
Originally Posted by
mk-ultra
I hope I can be of some help. I drank and collected port for many years before non-alcohol-related health issues caused my doctor to proscribe alcohol. I did, however, get special dispensation for my most recent birthday because it was a monumental one. I was permitted one glass of the 1983 Cockburn's Vintage port that I had been saving for 8 years for this occaison.
I was never a big fan of Tawney ports, but did keep a bottle of Graham's 20 Year Old Tawney on hand for friends that enjoyed it. It also pairs well with some deserts.
Here is a short treatise on non tawny port.
At the bottom of the list is Ruby Port. This is aged in kegs for about 2 years and then bottled. It does not mature in the bottle so it should taste the same whenever it is opened. The flavors aren't fully developed and there is quite an alcohol bite.
The next up is the Vintage Character Ports. These are really high-end Ruby's. The best of these are Sandeman's Founders Reserve, Graham's Six Grape, Fonseca Bin 27, and Warre's Warrior. I have found the Sandeman's Founders Reserve to be the mellowest of the bunch.
Next up are filtered Late Bottled Vintage (LBV). These differ from Traditional Late Bottled Vintage (described next). Filtered Late Bottled Vintage ports are aged in the keg for 4 - 6 years, filtered, and bottled. The longer time spent in the kegs causes them to mature more than Rubys and Vintage Character Ports. Filtering causes them to not age in the bottle. They are ready to drink when bottled and should always taste the same. My favorites of this bunch were Graham's LBV and Taylor Fladgate. This used to be my "every day port" when I wanted a single glass after dinner and didn't have guests. The Graham's is really nice because you can taste a raisiny, brown sugar, flavor indicative of Graham's Vintage Ports.
The next group is the Traditional Late Bottled Vintage (LBV). These are also aged 4 - 6 years in the keg and then bottled. Since they are not filtered, they continue to age in the bottle. The producers say they are ready to drink when bottled. I have found that they are much better if you hold them for at least 2 years before drinking. This is where you have to start decanting because bottle aged ports throw sediment. My absolute favorite in this group is the Warre's Late Bottled Vintage. If you find 1986 or 1990, jump on it. Others are Noval and Smith Woodhouse. These are a very good alternative to Vintage Ports as they cost considerably less and only an afficianado would be able to tell the difference.
The next goups is one of the best kept secrets. They are called Single Quinta (vineyard), which is not always correct. Port producers do not declare a vintage every year. Vintages must be approved by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto.
In non-Vintage years, producers will use either their best grapes or only grapes from their premier Quinta (vineyard). These are about half the price of Vintage Ports and every bit as good. These ports are aged in kegs for 2 years and then bottled. They will continue to age in the bottle. Look for Graham's Malvedos, Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha, and Fonseca Guimaraens. I have enjoyed many fine Graham's Malvedos. The best of this group that I have had is a 1984 Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha. For Warre's, 1983 and 1985 were vintage years, but the 1984 Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha was every bit as good. Regardless of what anybody tells you, don't even think of opening one of these until 17 years from the year on the label. Also, these must be decanted. Enjoy!
The absolute cream of the crop are the Vintage Ports. For these, the producers declare a vintage and it must be approved by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto. For most producers, except Quinta de Noval, these are a blend of grapes from different Quintas (vinyards) owned by the same producer. These ports are aged in the keg for 2 years and then bottled. They continue to age in the bottle and throw sediment. Don't listen to anyone. Wait at least 17 years from the year on the label before opening. I have opened a few bottles too early and realized while drinking it how much better it would have been if I had waited. These require decanting. My favorites are Graham's, Warre's, and Cockburn's. Quinta de Noval has always been out of my price range, as are Fonseca and Taylor Fladgate.
One very important note about Traditional Late Bottle Vintage, Single Quinta, and Vintage Ports, all of which age in the bottle. As they age, they change. Some of them actually "close up" or become "dumb" during a period in their aging process. Then, they open up. The 1983 Cockburn's I had last month was a lot different from the one I drank in 2000.
My advice. Start with a Sandeman's Founders Reserve to see if you like port. If you do, look for Graham's or Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage.
If you want to move up the ladder, look for Warre's, Noval, or Smith Woodhouse Late Bottle Vintage, but be prepared to hold them for a couple years.
If you see a Graham's Malavedos, Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha, or Fonseca Guimaraens, grab it and wait.
A few notes: When storing port, lay it on its side and don't move it. Don't refrigerate it. Keep it someplace dark, not too warm, and free from vibrations. Get a decanting funnel with screen and a decanter.
Enjoy!
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