my favorite synthetic stones for finishing are the Sigma power 10 and 13. but I much prefer natural stones approaching a similar range of sharpness such as cotis and thuringians.
Franz Swaty?
- Thread starter Mr_Eval
- Start date
If you can get a good deal on a real Franz Swaty or a Pike Swaty (no lines, just says Pike with a fish and Swaty) - that's in good shape, I think they're worth having around.
The Pike Swaty equals or bests (by a hair) the Franz Swaty IMO, I think there's a bit of iron oxide in the Pike that affords a bit more polish. But that's just a guess. My guess is that, with care, you can keep an edge going a good long while.
It wont bring back a killer edge, but it will keep an edge going. I have had several very good shaves off the Pike Swaty, and many others will say the same about the Franz Swaty.
A lot has to do with expectations, and then we have to add in the users technique and the condition of the Swaty.
I'm resuscitating two Pike Swatys right now actually - finally got them lapped to where I want them and now I'll start conditioning them.
The Pike Swaty equals or bests (by a hair) the Franz Swaty IMO, I think there's a bit of iron oxide in the Pike that affords a bit more polish. But that's just a guess. My guess is that, with care, you can keep an edge going a good long while.
It wont bring back a killer edge, but it will keep an edge going. I have had several very good shaves off the Pike Swaty, and many others will say the same about the Franz Swaty.
A lot has to do with expectations, and then we have to add in the users technique and the condition of the Swaty.
I'm resuscitating two Pike Swatys right now actually - finally got them lapped to where I want them and now I'll start conditioning them.
How do you condition them?
I've had good success with lapping them until they feel 'good' - not scaly, dry, etc.
Then I lap finer and finer and when they're smooth but not really glazed looking, then I apply mineral oil.
They soak in a bunch of coats and then level off.
If any weirdness shows up in the stone I'll I relap- continued weirdness means 'in the can'.
Some look like they're seperating or something - not sure of the chemistry or whathaveyou - but I can see blotches with defined boundaries with major discoloration and some kind of breakdown is apparent inside the lines.
These Pikes took a few lappings. They're softer than Franz Swatys so it wasn't so bad.
Not many have major issues - but a few have gone south. I only have but so much patience.
I think someone on antoher board uses petroleum jelly. I never have that here so I haven't tried it. Might be better than mineral oil for all I know. Whatever - the oil soak seems to penetrate enough and then a buffing evens out the rest.
I think repeated use with lather might create the same sort of surface - I have a tiger hone that is well used and I'm certain the top side is the way it is because of lather applications.
Then I lap finer and finer and when they're smooth but not really glazed looking, then I apply mineral oil.
They soak in a bunch of coats and then level off.
If any weirdness shows up in the stone I'll I relap- continued weirdness means 'in the can'.
Some look like they're seperating or something - not sure of the chemistry or whathaveyou - but I can see blotches with defined boundaries with major discoloration and some kind of breakdown is apparent inside the lines.
These Pikes took a few lappings. They're softer than Franz Swatys so it wasn't so bad.
Not many have major issues - but a few have gone south. I only have but so much patience.
I think someone on antoher board uses petroleum jelly. I never have that here so I haven't tried it. Might be better than mineral oil for all I know. Whatever - the oil soak seems to penetrate enough and then a buffing evens out the rest.
I think repeated use with lather might create the same sort of surface - I have a tiger hone that is well used and I'm certain the top side is the way it is because of lather applications.
I have a Naniwa 10K and it can produce a decent edge. I like sharper than that so I still polish up after it on a 16K gem stone or on crOx.
A Naniwa 12K is in the 1 micron range and should get you a serious edge.
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