HELP Worst shave to date

**Lvis** · 09-14-2006, 08:59 PM

I need some help. I just received some creams from Scotto today. They are great. I just shaved (5 mins ago). Worst shave I have ever had. I have some nicks, I received razor burn, I need some advice on lather technique. This was my first time lathering. I put some in a big cup and built up a ok looking lather. But after I applied it to my face it was drying out and becoming crusty like. More water I thought, but then to my demise it broke down and became runny. Maybe a dull razor? HELP.....

**Jim** · 09-14-2006, 09:05 PM

Its OK- it takes time to get where you want to be- Take a look at all of Mantics /Mark videos heres a link- you can also do a search for Joel's lather building tutorial.Keep in touch also!

**Justso** · 09-14-2006, 09:57 PM

Lvis,

Well you have a lot of variables here. Let's start simple by answering your lather question...

1. If the lather was crusty & dried out, that means it wasn't hydrated enough. By adding more water to it after it was already on your face, most likely what happened was you put TOO much water in the mixture and it turned into a frothy, drippy drool on your face. Which consequently means that the lubricity quality of the creams went out the window, which equals razor irritation. Knowing Scotto and his quality of products, I can tell you that you can rest assured that the creams were fine.

That all being said, IN MY OPINION, lather is best built in a shaving bowl where you can control the water/cream ratio with your eyes rather than trying to build it on your face and add/subtract a wet/dry mixture of cream & water. Next time, try to build up the cream in the bowl better and play around with the consistencies. I'll also tell you that different creams will require a bit different water/cream ratio (ie-Crabtree & Evelyn). Practice and play around with building lather with your brush in the bowl. Hell, make mounds of cream. It's fun. Just play around with it & you'll get it.

Now, as to the quality of your shave, you need to post for us exactly what you're using, what your gear is. Also tell us what your prep is. Prep will absolutely make or break a shave my friend. How wet & hydrated is your face? You shave after a shower? During? Are you using hot wrapped towels? What's the technique? A DE shave isn't something that is going to learned overnight, it takes time. We all had those bad shaves. But hey, remember, you're working towards something. Rome wasn't built over night.

When I was a newbie with a DE, my biggest flaw was blade angle. It's that way for most newbies. Blade angle is absolutely everything. Too steep, you get cut, too shallow you get razor burn because the blade is scraping your face, not cutting the hair. Watch Mantics videos for the blade angle stuff, but a rule of thumb that I like to use (insert credit to Scotto here) is that the handle of the razor needs to be as parallel to the floor as you can possibly get it.

Hope this helps...keep us posted

**TimmyBoston** · 09-15-2006, 03:26 AM

Originally Posted by Lvis

I need some help. I just received some creams from Scotto today. They are great. I just shaved (5 mins ago). Worst shave I have ever had. I have some nicks, I received razor burn, I need some advice on lather technique. This was my first time lathering. I put some in a big cup and built up a ok looking lather. But after I applied it to my face it was drying out and becoming crusty like. More water I thought, but then to my demise it broke down and became runny. Maybe a dull razor? HELP.....

How were your shaves before you used these creams? Was anything else changed besides the cream?

**birchhook** · 09-15-2006, 06:56 AM

Originally Posted by Lvis

More water I thought, but then to my demise it broke down and became runny.

I have done that more than once. I find that adding water has to be done drop by drop. Usually if the lather is too thick, I'll add 3 or 4 drops of water and that's just enough.

**Lvis** · 09-15-2006, 07:13 AM

Here is my set up. Well it is not much of a set up, but here it is.
Long Handle Merkur with Merkur blades. I showered before I shaved last night. I don't think this is good for me. I have done this twice and after I have finnished shaving my face is really dry. This doesn't seem to be the situation if I just use some warm water and splash it on my face. Nothing has changed from before I received Scotto's creams to after I received his creams. I know it is not the creams, they are great. I was excited to try the creams and that might have played a part in this mess. I just woke up and my face is still really dry. I have watched the video on Lather Build Up and will watch it again before I shave tommorrow. For my technique I do a N-S and am trying a second pass of a E-W I am nervous about going S-N esp on my neck. I have a couple of small moles and seem to be nicking these of late. I don't know about pre-shave and post-shave plans. I am sure that is where part of my problems start and end.
Thanks for all the help so far. I am lookling forward to Saturday's shave.

**Jim** · 09-15-2006, 07:43 AM

Lvis
Hey, cheer up. You sound like you are quiting on us! We can get you through this-many of the men on this forum had a terrible time when they started wetshaving,and today are enjoying their shave,so can you.

I have the worst combination of beard and skin-dry sensitive skin and a beard like a BBQ brush that grows in every crazy direction.

Are you washing your face to much with strong soaps? Exfoliating?

Prep- splashing warm water is fine-try a hair conditioner on your beard and leave on while you can soak a towel in warm water and put it on your face for 2 minutes.

Lather- The most important part of the shave for me.Most of the high end creams don't work for my face. I use Shea butter enriched soaps,and add them to any that don't have it. Joel has a great lather building post as does Scotto check it out. Trying to shave with crappy lather is like test driving a sports car with a flat tire- gets you no where fast!

Blades- If you are experiencing pulling or dragging I think your lather is likely but the blade contributes to it. I am not a fan of Murkurs blades and recommend that you get Johns sample pack (Letterk) if thats a problem PM me with your address and I will send you some.

