Sand paper grits for restoration work

I'd like to try to restore a razor to a mirror finish, but was wondering what progression of sandpaper grits I should use for the task. i thought about using a dremel, but I think it would cut too fast on too small of a space and would result in an uneven finish.

I think I used 600, 800, and 1200 on those I've restored lately, then used a Dremel...VErrrry carefully...to polish it down and or hit really crusty spots, then I hand polished with compounds.
I don't think you can get to a real mirror finish without a buffer, but I did pretty good job with that.

It depends on how much work the razor needs. I used sandpaper for the first time to restore a razor this week and I used 3M wet/dry sandpaper that I bought from AutoZone. My progression was 400 grit < 800 grit < 1000 grit < 1500 grit < 2000 grit. The razor now has a mirror polish but I still see some streaks from the sandpaper - very faint streaks. I'm thinking of getting 3000 grit as a final polish or polishing compounds. The great thing is that the decal on the blade wasn't affected whatsoever by the sandpaper. I scrubbed hard and it wasn't a problem. I can't say that's the norm but it wasn't an issue this time.

If you want simply to get the blade to a mirror finish, and you don't have any pitting to remove, I would suggest the Micro-Mesh MX brand of abrasive. Micro-Mesh works slightly differently to other abrasives and as a result has a more regular scratch pattern and doesn't remove as much material as other brands. The 1200 grit MX puts a pretty high-gloss finish on the blades I've used it with. After that I usually hit the blade with polishing compounds on a polishing mop with the Dremel. I recently ordered a set of watchmaker's rouges from Timezone.com based on the recommendation of a member on another board, it's too early to offer any decisive commentary on them, but early signs are good.
I've also ordered a Japanese sword polishing burnishing rod and some Itoba to use with it, this could be another way to get a highly mirrored finish.
Kind regards,
Alex

I start on as low as 180 grit if there's some deep pitting, then 280, 360, 500, 600, 800, 1200, 1600 and finally 2000.

TstebinsB said:

It depends on how much work the razor needs. I used sandpaper for the first time to restore a razor this week and I used 3M wet/dry sandpaper that I bought from AutoZone. My progression was 400 grit < 800 grit < 1000 grit < 1500 grit < 2000 grit. The razor now has a mirror polish but I still see some streaks from the sandpaper - very faint streaks. I'm thinking of getting 3000 grit as a final polish or polishing compounds. The great thing is that the decal on the blade wasn't affected whatsoever by the sandpaper. I scrubbed hard and it wasn't a problem. I can't say that's the norm but it wasn't an issue this time.

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I've had success getting those final faint sandpaper streaks out with MAAS and some elbow grease. Several applications were necessary, though. 4-5 I'd say. I bet it would go a lot quicker with a dremel and a felt tip polisher.

Leon said:

I start on as low as 180 grit if there's some deep pitting, then 280, 360, 500, 600, 800, 1200, 1600 and finally 2000.

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I've only done seven razors so far, so consider my post to be advice by a noob...

I do the same thing as Leon (although I've used 150 grit on really bad pitting), but I stop at 400 grit. Once I've sanded with 400 grit, the razor goes into a vibrating polisher with rouge treated walnut media for two to three days. Then I change the media to corn cob with rouge, and it gets another two to three days. I've put three razors at a time into the polisher with no blade damage. This sanding/polishing process was recommended to me by GSSIXGUN at, ummm... another shaving forum. It works very well, but for best results, you do have to take the blade out of the scales.

Edit: When you are finishing up with a certain grit, it saves time if you take a few minutes to make the scratch marks from the grit you are currently using run from the spine to the edge. That way, you can sand with the new grit lengthwise, and when the vertical scratches are gone, you know you've removed the scratches from the previous grit. It really sucks when you find yourself two grits finer than some remaining scratches...

I would start lower than 180 grit, but that's the lowest grit I could find.
I usually use a dremel with a very long drum sander I've managed to invent that sands the entire blade at the same time from toe to heel and that saves me some time.