Cut-Throat -> opinions, brands etc.

**kuzmo** · 10-21-2006, 04:22 AM

Hi guys ... after a couple of days hard thinking, I still struggle

the problem is that I, somehow, am not as that interested in classic Merkur HD as to a classical Cut-Throat. Many people would think, that I am strange or something (as I appeared to a friend of mine whom I told about my hobby in shaving and when he saw me looking at this wet shaving forum) when I, a 20 years old guy, want to shave using a Cut-Throat. The problem with me is that I think it still has its magic

you know .... you come to bathroom, take out your shaving kit, start to sharpen the blade and then you shave like those old-fashioned 'gentlemen' did. I know that it will take A LOT of practice and probably would cut myself more than enough ... but still I want to master that Cut-Throat shaving. I would like to ask you about your opinion and probably if you would be so kind as to advice me which Cut-Throat to buy. I thought that my first Cut-Throat razor does not have to be a perfect piece (if I change my mind) so I found a cheap Cut-Throat set (Razor, Strop Paste And Double Sided Leather Strop) for only £24. I am, however, wondering whether it is not better to buy a 'branded' one. Please advice a struggling fella'

**AFDavis11** · 10-21-2006, 04:56 AM

Brands are less important than sharpness. Find one thats really sharp. A used one from someone who really knows how to sharpen one is the critical piece in being able to shave with one. Then when you get it don't shave with it, just look at it under a microscope and see what sharp looks like. Then shave and get yourself a hone. Then replicate what you saw in the microscope on another razor and again on your first razor in about a month when it goes dull.

Get a good strop, spend a little extra for a wider one with better quality.

Used razor from a honemiester at SRP $40 shipped

High quality strop from classicshaving.com $60
From Thewellshavedgentleman.com $50

Hone from Tilly (Redtrader99) on Ebay $30

Enjoying every shave for the rest of your life without ever having to buy or change a dulling blade . . . priceless.

**RueTheDay** · 10-21-2006, 08:34 AM

I picked up a Dovo straight and a 4 sided pasted paddle strop from Tony at thewellshavedgentleman.com and I highly recommend him. He hand hones the razors before shipping them out. I also picked up Lynn's DVD from straightrazorplace.com also recommended.

I've shaved with it twice so far - the first time I only did my sideburns and cheeks, the second time I did my entire face but only a with the grain pass; each time I finished up with my DE. I want to build my confidence up slowly. It's a skill that takes a little time to get.

**JohnP** · 10-21-2006, 09:40 AM

I will second the recommendation for Tony, and generally agree with the other gents who have already posted. I would also say beware of that "set" you purchased. Oftimes these consist of a Pakistani made razor which may or may not be a good example of what a straight can do. Most often, they are not. They will seem like a good razor, perhaps even take a good edge-but then the edge rolls over after about the fourth or fifth stroke, and starts to cause pain and discomfort. Contrast this to a better quality straight which will cut smooth as silk, the main difference between it and another razor is with many straights you can hear the hair being cut. Sortof a tink-tink-tink sound.
But I digress.
It's an addiction. It also will broaden your horizons. I can now shave with a MachIII, a Fusion, A DE, a GEM, a Rolls Razor...and pretty much any straight I can get an edge on.
The variety is the big thing for me. Others have their "favorite" razors.
I do not, although there are some I like more than others.
John P.

**catatonic** · 10-21-2006, 10:34 AM

Yep, beware of the low-buck ebay set....it's probably Zeepk or Sanguine....I've used the Sanguine kit....the strop is not worth it's materials while the razor is decent but is very fragile (and still not as sharp as a pre-honed).

I would go find a person that sells pre-honed razors. straightrazorplace has a whole list of "honemeisters", some of which sell pre-honed razors for varying amounts of money. Joe Chandler is my favorite, as his razors cost very little at all...so it's easy on my wallet to buy one of each size or blade style and see what I like best.

edit: I'm sorry if I sounded a bit harsh....really though, the strop sanguine sells was practically unusable. The "linen" side was some synthetic velvet, and the leather side was plastic coated, or so it seemed....there was no draw at all, no matter what you done to it. Even a pumice stone rub on the leather strop surface didn't cut through whatever treatment was on that leather. It just left me angry that I spent money on that strop and razor when I could have spent an extra $25 and recieved far superior materials.

**BroJohn** · 10-21-2006, 05:05 PM

My understanding is that the Pakistani razors siimply won't take an edge at all.

Shaving with a straight requires two sets of skills: sharpening, honing, stropping and caring for your kit; and then the art of shaving.

It simply takes some additional effort with a dual learning curve. I do 'okay' with a straight, but don't know that I'll ever master it.

-- John Gehman

**Howard** · 10-21-2006, 05:33 PM

Originally Posted by BroJohn

My understanding is that the Pakistani razors siimply won't take an edge at all.

I've heard that you can get the Pakistani razors sharp, but it only lasts a couple of strokes down the face before they're dull again. Apparently the steel is not up to holding an edge. I haven't tried one myself, after so many people I respect have told me they're worthless.

