Horn scale pivot end repair...

[bmiller3230]

I'm restoring a horn scaled razor from the 1780's to 1790's. I removed the scales (cutting through the rotten collars through the top of the pins on one side).

Soaked them in neatsfoot oil for a solid day. The pivot end of the presentation side needs some attention. There is some delamination, but also a crack that extends from the pivot pin hole up. Can this be addressed with hornpoxy or CA glue?

 

[Legion]

I'd probably fill the crack with CA glue, from the back side. But I would have done it before the neatsfoot oil. Not sure how it will hold now.

You could try CA in the crack, then epoxy on the back and in the hole, then redrill the hole with the minimum size bit to fit the pin diameter.

 

[bmiller3230]

All good advice. Thanks. I was also thinking about a repair that I've seen in old wood. A double dove tail across the crack. Cut it in and fill with epoxy from the back, and hold the crack tight with a rubber band.

I'm probably over complicating it...

 

[LJS]

Are you completely opposed to replacing with new horn scales? Because it is the exact same period-correct material, less work, and better outcome in the end. I have made repairs to horn, fought delamination, attempted to stabilize, etc……and cutting new scales from a horn slab is so much nicer and better with another 100-200 years of life vs. a salvage repair. Good luck either way - sounds like a worthy project.

 

[bmiller3230]

Are you completely opposed to replacing with new horn scales? Because it is the exact same period-correct material, less work, and better outcome in the end. I have made repairs to horn, fought delamination, attempted to stabilize, etc……and cutting new scales from a horn slab is so much nicer and better with another 100-200 years of life vs. a salvage repair. Good luck either way - sounds like a worthy project.

No, I'm not completely opposed. Just seems right to try to save them if possible. Making new scales is plan B

 

[Gamma]

The oil soaked material might be an issue now. Depends on whether or not enough of it soaked in far enough to leave a surface that can be glued. All repairs should be done before applying oil and they really don't need to be soaked in the stuff.

The split appears to have a gap. I might consider packing the crack with baking soda and then drizzling very very thin CA on it with a needle tip. Be careful, wear eye protection and go slow because the mix will generate heat. The result will be stronger and harder than just CA glue.

 

[bmiller3230]

The oil soaked material might be an issue now. Depends on whether or not enough of it soaked in far enough to leave a surface that can be glued. All repairs should be done before applying oil and they really don't need to be soaked in the stuff.

The split appears to have a gap. I might consider packing the crack with baking soda and then drizzling very very thin CA on it with a needle tip. Be careful, wear eye protection and go slow because the mix will generate heat. The result will be stronger and harder than just CA glue.

I might try that. Would that be better than epoxy and horn dust?

Unfortunately I didn't notice the crack when I decided to soak them in oil. I thought I'd only have to do some sanding. Only noticed the crack when I was inspecting them after pulling them out of the oil

 

[Gamma]

I'm the person that invented "Hornoxy" - FWIW, I would probably use baking soda + CA here.

What's "Better' - it's a difficult term to use accurately here though.

I would, have, and still do use Epoxy for big fills, large areas of delam, bug bites, etc. But for filling a small crack in a precarious spot, I would probably choose b/s+ca.

I have done this repair with epoxy, sure.
I have filled more cracks and gaps in more things with ca and baking soda though.

The CA glue mixed with baking soda will be hard to beat, adhesion wise. The BS will fill the crack thoroughly if you do it correctly. I might even pulverize the baking soda to be more dust-like. Do not use additional accelerant.

Scales never really need to be soaked. Light applications of oil over a period of time is a better way to handle the task.

 

[bmiller3230]

I'm the person that invented "Hornoxy" - FWIW, I would probably use baking soda + CA here.

What's "Better' - it's a difficult term to use accurately here though.

I would, have, and still do use Epoxy for big fills, large areas of delam, bug bites, etc. But for filling a small crack in a precarious spot, I would probably choose b/s+ca.

