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Do I need a sharper blade, more aggressive razor or...?

OK, I just finished my 6th shave with my DE razor. I'm doing pretty well, no cuts so far, and my face feels fantastic. The trouble is that there are some parts of my face, mostly under my jawline, that simply refuse to be shaved smooth. I run my hand across my shaven face after the second, atg pass, and I still feel the stubble in those parts.

Like I said, the rest of my face and neck are really nice. I think that makes me ever crazier about those last little parts that don't shave as well. It doesn't seem to matter how often or what direction I go over those areas, they just won't get cut all the way down. So I'm thinking something needs to change. Will a sharper blade help? How about a more aggressive razor? I'm a little worried about those things since I haven't been getting any cuts, irritation, or ingrowns so far... Any help will be appreciated, thanks!

Isaac
 
It is probably too early to tell. You should experiment with different blades and see if you can find one that works better for you. Do not be afraid of a sharp blade. If you are not getting nicks with your current blade you likely will not get nicks with a sharper blade either. It will simply mow down your whiskers with less effort.

Whether or not you need a more aggressive razor has to do with your beard type and personal preference. Some people can get by with a Superspeed or a Tech but I prefer something more aggressive. As you experiment with different razors and blades your preferences will reveal themselves. Enjoy the journey!
 
It seems to take some time for a lot of us when we start to get just what we are looking for in a shave when we convert to a DE or straight. You might try a sharper blade that might help I really never got what i was looking for until i started using feathers. I tried a lot of blades and every time i thought i found nirvana i would keep increasing the sharpness of the blade i was using until i settled in with Feathers..
We are all different so just keep tweaking your shaves and see what works for you and work on your technique....
 
If you think you want a more agressive razor, you could experiment with a more agressive blade angle. No, it's probably not the same as a more agressive razor, but it could provide some feedback without springing for a new razor.
 
Take a look at Mantics Advanced Shaving Techniques videos if you haven't already. Under the chin (and on the chin) is a tough place for me too. I pretty much always rely on J-Hooking and Blade Buffing those areas. The J-Hooking helps when the razor's catching too much, especially getting ATG strokes started. The Blade Buffing really hones down the last bit of stubble. I still don't get it all the way down to BBS, but it's pretty darn close.

You might also want to try hand stropping your blade between shaves to keep it well toned for each shave. Here's a link on it. Not between each pass, between each day's shave.
 
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Since general irritation doesn't seem to be part of your current experience, you could try some locally aggressive tactics, specifically blade buffing or J-hooking. You'll want to see the Mantic59 videos if you're not fully familiar with these.

I spent the first 4-5 weeks with one DE razor (a 1957 Gillette Super Speed) in an effort to refine my technique before experimenting with other variables. As soon as I tried my Gem razor I got an eye opening improvement in what you're describing, and I ascribe that partially to the razor's greater agression. After that, I returned to DE, but to my adjustable DE and demonstrated to myself that I could increase blade gap (by upping the adjustment) with no decrease in shaving comfort, and better address the hard to buff areas of my face. This would not have worked in my first month or so, because I was still struggling with blade angle and resultant razor burn.

So I'd recommend some localized aggression (in the form of blade buffing) and if that doesn't get you where you want to be, try a sharper blade and/or a more agressive razor, but try to change just one thing at a time.

- Chris
 
G

gone down south

2nd pass is ATG? Try doing a couple XTG's first, there just may be too much beard left behind for an ATG to fully chop through.
 
I appreciate the comments so far. I will try a sharper blade at some point. I'm more interested in these techniques that have been mentioned, any links to the videos?
 
I agree with the last post...although I read that statement as he made two ATG passes with no results...implying he had already done multiple WTG passes...but still, I shave my passes with my cream and brush...then for my underchin area, I have to rinse my face, feel around for loose stubs...then I apply just water only and blade buff the trouble spot and that seems to get it without irritating my face...and FYI i am either using a slim set to 6 or 7, or my red tip...usually bladed with feathers or red personnas...
 
Yeah, sorry for not being clearer. I have a pretty thin beard, so I usually only have to do one with the grain pass and then one against, and I'm done. The rest of my face feels fantastic with just those two passes. In addition, I've found that I can go three days afterwards with no problem, although I usually shave every other day just cause I like how my face feels afterwards...

I try every which way with the trouble areas, but I go with the grain the first time. When the against doesn't work, I try going across, and then against, then across, and then there is some muttering involved because the damn stuff is still there. Think I'm going to order some Red personnas...
 
Wow, just watched the videos, and the blade buffing thing looks SCARY! I'll try the j hook thing first, any idea why it would work where multiple passes in different directions don't?
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
+1 on the above,

You should be able to achieve a smooth shave with some touch-ups. However, I think it's a bit early to aim for that after 6 shaves. If you think that you can do it, my only advice would be to take your time.
 
Actually, I think most people find J-Hooking more difficult than Blade Buffing because you're changing directions in a quick little stroke. Not sure I find one more difficult than the other. Where I find J-Hooking most benefitial is when I'm running ATG. A lot of times, when I'm just starting my ATG stroke, my razor hangs up. The J-Hook lets start XTG, get a little blade momentum and move ATG. Blade Buffing actually works better for me reducing that last little bit of stubble. The key to Blade Buffing is keeping a light touch on the razor. I'm caught a bit in the middle on what to recommend for you. I agree with Luc on getting some more experience, but if you're not getting any nicks or razor burn anyway, it's probably time to try a little more agression. You can always back off if you get nicks or burn, and I'd try more advanced techniques before a more advanced razor.
 
You say you're having trouble just under the jaw line. The most likely suspect is that you aren't rotating the blade properly as you go over the jawline so as to keep the correct blade angle. Seems to me you should put off the advanced techniques for a bit, and try to improve how you handle those curves.
 
I'll try just being a little more aggressive. It doesn't sound like the j hook thing is really going to help, I don't have any trouble with the blade "hanging." Honestly, I doubt it's a blade angle thing, I have been varying it so much just trying to get some bite there... Anyway, thanks for the ideas, hopefully between a little aggression and maybe some new blades I'll have this thing licked.
 
Slant.
Nothing mows down whiskers on the ATG pass better than a slant(aside from straights)

I assume that you are using a Merkur, probably an HD?
If you go buy a HD slant, it will feel the same, and you can jump right in.

Ignore the horror stories about the slant being "the devil's own" razor. It is no worse than anything else, but needs to completely avoid lateral movement, even moreso than a regular DE.

Straights are tricky on some of the tighter areas, like on my neck, the right hand side under my chin, the ATG pass is across my neck, from ear to chin.
There is no physical way for me to do a true ATG pass without digging the toe or heel into my neck. Not a problem for the slant though :biggrin:
 
What razor and blade are you using now?

I'm currently using a Parker something or other and the SHARP blades that came with it. I know, people have complained about both of those, but I really am getting great shaves with those things for the most part. It might be because I have a fairly fine hair and it doesn't grow all that quickly. Feeling my face today, a full 24 hours after my last shave, I only feel a patch or two of stubble. Guess where those are...

I am going to try some more blades but I think I'll keep using this razor for the time being. I haven't had any cuts or irritation yet, and I haven't even done what would be a weeks worth of shaving for some guys.

Last night, in a fit of weakness, I ordered some stuff from Ogallala. It was mostly to take advantage of some great pricing on the aftershave, but I'm getting a shave stick in as well... This won't help with the problems I mentioned in this thread, but it'll be nice to have this stuff!:)
 
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