Corking blades?

**tsmba** · 07-14-2009, 06:13 AM

I once read about doing this (running a new blade's edge through a cork to knock off the burr) and it makes sense, but I haven't done it. I do it every time I sharpen a knife, actually several times, using the 2x6 I use to lay my stones on. I got a good deal of schooling ala Murray Carter and this is how he does it, so that's good enough for me.
I thought of this after reading someone's comment about getting the best shaves the 2nd or 3rd time after changing blades. I'm going to put a cork next to my blade box right now.
Any comments?

**mmack66** · 07-14-2009, 06:49 AM

As with most things here, some folks swear by it and others think it is worthless. I cork a blade every now and then, when I remember to. It seems like it might have a positive effect, but I am not very scientific when it comes to recording results.

**Koss** · 07-14-2009, 06:56 AM

I've never heard of this. So you just run the edge lengthwise over a piece of Cork?

**82R100** · 07-14-2009, 07:03 AM

Originally Posted by Koss

I've never heard of this. So you just run the edge lengthwise over a piece of Cork?

Yup, very gently, just to the depth of the bevel. One of the many theories is that it might remove burrs left over from manufacturing. Another is that is just dulls the edge a bit.

I cork each blade before use. It certainly doesn't seem to make them dull, as far as I can tell and, if nothing else, it helps remove some of the packaging glue from the cutting edge, where that's a problem.

- Chris

**Koss** · 07-14-2009, 07:21 AM

Originally Posted by 82R100

Yup, very gently, just to the depth of the bevel. One of the many theories is that it might remove burrs left over from manufacturing. Another is that is just dulls the edge a bit.

I cork each blade before use. It certainly doesn't seem to make them dull, as far as I can tell and, if nothing else, it helps remove some of the packaging glue from the cutting edge, where that's a problem.

- Chris

That makes sense. Touching up a normal blade edge is pretty much the same thing. Smoothes over the surface of the cutting edge.

**_JP_** · 07-14-2009, 09:08 AM

It seems to make sense until one realizes that the blade manufacturer does everything they can to create a sharp edge without a burr. They would be shipping dull blades if they did that, which they don't want to do.

**dpm802** · 07-14-2009, 09:27 AM

Originally Posted by mmack66

As with most things here, some folks swear by it and others think it is worthless. I cork a blade every now and then, when I remember to. It seems like it might have a positive effect, but I am not very scientific when it comes to recording results.

Same here ... I've tried corking a few blades, but most of the time, I forget to do it.

If it made a dramatic difference, I would do it every time ... but I haven't really noticed any big improvement.

**gratewhitehuntr** · 07-14-2009, 10:09 AM

hmmm.... has anyone looked at a corked vs uncorked under a microscope?

maybe I'll try this with a straight ...........

**Charon2000** · 07-14-2009, 10:33 AM

When I first started using Feathers I liked the sharpness but they lacked the smoothness I got from Crystals or Red Packs. I read about corking and gave it a try. The corking appeared to provide more smoothness without losing any sharpness.

I kept up this practice until one day I forgot to cork the blade, and actually didn't notice any difference at all. So perhaps it was all my imagination. Or maybe over time my technique improved (light pressure in particular) and/or my face adjusted to the blade. Regardless, I no longer cork my Feathers as I really don't notice much of a difference either way.

Jay

**Jatte** · 07-14-2009, 10:43 AM

ive looked at the corked blades under a microscope, all it does is remove the burr, filings and any other crap, the rough stuff, , turns your feather into a second shave feather witout suffering through the first,

more than anything else, i find it makes crystals and derbys super super smooth,
Now , there is a bit of a trick to it though, if you push down into the cork you will dull the blade,

what you should do is hold the cork in the left hand, with top and bottom of the cork being held by like thumb and first finger, then alighthe blade so that as you pull it creates a groove and the edge slides through the groove, dont start on top and push down then pull, the corner of the blade is sharp enough to just create the path, this way it works very well,

some people also go around the edge of the blade pinching and pulling around the surface, and find that it works better than corking because it is strictly a strop motion, not a cut motion

**stripec30** · 07-14-2009, 10:52 AM

Scientific examination not withstanding I've found the corked blades provide the right amount of 'dullness'.

**Confilo** · 07-14-2009, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by Charon2000

When I first started using Feathers I liked the sharpness but they lacked the smoothness I got from Crystals or Red Packs. I read about corking and gave it a try. The corking appeared to provide more smoothness without losing any sharpness.

I kept up this practice until one day I forgot to cork the blade, and actually didn't notice any difference at all. So perhaps it was all my imagination. Or maybe over time my technique improved (light pressure in particular) and/or my face adjusted to the blade. Regardless, I no longer cork my Feathers as I really don't notice much of a difference either way.

Jay

I also cork my Feathers. it is like stropping and the reason is that Feathers IMO are not consistent. I find that corking helps making it smooth.
It has to be done lightly and not deep

**PaulUK** · 07-14-2009, 11:29 AM

I only ever tried it on some (very cheap) "Dinosaur blades" from China. These were incredibly rough and moderately sharp.
After corking, they were incredibly rough and blunt.

Still a lot of regulars swear by corking for feathers. It works for some people.

...just don't bother trying it with cheap rubbish blades

**infotech** · 07-14-2009, 11:43 AM

This seems to me like another one of those "blade flip" things. I've found blades that aren't rough the first time out and are as sharp and smooth as I want them for multiple shaves. I just don't see the point in handling a sharp razor blade more than necessary and adding more time in the bathroom not shaving...

**gratewhitehuntr** · 07-14-2009, 12:06 PM

wow

I'll have to try this with a Feather (have 4 left LOL )

**tsmba** · 07-15-2009, 06:22 AM

Thanks for the tips, guys! I've also tried the "blade flip" to see if it allows me to squeeze out another shave or two. The idea behind corking seems sound, but like others, whether I remember to do it is up for debate. Steeling knives and stropping razors is SOP, so some form of DE dressing seems to make good sense.

**MoreSaltThanPepper** · 07-15-2009, 06:28 AM

Not to beat the obvious here but why not strop the blade against your palm? I finish my pocket knives and straights this way.

You would have to be thinking about something else entirely to cut yourself when you're using a strop motion.

**sonny123** · 07-15-2009, 09:54 AM

hmm might have to try this

**Little Blade** · 07-15-2009, 10:12 AM

First of all shaving is all about the burr! When you strop a blade what you actually do is pull the burr to the front of the blade. The cork method works extremely well on normal knives, because if you don't remove the burr and use the blade for general work you round the burr over or break it off causing a prematurely dulled blade. I have used this method and have found IMO that just before final sharpening of a knife use the cork and then touch up the edge with your final 5 or so strokes. As far as the razor is concerned you are better off stropping the burr forward, not removing it, since you do not shave perpendicular to your face. If you think I'm wrong about all of this then I understand, after all what does a saddle maker know about a blade. Have fun shaving all!