What the bevel looks like as you go through a progression

leighton · #1 09-16-2009, 11:15 PM

Ok, I've had this idea in my head for the past two weeks, but haven't had time to do anything about it. Anyway, the following is a simply a series of photos showing the bevel at different grits along my progression.

600
1,000
5,000
8,000
12,000
~30,000

Enjoy!

leighton · #2 09-16-2009, 11:16 PM

And, the last one. ~30,000

Sorry about the focus. Camera & razor did not want to cooperate with me tonight.

chess1 · #3 09-17-2009, 12:18 AM

what is the magnification?

Emmett · #4 09-17-2009, 06:16 AM

Cool!

jendeindustries · #5 09-17-2009, 06:44 AM

Leighton,

I was wondering what it might look like. I'm glad you posted this. Is there any way to get 30x or so on those? (or was that 30x already?)

Thanks!

Seraphim · #6 09-17-2009, 09:07 AM

Progression on AL02 lapping film:

5um

3um

1um

0.3um

0.3um on paper

These were super quick, I did a quick hone and took a pic under the scope at 200x, so they look a bit rougher than I could get them. The Al02 films also leave a slurry, which accounts for the extraneous scratch marks on there. Diamond films are bonded much better and leave acleaner surface for each grit.

An example, the finish on 1um diamond film 200x magnification:

chess1 · #7 09-17-2009, 12:35 PM

Seraphim would you please put final edge picture 100x and 200x . i would like to compare them. Same edge in different magnification?
in my microscope in 200x i don't see nothing just straight line.

Seraphim · #8 09-17-2009, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chess1

Seraphim would you please put final edge picture 100x and 200x . i would like to compare them. Same edge in different magnification?
in my microscope in 200x i don't see nothing just straight line.

Those images were taken months ago. So I cannot go back and look at it again.

richmondesi · #9 09-17-2009, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seraphim

Those images were taken months ago. So I cannot go back and look at it again.

That paper under the lapping film made a huge difference in the pictures. Is the shave perceptively different? Also, what's the methodology that you are using?

shkorc · #10 09-18-2009, 04:22 AM

Seraphim, these shots were taken with a USB microscope? They look amazing

Seraphim · #11 09-21-2009, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shkorc

Seraphim, these shots were taken with a USB microscope? They look amazing

No, they were taken at the lab I work at with a $12,000 research grade scope. Thus they look pretty sharp. The scope goes up to 1000x too....

Ray-man · #12 09-22-2009, 10:06 AM

Here are photos through 16k honing. These are at 200x

Here is a photo after the bevel has been set on 1k hone.

Attachment 67526

Here is a photo after 3k honing.

Attachment 67527

Now after 5k honing.

Attachment 67528

After 8k polish:

Attachment 67529

And finally after 16k polish

The photos are always grainy on the USB microscope. I only use it because I have issues with the one from the Shack. I wear bi-focals, need I say more. I basically only use this scope for 2 reasons. First is to be able to send photos to clients to explain better any issues I might have with their blade. Secona, and most important, I can verify absolutly there is no microchips or edge crumbling during or after honing.

Enjoy!

Ray

Basset · #13 09-29-2009, 07:28 PM

Here's one after Naniwa 12k. Specks on edge are dust and skin (from wipe down), not ridges.

chess1 · #14 09-30-2009, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray-man

Here are photos through 16k honing. These are at 200x

Here is a photo after the bevel has been set on 1k hone.

Attachment 67526

Here is a photo after 3k honing.

Attachment 67527

Now after 5k honing.

Attachment 67528

After 8k polish:

Attachment 67529

And finally after 16k polish

The photos are always grainy on the USB microscope. I only use it because I have issues with the one from the Shack. I wear bi-focals, need I say more. I basically only use this scope for 2 reasons. First is to be able to send photos to clients to explain better any issues I might have with their blade. Secona, and most important, I can verify absolutly there is no microchips or edge crumbling during or after honing.

Enjoy!

Ray

Ray links doesn't work. i have not seen any of them. i do have 200x and i hate it. it is useless in my opinion. what happen it is too much magnification and you see edge straight actually it is not straight. it misses all small chips which you will see on 100x mag.
hope this helps.

Seraphim · #15 09-30-2009, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basset

Here's one after Naniwa 12k. Specks on edge are dust and skin (from wipe down), not ridges.

Sweet polish on that bevel!

You may be surprised to find that under higher mag, those bright spots are actually irregularities in the very edge.

I just placed an order for a Nani 12k today! I'm looking forward to it!

mparker762 · #16 09-30-2009, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basset

Here's one after Naniwa 12k. Specks on edge are dust and skin (from wipe down), not ridges.

Those bright streaks along the edge are almost certainly burrs. Have you tried giving it a few (2-3) laps on chrome oxide, or a blast from a can of compressed air?

leighton · #17 09-30-2009, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basset

Here's one after Naniwa 12k. Specks on edge are dust and skin (from wipe down), not ridges.

What magnification is that? Looks like 10 maybe.

Bacchus · #18 10-01-2009, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mparker762

a blast from a can of compressed air?

That's a new one to me

Sullybob · #19 10-01-2009, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basset

Here's one after Naniwa 12k. Specks on edge are dust and skin (from wipe down), not ridges.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bacchus

That's a new one to me

I think that mparker is saying that if it is skin and dust a blast of compressed air will remove them and he will have a smooth bevel, if the compressed air does not remove them, then he has some visible imperfections in his edge.