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What blade works best in a Henson razor?

I was trying out, in the past 2 weeks, the Henson with Treet Platinums. I was pleasantly surprised that it provided very smooth, consistent shaves. I would say above Astra blades. I will continue trying them out until I finish the whole 10-blade pack. But so far, I'm quite impressed.

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I was trying out, in the past 2 weeks, the Henson with Treet Platinums. I was pleasantly surprised that it provided very smooth, consistent shaves. I would say above Astra blades. I will continue trying them out until I finish the whole 10-blade pack. But so far, I'm quite impressed.

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I may have to give those a try!
 
4th and final shave with the 7 O'Clock SharpEdge Yellow, and it was another excellent shave. By that I mean 3 full passes and touch ups leading to BBS, irritation free shave, and there is no reason I couldn't be happy using such a blade exclusively if they were all like that. Unfortunately they haven't been, but as I said previously, that may not be the blade's fault. I still have more left in the tuck, so experimentation will continue down the road, but for now my impression is that this is very good blade, and will definitely get another look. Next up: Wilkinson Sword (Germany)
 
2 shaves now in the books with the Wilkinson Sword made in Germany, and I'm loving it so far! One shave with SV Felce Aromatica, and one with MdC Fougere. 3 full passes each time, with touch ups. Made sure to use light pressure and pay attention to direction of the stroke. In so many ways, it's as if I'm learning to shave all over again, and the results are impressive all the way around. The German Wilkinson Sword seems both sharp and smooth - a wet shaver's dream. Similar to the GSB, I don't really feel it on my skin, yet my face felt really smooth after the first pass with the grain, and only got smoother with each additional pass. The post-shave alum block gave some very minor stinging on the throat, but there is no lasting irritation. Based on the first two shaves, this blade is already a favorite. It works, and just feels good.
 
3rd shave with the German made Wilkinson Sword was more of the same - outstanding. 3 full passes and touch ups with SV Felce Aromatica soap. The result was another close, comfortable shave (BBS).
 
4th and final shave with the German Wilkinson Sword. MdC Fougere was the soap. I didn't go for BBS today, just did 2 passes (WTG and XTG), followed by some touch-up. Wow - what a great shave. Literally BBS on the face, and pretty close on the throat and neck. DFS for sure. The post shave alum block revealed zero irritation. Man, I love this blade.

This was the last of my new blades to try. Before I started this experiment to find the best blade for my Henson, I had used Astra SPs exclusively for well over a year, maybe two. So, before I wrap things up, I will do 4 shaves with the Astras for comparison, then post a final ranking and give my impressions and thoughts.
 
So, I circled back to the Astra SP, which I had used exclusively for years before starting this experiment with new blades. 4 Shaves in the books with the Astra over the last 8 days, and here's my take on those. The first shave, 3 full passes WTG/XTG/ATG, was very smooth and close. Barely felt the blade on my face. I got a legit BBS shave, and at the time, felt no irritation. My face felt great and I kept rubbing it afterward, marveling at how smooth it was. After a few hours however, I glanced in the mirror and saw some significant razor burn on both sides of my throat. I waited a few days before shaving again, giving the irritation time to heal, and did another 3-pass shave, this time being very careful with prep and technique, and again the shave itself was extremely smooth and comfortable. I did notice that there was some tugging when I went ATG, and I got significant stinging with the alum block. Still, this was another incredibly smooth, BBS shave. Again, a few hours later and even the next day, I had significant razor burn on the throat and a few other spots. On the 3rd shave a couple of days later, I just did 2 full passes with touch up ATG as needed, and I realized this blade is not as sharp as others that were part of my experiment. I still got a good shave, but the irritation persisted. 4th shave was 3 full passes again, and was perfectly acceptable, very close and smooth, and only minor irritation this time. Conclusion: The Astra SP is a very smooth blade, and I got a few really good shaves out of it, but I think my beard, with the Henson razor, requires a sharper blade.

Final ranking (for now):

1. Gillette Nacet Stainless - great combination of sharp and smooth; felt great on my face.
2. Bic Chrome Platinum - maybe the sharpest of the bunch, and still plenty smooth.
3. Tie: Gillette Silver Blue and Wilkinson Sword (Germany) - both felt incredibly smooth, and still plenty sharp enough.
4. Personna Lab Blue - Much like the GSB and WSG, but barely nudged out. Still a fantastic blade.
5. 7 O'Clock Yellow - a mixed bag; some really good shaves, some not so great.
6. Gillette PermaSharp (Russian) - very sharp, but a bit rough on my face.
7. Astra SP - Very smooth, but I need a sharper blade in my Henson.

