options to epoxy knot back into handle?

**chfair** · 04-19-2009, 08:46 PM

well i had just finished shaving tonight and was giving my brush a shake to put it up to dry and the silvertip badger knot came loose and came out of the handle. had this brush for about 3 weeks now bought off the bay new (reputable seller but was the least expensive brush they had for sale), i am not at all surprised it came out as the handle itself is low quality leading me to believe this would happen at some point. my question is this, what are my options for getting this knot back in and sealed where i will not have to worry about it again? i need to be able to find the epoxy/glue/whatever works locally. have a few walmarts, a lowes, home depot and a bit farther out of town marine repair shops (however a lot of them are not open for the season yet).

what would be suggested? i have read that a lot of people use marine epoxy to get this job done and i searched the web to see if walmart and lowes had any. lowes carries a brand of marine epoxy but it is out of stock in my town and well if you search epoxy on walmart's web site you do not get results you would expect to find. was wondering if super glue or something like JBweld would work as an alternative?(rather something that was slightly easier to use than JBweld though)

thanks for the input and taking the time to read this

**cooncatbob** · 04-19-2009, 09:47 PM

Go to Home Depot and buy the epoxy with the slowest drying time.
Rough up the plug of the knot and the socket with some sandpaper.
Epoxy can be messy stuff so you may want to wrap the hair of your brush head with masking tape.
Mix your epoxy on something like a business card with a toothpick.
Carefully apply epoxy to the socket and the plug, insert plug in socket and carefully wipe up any squeeze out.
When the epoxy on the business card is dry so is the epoxy in the socket.
Set aside to cure over night.
The longer curing epoxy allows it to flow into all gaps giving good contact.

**galopede** · 04-20-2009, 12:41 AM

Don't know what brand names you have over there but I also make fixed blade knives and here in Britain we generally use Araldite (slow cure version) to fix handles to blades. Some people also use JBweld, which you mention but I've never found.

I've used the Araldite myself to refix a knot and it's as solid as a rock. I assume the JBweld would be the same. Don't think you need to go as far as specialised marine epoxy. Bit of an overkill unless you happened to have some around.

Cheers, Gareth

**Rudy Vey** · 04-20-2009, 01:59 AM

I use Devcon 2-part epoxy glue on all my pens and brushes.

**chfair** · 04-20-2009, 06:13 AM

thanks for the advice i will give it a go this afternoon and let it dry for 24 hours.

**five-o-clock shadow** · 04-21-2009, 04:52 AM

The amount of time the knot plug comes in contact with water is minimal so I would some what agree about marine epoxy being overkill. I let my brush soak in the sink while I shower so I do use marine grade but I have it hanging around from boat repairs. The thing you have to watch out for is whether the epoxy will 'stick' to what you are trying to put together. Porous material like a wooden handles are much different than hard plastic. There might be an initial bond but it will work free over time. Check the package to see what the manufacture recommends ( I am sure you didn't need me to tell you that

).A slow cure time is the best, from a working standpoint and overall bond, I have found. Hope it works out whatever you do.

**rickw** · 04-22-2009, 07:27 PM

M.E.K. (methyl ethyl keytone) should disolve the wet epoxy.

**aerodave** · 04-24-2009, 06:03 PM

For an application like this, the first thing I'd reach for is Gorilla Glue. It actually cures with moisture, so it's not at all intolerant of water. It's a very tenacious resin, and it even expands slightly when it dries, which helps to ensure solid grip between mating surfaces.

Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot, or most any big retailer will carry it. It's versatile and works great. A lot of things around my house are still in one piece thanks to that stuff.

**TheGrooveking** · 04-24-2009, 06:22 PM

Originally Posted by rickw

M.E.K. (methyl ethyl keytone) should disolve the wet epoxy.

I suggest that you wrap your handle with masking tape prior to the epoxying also. That way if epoxy gets on it, you can peel off the tape, thus remove the epoxy. If you don't have to use MEK don't, first off it's not good stuff for humans - it's been linked to cancer and is on the EPA's hit list in regards to not using it in industry.

Don't get me wrong MEK is some of the best solvent I've ever used, but I know people who have had long term exposure to it and they have/had problems. So if masking takes care of the root cause, i.e. smearing/excess epoxy, do that, then you won't need a quart can of bad stuff laying around the house.

**Rudy Vey** · 04-24-2009, 06:43 PM

Originally Posted by aerodave

For an application like this, the first thing I'd reach for is Gorilla Glue. It actually cures with moisture, so it's not at all intolerant of water. It's a very tenacious resin, and it even expands slightly when it dries, which helps to ensure solid grip between mating surfaces.

Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot, or most any big retailer will carry it. It's versatile and works great. A lot of things around my house are still in one piece thanks to that stuff.

I advise against the Gorilla glue!! This glue will foam like crazy and it will be so much that it will push out the knot completely. Believe me I used a lot of gorilla glue in my woodworking, and when ever you use these polyurethane glues, the work must be clamped, if not you can be highly disappointed

**LagerLover** · 04-24-2009, 07:02 PM

Silicon adhesive, like the caulk, worked for me. Six days now.

**riooso** · 04-24-2009, 07:13 PM

Alchol will dissolve wet Epoxy. No need for anything stronger.

Later,
Richard

**rickw** · 04-25-2009, 03:04 AM

Originally Posted by TheGrooveking

I suggest that you wrap your handle with masking tape prior to the epoxying also. That way if epoxy gets on it, you can peel off the tape, thus remove the epoxy. If you don't have to use MEK don't, first off it's not good stuff for humans - it's been linked to cancer and is on the EPA's hit list in regards to not using it in industry.

Don't get me wrong MEK is some of the best solvent I've ever used, but I know people who have had long term exposure to it and they have/had problems. So if masking takes care of the root cause, i.e. smearing/excess epoxy, do that, then you won't need a quart can of bad stuff laying around the house.

I agree about care in using solvents. I was in the aircraft industry for a number of years. There was one area of the building that had the open pump pots of tri chlor. I avoided that area most of the time or tried not to breath as I walked through.

**aerodave** · 04-26-2009, 08:06 PM

Originally Posted by Rudy Vey

I advise against the Gorilla glue!! This glue will foam like crazy and it will be so much that it will push out the knot completely. Believe me I used a lot of gorilla glue in my woodworking, and when ever you use these polyurethane glues, the work must be clamped, if not you can be highly disappointed

Well, that's why you only use a little