I have done this repair with epoxy, sure.
I have filled more cracks and gaps in more things with ca and baking soda though.

The CA glue mixed with baking soda will be hard to beat, adhesion wise. The BS will fill the crack thoroughly if you do it correctly. I might even pulverize the baking soda to be more dust-like. Do not use additional accelerant.

Scales never really need to be soaked. Light applications of oil over a period of time is a better way to handle the task.

Ok, that sounds like the plan then. Thanks for the advice!

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

CA and horn dust will work just fine, have done tons that way and repaired some large bug bites and cracks in horn with no issue.

Sand the inside of the scales over a cookie sheet to collect the dust. The horn dust/powder and CA works just like baking soda, except the repair is invisible. Baking Soda dries white, and you will see it.

Horn is very repairable and forgiving, don’t like the repair sand it off and do it again.

The Neetsfoot oil should not bother after a couple days of drying, but if you want extra insurance clean the repair area with a Q-Tip dipped in Acetone.

After sanding and buffing you can reapply neatsfoot.

 

[bmiller3230]

CA and horn dust will work just fine, have done tons that way and repaired some large bug bites and cracks in horn with no issue.

Sand the inside of the scales over a cookie sheet to collect the dust. The horn dust/powder and CA works just like baking soda, except the repair is invisible. Baking Soda dries white, and you will see it.

Horn is very repairable and forgiving, don’t like the repair sand it off and do it again.

The Neetsfoot oil should not bother after a couple days of drying, but if you want extra insurance clean the repair area with a Q-Tip dipped in Acetone.

After sanding and buffing you can reapply neatsfoot.

I think the CA glue and baking soda thing worked on the crack. I have some more sanding to do and a few small non-critical (non-structural) repairs to make that I'll use hornoxy on. So, I'm thinking that I will be able to salvage the scales.

But, I have a slab of horn on the way just in case.

 

[bmiller3230]

In the mean time, I've been working on the blade. How far would you take it? I'm not going for "wow--that looks like it came new from the cutlers'". I'm going more for a well used but cared for family heirloom vibe

Here is how it started out:

And here is how far I've gotten. I'm really resisting the urge to use a Dremel...

 

[bmiller3230]

There was active rust around the pivot and tang and on one face and on and below the spine. Strangely, the blade had a burr on one side as if someone had started setting the bevel on it using the burr method then stopped.

I would have thought that would have been the first thing to rust off

 

[bmiller3230]

Here are the scales. By no means perfect, and the repairs are not invisible, but I do think they will hold up. Also, the collars will cover some of it...

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Lot of deep pitting. What I have done is leave the deep pitting, there is a product called Rustoleum Rust Reformer, come in a small bottle or spray can. It will stop the rust in the pits and make them black. Clean the razor well and brush with acetone to remove any dirt and oil then brush on the pitting.

It will seal the pits, and is a cool look.

Hand sand with 600 in one direction from spine to edge for a kind of satin finish.

If you want a shiny look on the scales, sand with 600 grit and 600 with water, polish with any good metal polish or a buffing wheel and Green Stainless polishing compound.

Cool razor, like the scales, good save.

Here are a couple of Squares where I use it on.

 

[bmiller3230]

Thanks. I'll definitely give Rustoleum Rust Reformer a shot

 

[Gamma]

Make a paste of lemon juice and salt and work it with a small stiff toothbrush. CLR is a good product, it works. Evaporust is a favorite with a lot of guys. Naval Jelly too.
A lot of those products will leave the steel matte. I prefer to leave things matte or maybe satin so I avoid polishing much afterwards.

You might consider wrapping a bit of 220x w/d around a toothpick and grinding the rust in the pivot hole out.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Nice job!

I usually use wet/dry sandpaper with WD-40. I also clean the pivot hole with sandpaper.

 

[bmiller3230]

@Gamma and @Frank Shaves Good advice and will do. Just got in what I needed to re-assemble and will post final pics when I do.