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Removing Rust, but not Patina?

Well I got myself a beater that looks like it's still got a little tread on the tires. I'd like to take a stab at restoring it! However, I want it to retain it's vintage look. I want to remove the rust without removing all of the darkening and dulling. Is there a good way to do this? I also want to make it nice and sanitary.

So, how do I get this rust out of the way without compromising the character?
 
can use a wet ultra fine metal sanding paper or 0000 ultra fine steel wool with WD 40 and polish out the rust..go easy but ultra fine will not scratch . otherwise a buffer with the various brushes and compound if you have one or are proficient in buffing
 
I love restoring razors with patina on them. Very rarely do I take a razor to buffers and run them through greaseless compounds, rouges and crox and only do this if there is pitting to remove. Anything else I use a dremmel with rouges at low speeds and finish off with crox to give it a beautiful polish and helps the patina stand out a bit more.

I've tried an acid dip (not Rockrat's formulation) and wasn't happy with the results since it didn't do anything for the imperfections like smooth out some minor pitting.
 
Thanks for the feedback so far, guys - one idea I had was to clean up the tang and spine, but leave the blade with its character. Kind of a middle-ground (assuming I can't remove the rust without damaging the character of the patina). It needs new scales anyway, so I'm going to unpin it and get cracking with the least destructive method I can.
 
Thanks for the feedback so far, guys - one idea I had was to clean up the tang and spine, but leave the blade with its character. Kind of a middle-ground (assuming I can't remove the rust without damaging the character of the patina). It needs new scales anyway, so I'm going to unpin it and get cracking with the least destructive method I can.

What you described is what I shoot for. It really depends on the condition of the blade and it's thickness. Full hollows can be tough.
 
What you described is what I shoot for. It really depends on the condition of the blade and it's thickness. Full hollows can be tough.

I believe this guy is only about 1/2 hollow. Still, I'm going to do as little as possible to the grind - it's got a neat etching that I really want to preserve. I really just need to post a picture of this thing tonight...
 
We had guests over until 9:30 last night, and I start work around 7am, so I needed my beauty sleep. Today, though. Probably. :lol:
How'd it work out for you (the beauty sleep, I mean...)?

I recently cleaned up an old Wosty with a similar objective as yours. I basically started with ~400 grit sandpaper and went to 600, 1200, and then 000 and 0000 steel wool. If you were really concerned about not damaging the patina, you might try this procedure - but in reverse order - moving up (or down, actually) only as far as you can go with no damage.
 
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Josh, how did it go? Were you able to get the rust and leave the patina? I have a nice Turner wedge with a beautiful patina and some spots of rust. I'd prefer to leave the dark tarnish, hone it up and use it but the rust has to go. I practiced with 0000 steel wool on another blade - it got the rust but polished the blade, too.

...Ray
 
0000 Steel wool is a good thing to use in situations like these.
Bronze wool is also an option. Harder then rust, softer then steel.
 
0000 Steel wool is a good thing to use in situations like these.
Bronze wool is also an option. Harder then rust, softer then steel.
OK honed, you were right. I took it easy with a piece of 0000 SW and a squirt of WD40. The rust is gone but the patina is left behind. Very nice...

...Ray
 
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