Is grit size the most important?

Truegrit · Nov 10, 2008

Hi, just after joining, so I'm a complete, newbie after reading about the different hones ( course to very fine, 1k upto 10k+) I was wondering is grit the more important factor then type?

To explain exactly what I mean, say I have a good collection of hones and I have as final polishing a choice of hones. Thats the same grit size (I know that my choices may not be exactly the same, but for this question say they are) An Escher, chinese 12k, spyderco Ultra fine. Could I change between these and get much the same result (allowing for the fact that the Chinese 12k would need more laps then the others etc).

I hope I've not put the question too awkwardly.

professorchaos · Nov 10, 2008

Both grit size actual abrasive composition are important. The goal is to create a fine, smooth shaving edge which is accomplished with progressively finer hones. Depending on the edge and what you need to accomplish, you could start as low as 1K grit to set the bevel and work up to at least 8K, preferably 12K to 16K.

This is not to say that the medium is unimportant. Different abrasives cut the metal differently and at different speeds. Thus a razor may require more time on a "slow" hone of a given grit than a "fast" hone of the same grit. Additionally, how the abrasive cuts affects how the edge shaves. Take for example .5 diamond paste and .5 chromium oxide paste. While they are the same grit, they produce different edges. Because the diamond paste is more jagged, for lack of a better word, it cuts very quickly but leaves a rougher edge. Chromium oxide, on the other hand, produces a buttery smooth edge but generally takes (in my experience) 30% more laps to do the trick.

Does this help?

Thebigspendur · Nov 11, 2008

Henry pretty much hit the nail on the head here so the only thing I'll add is that as you hone with different stones whether they are the same grit or not you'll find they all have different characteristics and certain razors seem to do better on certain hones so there is no easy answer here. If you use a certain hone and your happy with the results that's all you need. As you get more and more razors you'll find your arsenal of hones will increase. you just need to experiment and fit the hone selection into your budget.

Truegrit · Nov 11, 2008

Thank for the help, guys, you've put me on the right track.

Practice and gain experience :wink:

professorchaos · Nov 11, 2008

Truegrit said:
Thank for the help, guys, you've put me on the right track.

Practice and gain experience

Bingo!

rudy812 · Nov 13, 2008

professorchaos said:
Both grit size actual abrasive composition are important. The goal is to create a fine, smooth shaving edge which is accomplished with progressively finer hones. Depending on the edge and what you need to accomplish, you could start as low as 1K grit to set the bevel and work up to at least 8K, preferably 12K to 16K.

This is not to say that the medium is unimportant. Different abrasives cut the metal differently and at different speeds. Thus a razor may require more time on a "slow" hone of a given grit than a "fast" hone of the same grit. Additionally, how the abrasive cuts affects how the edge shaves. Take for example .5 diamond paste and .5 chromium oxide paste. While they are the same grit, they produce different edges. Because the diamond paste is more jagged, for lack of a better word, it cuts very quickly but leaves a rougher edge. Chromium oxide, on the other hand, produces a buttery smooth edge but generally takes (in my experience) 30% more laps to do the trick.

Does this help?

Which finishing stone do you prefer? Especially for the TE Blades. The buttery edge sounds so appealing. I bought the kitayama 1200 grit as a final stone, which I found the results to be poor. I was later told by a member that they use a 8000 grit and a 1200 grit natural and unnatural mix. Which expained why it was no better than my other 8000 grit.

professorchaos · Nov 13, 2008

rudy812 said:
Which finishing stone do you prefer? Especially for the TE Blades. The buttery edge sounds so appealing. I bought the kitayama 1200 grit as a final stone, which I found the results to be poor. I was later told by a member that they use a 8000 grit and a 1200 grit natural and unnatural mix. Which expained why it was no better than my other 8000 grit.

There is no simple answer... Razors react to different abrasive materials in different ways. Some respond well to the chromium oxide, others better to diamond pastes. Many here swear by the Chinese 12K hones, I haven't had much luck with them. As a rule, I think you will get the most bang for your buck out of the chromium oxide. The only hones that create a smoother edge are fantastically expensive natural Japanese hones.

In a general sense, I would recommend getting a basic honing set up to see if you enjoy it. No need to spend a few hundred dollars on rare and exotic hones. Not yet, anyway. My most often used progression of hones is a Belgian Blue, Coticule and Thuringian (all new stock) sometimes followed by pasted strops, sometimes followed by the Japanese hone mentioned above.

Truegrit · Nov 13, 2008

professorchaos said:
In a general sense, I would recommend getting a basic honing set up to see if you enjoy it. No need to spend a few hundred dollars on rare and exotic hones. Not yet, anyway. My most often used progression of hones is a Belgian Blue, Coticule and Thuringian (all new stock) sometimes followed by pasted strops, sometimes followed by the Japanese hone mentioned above.

This is very practical advise, I'll get a basic set and work from there.

Thank for the help.

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Is grit size the most important?

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