi as if I was intentionally putting on a secondary bevel.
Which may have been exactly that - excapt I wasn't using tape so it didn't make sense.
The only explanation I can imagine for it would be some sort of a neg-bevel making thing-a-ma-bob described above.
Another thought was a layer of tape or two in the hollow to form a 'lower faux spine' or something, to hone on a thin stone in a parallel fashion.
The blade, as I recall - 7/8-ish, old type steel, not C135 for sure. Simple black scales. Very hollow but not one of the tissue-paper singers. No wear on the spine to speak of either. Shaved well, I want to say I thought it to be stiffer than most TI hollows for some reason.
I also had something similar go on with a Boker that had a worked spine and a barber's notch.
Back then - I wasn't trying to isolate the 'why' factor though - so it didn't matter much at the time.
 
Personally I bow to thinness/concavity of razors, for flexibility associated thereof to the steel and the acuity of bevel angle coming at the beard. Swedish early-20th-c 'framebacks' are impossibly thin, terrific acute bevels, but alas also quite stiff.

Having a pair of Swedish framebacks I can attest to that. Nice info on the TI's, but the math makes my head hurt :)
 
Thank you again Jarrod! I am not even good enough to be called an amateur, but metallurgy interests me and I am always amazed at what can be done with different steels and heat treatment processes. They dig up a rock, then turn it into a material hard enough to break rocks! We think of steel as this old material that has always been around, but the technology is amazing.
 
Personally I bow to thinness/concavity of razors, for flexibility associated thereof to the steel and the acuity of bevel angle coming at the beard. Swedish early-20th-c 'framebacks' are impossibly thin, terrific acute bevels, but alas also quite stiff. (...)

Thank you for a very interesting thread. The Swedish 1910-1940's faux framebacks are the thinnest, hardest and absolutely sharpest razors I've ever tried. I love them. They are unfortunately also very fragile.

$2015-11-02 08.22.36.jpg
 
That thing looks awesome Polarbeard, will have to bid one down and give it a more modern scale. Acute angles are obviously very tough to achieve for all and nobody's done 'em like those early 20c Swedes. Any more flexible than the ones with the metal slid into the little train track, by chance, or just as stiff?

Once restored a Simmons USA-forged pc with that little scallop on the tang and actually liked putting the thumb nail's bit right in there
 
I'm calling this "much ado about nothing". I agree with Doc, simply make the spine thinner. An 1/8" of razor steel is still plenty stiff for a razor.

Very interesting none the less. I had a GREAT shave one time with a Pakistani razor that had like a 13 degree bevel angle. It was difficult to hone, but I was shocked at the great shave I had.
 
(...) Any more flexible than the ones with the metal slid into the little train track, by chance, or just as stiff?(...)
These are actually even stiffer/harder. It means that they get incredible sharp when honed correctly. The downside is, as I wrote, that the incredible hard steel in combination with the nearly impossibly thin blades makes them very fragile. All the major Swedish manufacturers had their versions of it with our without thumb notch. Very few were exported and survivors in good shape can be hard to find, especially if you want the thumb notch version. I collect these razors.
 
I'm calling this "much ado about nothing".

As is your constitutional right! But remember the disadvantaged position the two of you share (neither's shaved with one :)

It isn't Swedish frameback narrow, but it is damn close, and unlike them it limbos all over the place on the face to best trace. I'm sure I've shaved with 200+ razors over the years and it is for me the only one a notch notably better than all others. For me that's special, and if "1/8" of razor steel is still plenty stiff for a razor." was so easy to do I think more of the razor makers would do so...I don't doubt that they could grind 'em down so thin, I just think they can't come up with a recipe and temper that can take that intensity.
 
As is your constitutional right! But remember the disadvantaged position the two of you share (neither's shaved with one :)

It isn't Swedish frameback narrow, but it is damn close, and unlike them it limbos all over the place on the face to best trace. I'm sure I've shaved with 200+ razors over the years and it is for me the only one a notch notably better than all others. For me that's special, and if "1/8" of razor steel is still plenty stiff for a razor." was so easy to do I think more of the razor makers would do so...I don't doubt that they could grind 'em down so thin, I just think they can't come up with a recipe and temper that can take that intensity.

That may well be it. Full hollows were once considered the high tech of their day. Across my mug I am usually a quarter hollow kind of guy, but I break out my Dorko when the urge to listen to one sing kicks in.
 
U don't want to believe they're anything special, Seraphim? Good. I'm happy 4 u. Go whittle down a GD's spine to 3mm, set the bevel via that new +6° each axis standard, & show us all how easy it is for $5 and some skilled elbow grease.

I've handled my share of straights and it jumped off the pg for me and still does, so if it is a happy lie call me happy, then.

As a younger waiter in a "country" part of town, I was always jealous of the clientele I served, whom while I presumed never did or would own a passport (vs myself with all my stampings and not nearly the happiness quotient they enjoyed) were very, very happy people...I'm all too familiar that ignorance real of imagined is blissful, and if I can be blissfully ignorant here I'm certainly buying in.
 
I haven't tried one of these, would love to.

Still seems like an odd way to do it for TI, make something that really can't be honed in a conventional way.

I know the folks at TI know way more than I, but still I would think a simpler way of doin this woudl be to grind as they do, then thin the spine down to achieve the angle they want-from here on these can be honed as any other razor.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Agree. While it is nice to see makers go out on tangents like that and push the envelope, I would much rather have a razor that can simply be honed and stropped normally in every respect. And anyway my experience with extremely acute bevels is that the few that will take and hold an edge decently, tend to be very bloodthirsty, seeking to filet my skin, making ME sing when the clubman hits my face, and not a song of joy, either. And so you end up with a bevel of 14, even 13 degrees... you could still achieve the same bevel with a thinner spine and normal honing. I see no particular advantage, and a couple of major disadvantages, of this grind. For a very acute bevel, just use a thin spine. And to make the edge more face friendly, add a secondary bevel.

I find it quite instructive that these razors dont seem to be in current production. I think perhaps they have been found to be impractical to manufacture competitively. As for honing, if the razor is shoulderless one can simply lap the stone very well (or use film) and hone with the spine off the edge of the hone, dragging the edge longways down the sidelines (sorry for the football-speak) of the hone. A fence or guide of some sort, set several thousandths below the surface of the hone, would provide a surface for the spine to slide on so it could still serve as a bevel guide. And simply hone normally, for only a few laps, on a very fine finisher, for a secondary bevel which would of course make the edge more stable.

Still, seems a lot of bother. Er... coming from the guy who even laps his balsa strops, and strops on clean balsa between pasted grits and before leather.
 
One would think that making a frameback, with removable blade, would be be able to achieve this "technology" by removing the blade from the razor holder and honing with some kind of guide block for setting the angle. At which point: it becomes user friendly for future honing.

I know the C135 is known to be very hard: would TI not be able to make the same claim of all their razors once a good edge is on it that it's good for years of use with only pastes to maintain?
The bold claim that the edge is good for years: I'm puzzled to what about this more acute angle would allow it to hold an edge longer/better than a traditional angled edge with razor of the same steel. If anything: it's a finer edge implying it would be more susceptible to wear.
 
Top Bottom