Of course, YMMV. Greatly.

Aside from learning about differences in blades, a huge takeaway for me was the role prep and technique plays in all of this. Even though I've been wet shaving for 15 years now, I learned a great deal through this recent process. I have learned how important it is to take your time, pay attention to things like using light pressure and letting the blade do the work, learning the direction of beard growth on different parts of my face and throat and then shaving accordingly, and careful, proper touch ups to finish the job. And all of that may be different with different blades. It's an ongoing, learning process.

I am going to cycle back through all of the blades once again, and will update as needed. All of these blades were very good, and I'm convinced that if I stuck with any one of them, I could get it dialed in and get great shaves. I hope this has been informative and maybe helpful, or at least interesting to some.
 
UPDATE: I've been cycling back through the same blades again, and I wanted to comment on the Gillette PermaSharp. First time around, I got some rough shaves with it, and overall did not have a good experience. I loaded up with a PermaSharp this morning, and had a very different experience. The blade felt great on my face; sharp, smooth, and comfortable. The result was BBS. I don't know if the difference this time was something I did differently (I don't know what it could be) or if I just had a bad blade previously, but I'm glad I tried it again.

Note: I have found that anytime I do 3 full passes and go for BBS, I wind up with redness/irritation on both sided of my throat. Not necessarily weepers or stinging, just what looks like a rash. It happens with any blade, and happened today with the PermaSharp. While there have been a few exceptions, it happens no matter how careful I am with prep and technique. I have pretty much come to accept that I have to choose between BBS with some redness, and leaving a little patchy stubble on the throat minus the redness.
 
WOW. 3rd shave with the PermaSharp (Round 2 with this blade) and it was an incredibly fine shave. As BBS, comfortable, and irritation free as possible. Even BBS with 3 full passes on the throat, with almost no redness or irritation. I was disappointed after round 1 with the PermaSharp, as I did not get good shaves. This time has been very different. Don't know what's different, but it just shows that you shouldn't give up on a blade with one less than stellar experience.
 
So, I circled back to the Astra SP, which I had used exclusively for years before starting this experiment with new blades. 4 Shaves in the books with the Astra over the last 8 days, and here's my take on those. The first shave, 3 full passes WTG/XTG/ATG, was very smooth and close. Barely felt the blade on my face. I got a legit BBS shave, and at the time, felt no irritation. My face felt great and I kept rubbing it afterward, marveling at how smooth it was. After a few hours however, I glanced in the mirror and saw some significant razor burn on both sides of my throat. I waited a few days before shaving again, giving the irritation time to heal, and did another 3-pass shave, this time being very careful with prep and technique, and again the shave itself was extremely smooth and comfortable. I did notice that there was some tugging when I went ATG, and I got significant stinging with the alum block. Still, this was another incredibly smooth, BBS shave. Again, a few hours later and even the next day, I had significant razor burn on the throat and a few other spots. On the 3rd shave a couple of days later, I just did 2 full passes with touch up ATG as needed, and I realized this blade is not as sharp as others that were part of my experiment. I still got a good shave, but the irritation persisted. 4th shave was 3 full passes again, and was perfectly acceptable, very close and smooth, and only minor irritation this time. Conclusion: The Astra SP is a very smooth blade, and I got a few really good shaves out of it, but I think my beard, with the Henson razor, requires a sharper blade.

Final ranking (for now):

1. Gillette Nacet Stainless - great combination of sharp and smooth; felt great on my face.
2. Bic Chrome Platinum - maybe the sharpest of the bunch, and still plenty smooth.
3. Tie: Gillette Silver Blue and Wilkinson Sword (Germany) - both felt incredibly smooth, and still plenty sharp enough.
4. Personna Lab Blue - Much like the GSB and WSG, but barely nudged out. Still a fantastic blade.
5. 7 O'Clock Yellow - a mixed bag; some really good shaves, some not so great.
6. Gillette PermaSharp (Russian) - very sharp, but a bit rough on my face.
7. Astra SP - Very smooth, but I need a sharper blade in my Henson.

Of course, YMMV. Greatly.