Just about any old German, English, or US made razor will be better, and cost about the same. However, it will take a bit of skill and effort to bring back to shaving sharpness. I've done it but I had years of experience sharpening knives before I tried my hand with a dull straight razor.

I endorse the opinion many here have given, send a decent razor to one of the "honemeisters," or buy a shave-ready one from them. Ask over at Straight Razor Place. Many of the gentlemen there go to great lengths to help out youngsters interested in the old ways of shaving.

**kuzmo** · 10-23-2006, 07:43 AM

thanks a lot guys ... i will check the 'well-shaved gentlemans' and other sources you provided. I did not buy that set yet. I was only considering it. But I will go and check those places you said. BTW is it so hard to hone your cut throat for the first time on your own that you recommend buying shave-ready one from an honemeister? or it is just to feel the difference and to see how shoulw it look like and work?

**Howard** · 10-23-2006, 08:05 AM

It is quite possible for you to hone up your own razor and learn to shave with it, especially if you already have some experience with sharpening. There is plenty of information on the web.

Things are more complicated that way though. If you start with a properly honed razor you can work on your shaving technique, without worrying if unsatisfactory results are because of your honing. Once you have the shaving part down, its easier to branch into honing because then you will know what a properly honed razor feels like, and be able to give yourself feedback on your honing technique.

If you do it yourself all the way, you have to stumble around sorting out honing and shaving technique at the same time.

**LX_Emergency** · 10-25-2006, 03:00 AM

If you want a cheap starter razor let me know. I have a bunch of them lying around. They're not lookers but they sure are functional. And with some elbow grease you might be able to make them look good as well.

**kuzmo** · 10-27-2006, 09:10 AM

thank you for offer will consider it. Btw do you think that straight razors with disposable blades are, somehow, not good?

**mparker762** · 10-27-2006, 10:16 AM

The Feather Artist Club is the best of the bunch, and the only one I'd consider using on a daily basis. The others (shavettes and similar razors) aren't something you really want to shave with very often, they're just too flimsy and light and short. They're fine for trimming sideburns and cleaning up the nape of the neck, though, which is why barbers are fine with them.

A real straight has a certain solidity and stability to it, when you're shaving it feels more like you're using it to wipe the whiskers off. With the little shavette-type razors you're always having to concentrate on not nicking yourself.

**JohnP** · 10-27-2006, 11:36 AM

It isn't that there is anything wrong with replaceable blade straights, but they do shave a bit differently than a regular straight. I have a Hess EZ-Shave replaceable blade straight that uses hair shaper blades or injector blades, probably would accept the feather blades also. It isn't bad at all and honestly I don't see how the feather is in anyway superior, but then, I haven't tried the feather straight.
I'd take Alex up on one of his straights if it were me, or go join SRP (you'll see some of us over there as well...) and see what folks have available.

Some of the best choices I've made when using a straight:

1. A good strop. Tony Miller (Well Shaved Gentleman) followed by Dovo/Jemico Russian red leather, followed by Illinois 302. Perhaps others are available to you, but new these are about all I've seen in awhile here. Make sure you have a nice supple finish on the leather. Fake "shiny" or plastic-like finish isn't so good. It needs to be smooth, yet have a little "draw" when you slide the razor down it.
Knowing what I know now, I would HIGHLY recommend one of his starter kits. A NEW razor, already honed, along with the means to keep it in business for years. WELL worth the money. I've purchased a hanging strop from him as well as a hone-strop combination strop/barber hone for travel. Nothing but good to say about him and his products.

2. Dovo razors, if you buy new. Avoid the bargain basement ones labeled "best quality". They are good but for a better experience go for one up from that, perhaps a Dovo special, Prima Klang, or on up. Thiers Issard razors are good shavers but IMHO are not enough better to warrant the price difference.
2a. Older razors: this widens your opportunities considerably. I've never had a J.A. Henckels I did not like. All have been superb shavers. Doesn't matter if you get a stainless one "Friodur" or one of the high carbon ones. Excellent razors. Quite a few out there are really nice, just be careful as some are so sought by "collectors" that their price is far beyond what one normally associates with a great shaver. Case in point, the Dubl Duck Wonderedge. I have a couple of these, but paid FAR more for them than a brand new Dovo Bismarck that shaves quite similarly.

3. Hones. Norton 4000/8000 grit combination hone, available in various locations on the web, as well as woodworking shops. Makes things easier... Barber hones. Available on the web, look at http://www.redtrader99.com/ I have several from her that I am pleased with. Belgian yellow coticule-available at some of the same places. If you get one of Tony's sets with a pre-pasted combination strop, you may never need a hone. Personally, honing is the fun part.

4. Definitely peruse the forums at straightrazorplace or check out the original SRP on yahoo groups. The Yahoo has more information, as it has been around longer, but both are just different versions of the same group, with Lynn Abrams running the show. These will give you an idea of all the ridiculous choices you have available to you.

5.Avoid the Pakistani stuff for the most part. I got one to shave for awhile, and defended it for what it was over on SRP, but even I admitted that it did not stay sharp long.
Hope this helps some,
John P.