What's new

Against the grain

Just how does one shave against the grain properly? I've been shaving with my straight for two months now and I'm really getting the hang of it, but the other day I decided to go against the grain too to get that super-smooth shave, and I cut myself really badly under my chin. Bad enough that it'll scar.

My razor is sharp and is stropped properly prior to every shave, so I'm not really sure what the problem is. Perhaps the angle of the blade?

Any pointers as to how to not mutilate myself in future? :)

Thanks, gentlemen.

Colin
 
Once the blade is truely sharp shaving against the grain isn't too hard, but my skin doesn't always appreciate it. I use maximum support for the skin and I shave at a lower than normal angle, about 20 degrees. I judge whether the blade is really sharp enough on the wtg passes. On many days its just not going to happen. Some days, stropping based I suppose, the blade just glides effortlessly and on those days some atg is workable.

By the way, I can get practically just as close with one xtg pass at a much less risky proposal.
 
Aside of the angle I think stretching the skin taut can't be overemphasized. At least that's where I am making most of my mistakes.
 
It is really worth the hassle. And chicks do did it. You wouldn't believe the amount of comments I've had from visitors who use my bathroom and see my razors there.
 
Yeah I'd love to, but I could do without scars... then again chicks dig scars too!

Do you need to spend hundreds on a straight or would the $64 range @ vintageblades be OK?
 
Vintage razors are regarded as good as newer ones. In fact some say they're even better. Depends on the str8 of course.
 
They have different ranges made of different types of steel. ie. carbon & stainless. There is huge price differences. I'll look again, but I think they are new.
 
You are probably using to much pressure and the most common reason for to much pressure is a blade that may not be sharp enough. I have found that since I have gotten my blades really sharp when I do cut myself that most of the time I don't even bleed. When your razor is sharp you can use a really light touch. That said, I have found that when I go against the grain I first have to reduce the beard and by the time I am going ATG I am on at least my 3rd pass. I have found that short overlapping strokes make the job a lot easier. I have a really tough beard and I have yet to do an ATG on my neck that does not take work and has a lot of resistance. Although not painful it is just on the verge of being so.

Take Care,
Richard
 
Going against the grain can give you a far closer shave that lasts much longer than anything you can achieve with a xtg pass. In fact, I think it surpasses the even the best results with a DE.

First and foremost, I have found that a superlative atg pass requires an exceedingly sharp edge. Of course you can go atg with an edge that is merely shave ready, but your results will be better if you have taken the edge to the next level of sharpness.

Other than that, all the preceding recommendations are dead on. You need to keep the blade as close to parallel to your skin as possible and stretch the skin taut.
 
I agree with what Henry and the others have said as far as blade sharpness. A yellow Belgian coticule or a pasted Tony Miller strop might be a good choice for maintaining that shave ready edge.

I have to go ATG daily since my beard seems to be quite heavy and thick. What I do is I start at the upper lip area and go towards the ear on each side. I go upwards at about a 45 degree angle. If I really want it close, I'll lather up again, and go straight up. Hope this suggestion helps.

........and if you have a really heavy beard, you might find a quarter hollow or a wedge preferable. Plus, in my experience, a wedge is usually more forgiving with me if I don't happen to have the skin stretched out properly.

Anything Jim sells at VintageBladesLLC.com is good. He is a member here, and is a top notch guy. If it isn't worth a damn, he wouldn't sell it. Also, ClassicShaving.com is also top notch in their selection...as is Rasurpur.de over in Germany.
 
When I do ATG pass I find myself sliding the blade at an angle.. Sort of the gillette glide,,with a scithing motion... Helps quite abit, even closer shave than ATG perpendicular to the blade.. Although it is very dangerous and shouldn't be attempted until you have gotten comfortable with your blade....
Good Luck
 
strangely, as opposed to other posters' experience, I fare better using a steeper blade angle, i.e. holding the blade close to 45% against the skin when gong against the grain. Holding the blade at a shallow angle results in the blade catching and "hopping". I guess the way the hair grow out of the skin come into play here.
 
I don't do ATG very often, but stretching the skin was the biggest key for me. I'm pretty sure I use a lower blade angle as well.
J.
 
I go upwards at about a 45 degree angle. If I really want it close, I'll lather up again, and go straight up.

Definitely with Dave on this one. Just carefully run it up at a 45 to the blade edge. I guess it's somewhat between a ATG and XTG all at once. I think it gives the blade a little more time on the hair than just going orthogonally and (for me at least) does less ripping and more slicing.

And can't stress "the sharper the better" enough, either.
 
Top Bottom