Aside from learning about differences in blades, a huge takeaway for me was the role prep and technique plays in all of this. Even though I've been wet shaving for 15 years now, I learned a great deal through this recent process. I have learned how important it is to take your time, pay attention to things like using light pressure and letting the blade do the work, learning the direction of beard growth on different parts of my face and throat and then shaving accordingly, and careful, proper touch ups to finish the job. And all of that may be different with different blades. It's an ongoing, learning process.

I am going to cycle back through all of the blades once again, and will update as needed. All of these blades were very good, and I'm convinced that if I stuck with any one of them, I could get it dialed in and get great shaves. I hope this has been informative and maybe helpful, or at least interesting to some.
Great diary, and as you noted, these experiments get you to focus on technique and other peripheral factors.

I seem to need quite a few blades over a period of time to establish a pattern.

One thing I continually find myself revisiting is that many of the Russisn Gillettes (PPI factory) tend to settle in after the first shave. I used to think it was an adaptation thing (technique) but more and more, I'm thinking that the coating is wearing in. This is the kind of thing you can verify by running two more blades back to back as opposed to switching immediately, as is the fashion over here.

Another sharp but smooth blade is the old stock Wizamet Iridium. To my face they're like a Personna PC, that's dialed up by a half "click". I have not tried Polsilvers.

... Thom
 
UPDATE: Shocker! I was in a big hurry about 2 weeks ago and did a one-pass shave with a Gillette Mach 3, and I was pretty impressed. So, a few days later, I gave it another go, took my time, and the results were incredible. Next time, i made two passes, one north/south, and one south/north and it was the smoothest, closest, most irritation-free shave I've had in I don't know when. No weepers, no redness, no ingrowns. Just a pleasant, easy-peasy shave, with a BBS result. I know it's blasphemy to many, but I've come full circle. I can get a Damn Fine Shave every time with one pass. Two and it's BBS every time. What a long, strange trip it's been!
 
UPDATE: Shocker! I was in a big hurry about 2 weeks ago and did a one-pass shave with a Gillette Mach 3, and I was pretty impressed. So, a few days later, I gave it another go, took my time, and the results were incredible. Next time, i made two passes, one north/south, and one south/north and it was the smoothest, closest, most irritation-free shave I've had in I don't know when. No weepers, no redness, no ingrowns. Just a pleasant, easy-peasy shave, with a BBS result. I know it's blasphemy to many, but I've come full circle. I can get a Damn Fine Shave every time with one pass. Two and it's BBS every time. What a long, strange trip it's been!
It's amazing what you can do with a Mach 3 after you've improved your technique and lather. I was surprised to see that @Marco regularly runs a Mach 3, but I understand why.

In a current thread I advised someone to stick with their cartridge for a month or more while learning how to lather. Prep is underappreciated by noobs, and while understanding technique is important (even with a cart), I think it's important to nail your lather before adding more variables into the mix.

... Think
 

Marco

B&B's Man in Italy
It's amazing what you can do with a Mach 3 after you've improved your technique and lather. I was surprised to see that @Marco regularly runs a Mach 3, but I understand why.

In a current thread I advised someone to stick with their cartridge for a month or more while learning how to lather. Prep is underappreciated by noobs, and while understanding technique is important (even with a cart), I think it's important to nail your lather before adding more variables into the mix.

... Think
Sir, when you have under your belt decades of experience and a very solid technique you can use anything. I can get a comfortable shave with any kind of razor ever made. And yes, I like carts too. The Gillette Mach 3 is my top pick: quick, easy, smooth.
 
Sir, when you have under your belt decades of experience and a very solid technique you can use anything. I can get a comfortable shave with any kind of razor ever made. And yes, I like carts too. The Gillette Mach 3 is my top pick: quick, easy, smooth.
I've only been DE shaving for about 15 months, and my cart razor was a Mach 3 for as long as it's been in production. Before that (if I recall), I spent a decade or so with a Trac II.

I've kept the Mach 3 as my air travel razor, but I haven't traveled by air in the past 15 months. I've been meaning to bring his razor back into the rotation for a while, and this conversation inspired me to load a fresh Mach 3 blade today.

I've been re-visiting 1st principles lately. For example, I returned to bowl lathering for the first time in about 8 months. I find that revisiting your assumptions from time to time to be extremely beneficial. It helps guard against confirmation bias.

To the point, I wanted to see how 15 months of developing my lathering and shaving technique applied to this razor.

It does!!! I had a great shave today.

... Thom
 
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