How do you go about sharpening your pocket knives?

[sapito318]

Ok, so I am quite ignorant about sharpening knives, and only somewhat ignorant about sharpening straight razors . So, I know at least that there are major differences in the sharpening techniques you should use for the two. For instance, you would probably not want to strop a knife on your leather strop, nor would you want to sharpen your blade flat on a hone like you would a straight edge.

So, do you just hone it like you would a straight edge, only making sure to have it angled properly?

I own a benchmade mini griptilian 1/2 serr which I really love but do not know how to keep its edge keen... Also, would like to know how you sharpen the serrated edge. Any advice is appreciated.

[boboakalfb]

Spyderco Tri Angle Sharpmaker works great for Plain Edge and Serrations as well.

[sapito318]

Thanks for that! Looks like I'll be picking one of those up...

[sapito318]

Is it necessary to also purchase the Ultra Fine and Diamond stones?

[M. McCord]

I like the Lansky Professional system. I've used it since 1992 and I'm able to achieve extremely sharp edges on all my pocket knives. I do strop the blades often between sharpening.

[TorzJohnson]

The sharpmaker and the lansky will work great. If you use a stone, you are correct that you don't want to sharpen it flat on the stone, but you want to use about a 15 degree angle. And you definitely can strop a knife, I do it all the time.

[Fnord5]

I like the Lansky Professional system. I've used it since 1992 and I'm able to achieve extremely sharp edges on all my pocket knives. I do strop the blades often between sharpening.

+1
www.lansky.com
Been using them for years, and can get a flawless edge while watching a movie.

[NBS 4life]

I have many chisels and other sharp tools for my work and I keep then all sharp using an incredibly fine grinding wheel (foot operated) then I use very fine wet and dry sand paper then finish them off with a diamond pad. This works well for me and I rely heavily on razor sharp tools.

It takes a little time to get used to using the correct angle etc but it allows me to customise my cutting angle.

[TimmyBoston]

Spyderco Tri Angle Sharpmaker works great for Plain Edge and Serrations as well.

I'm far from an expert, but this is what I use and I really like it and I recommend it to anyone wanting to put a good edge on either a kitchen or a pocket knife.

[SRock]

Spyderco Tri Angle Sharpmaker works great for Plain Edge and Serrations as well.

I've been using one of these for a while now. I take it on deployments and sharpen knives for my buddies as well.

It'll work very well for you.

[TedGamble]

SharpMaker rocks!!!

I do not use the 40 degree setting on the S/M. All of my knives have a 25 degree back-bevel with a 30 degree primary micro bevel. I use an EdgePro to set and polish the back bevel initially, then use the S/M for touch ups.

The S/M rods will not remove lots of steel quickly, so if your edge is higher than the 30 or 40 degree angles of the S/M, you may be in for a long haul getting your back bevel to match. The diamond rods help with more aggressive steel removal in these situations. You can get them for $44 at KnivesPlus.com.

The Ultra Fine rods do an excellent job of polishing the edge, however you have to ask yourself what the primary use of your knife will be. If you want to impress your buds by tree-topping arm hairs, yes you will need the U/F rods. However, if you are using your knife for what it was intended (cutting cardboard, wire, opening packages, field dressing game, etc.), then the Fine rods will more than suffice. You can easily shave arm hair with an edge from the Fine rods, you just won't be able to go that extra step and tree-top the hair without the Ultra Fine rods. For my kitchen knives, the Fine rods are plenty sufficient.

Now, if you want atom-splitting sharpness, you owe it to yourself to take a look at the EdgePro.
Here are links to the Apex model (which is plenty sufficient for all except professional sharpeners):
http://www.edgeproinc.com/productsapex.html
http://www.accuratesharp.com/edge-pro.htm
http://bronksknifeworks.com/Edge_Pro...sharpeners.htm

[DS/B MCS]

SharpMaker rocks!!!

I do not use the 40 degree setting on the S/M. All of my knives have a 25 degree back-bevel with a 30 degree primary micro bevel. I use an EdgePro to set and polish the back bevel initially, then use the S/M for touch ups.

The S/M rods will not remove lots of steel quickly, so if your edge is higher than the 30 or 40 degree angles of the S/M, you may be in for a long haul getting your back bevel to match. The diamond rods help with more aggressive steel removal in these situations. You can get them for $44 at KnivesPlus.com.

The Ultra Fine rods do an excellent job of polishing the edge, however you have to ask yourself what the primary use of your knife will be. If you want to impress your buds by tree-topping arm hairs, yes you will need the U/F rods. However, if you are using your knife for what it was intended (cutting cardboard, wire, opening packages, field dressing game, etc.), then the Fine rods will more than suffice. You can easily shave arm hair with an edge from the Fine rods, you just won't be able to go that extra step and tree-top the hair without the Ultra Fine rods. For my kitchen knives, the Fine rods are plenty sufficient.

Now, if you want atom-splitting sharpness, you owe it to yourself to take a look at the EdgePro.
Here are links to the Apex model (which is plenty sufficient for all except professional sharpeners):
http://www.edgeproinc.com/productsapex.html
http://www.accuratesharp.com/edge-pro.htm
http://bronksknifeworks.com/Edge_Pro...sharpeners.htm

Nice post

I've been using the Sharpmaker for years and love the results. Biggest thing to remember is...Don't let your knife get dull - maintain the Edge

[sapito318]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I think I am going to go with the Sharpmaker...