Brush-If your face is dry and sensitive don't build lather on your face-use a hot bowl.

After- Sounds like you need to add an after shave balm to your shave.

Nivea AS balm for sensitive skin or Purpose is 6-9 bucks at the drugstore
add corn huskers lotion if you like as a finish. As a rule less is more with these products just a drop will work!

If your face is raw only do one pass for now until it heals up-and remember no pressure on the razor, Kyle has a great post on that!

Thats it-Just my 2 cents. Keep posting

**Steelforge** · 09-15-2006, 08:12 AM

Just a thought. I found my razor dragged like crazy when I started washing my face with soap before each shave. You need to keep the natural oils in the skin, or else the razor will keep sticking even with a good lather.

I just wash my face with nothing but hot water before latering up, this works fine for me. But Dr Moss has recommended applying some pure glycerine or GFT Skin Food to your wet face before lathering up, this puts a slippy and moistuirising layer of glycerine directly on the skin under the lather - and apparently works very well.

**Jim** · 09-15-2006, 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by Iwan

Just a thought. I found my razor dragged like crazy when I started washing my face with soap before each shave. You need to keep the natural oils in the skin, or else the razor will keep sticking even with a good lather.

I just wash my face with nothing but hot water before latering up, this works fine for me. But Dr Moss has recommended applying some pure glycerine or GFT Skin Food to your wet face before lathering up, this puts a slippy and moistuirising layer of glycerine directly on the skin under the lather - and apparently works very well.

Not to get off topic ( climb on soap box) but a good shave soap should provide all the lubrication necessary to shave- 30.00 a tub and you need to add to it- Thats just crazy. (climb off soapbox)

**ada8356** · 09-15-2006, 09:26 AM

Originally Posted by Lvis

Here is my set up. Well it is not much of a set up, but here it is.
Long Handle Merkur with Merkur blades. I showered before I shaved last night. I don't think this is good for me. I have done this twice and after I have finnished shaving my face is really dry. This doesn't seem to be the situation if I just use some warm water and splash it on my face. Nothing has changed from before I received Scotto's creams to after I received his creams. I know it is not the creams, they are great. I was excited to try the creams and that might have played a part in this mess. I just woke up and my face is still really dry. I have watched the video on Lather Build Up and will watch it again before I shave tommorrow. For my technique I do a N-S and am trying a second pass of a E-W I am nervous about going S-N esp on my neck. I have a couple of small moles and seem to be nicking these of late. I don't know about pre-shave and post-shave plans. I am sure that is where part of my problems start and end.
Thanks for all the help so far. I am lookling forward to Saturday's shave.

I would advise that you try some practice runs at lathering before you shave again... early on, I found this was the best way to figure out how to get it right... once I got to the shave part, there were so many things to think about it was nice to know I was going to at least get a good lather.

Remember, you can only shave every so often... you can build a lather anytime you choose!

**PalmettoB** · 09-15-2006, 09:45 AM

Lvis:
I have been doing this for a couple of months and still have the occasional rough time or two. But I think I am getting the hang of it. Had a lather problem this morning myself. Too much water. Kinda drippy.

Two things. Get the sample pack from letterk (John). I didn't think there would be much of a difference in all the many blades that people discuss on here, but trust me, there is. I also have the long handle Classic.

Second, practice with the angle. As Justin said, that will get you EVERY time. And the lather will not take long to learn either. And have fun. I know it can mean discomfort from time to time, but if I didn't like doing it this way, I wouldn't. I just know it beats the heck out of the multi-blade marauder or the electric. The folks on here are great source material, so trust them.

**Leisureguy** · 09-15-2006, 02:50 PM

Jim's observation that using glycerine or Coral Skin Food as an every-pass pre-shave not being necessary: I think (but, Jim, correct me if I'm wrong) that he made the comment without trying the experiment. That is, the comment is based on "what makes sense." In any event, in view of YMMV, I recommend that you try the experiment and see how it works for you: a few drops of 100% glycerine (available at Whole Foods, health food stores, some drugstores, etc.) or Trumper Coral Skin Food rubbed into the wet beard just before you apply the lather, for each pass. Once you've actually tried the experiment, I'd be interested to read reactions.

**Jim** · 09-15-2006, 03:06 PM

OK back on the soap box- I am sure it will work just as if you rub coco or Shea butter on your face you will get extra lubrication and slide.
My point ( which I admit was off topic) was that if you need to add to your soap- you have the wrong soap-for 30.00 a tub it should wipe up the sink up after your shave- why can the Sues make a Superior product in their kitchens than the 3 T's with all their experience and resourses- I use all the high end creams But I add Shea to them or they will be unusable to me.As you say-YMMV
Getting off soapbox!

Corn huskers is cheaper than Coral skin food and will work the same for passes

**Leisureguy** · 09-15-2006, 06:28 PM

Jim, just to check: you've tried both the Corn Huskers and the Coral Skin Food as every-pass pre-shaves, and they're equal in effect?

**Lvis** · 09-15-2006, 09:31 PM

Is there a difference in a beard and stuble? I don't grow a beard. It would take me 3 weeks (well 2 to get it started) to get a beard going. But my stuble is coarse. Is there any difference for prep? I am learning a lot from all your advise. Thanks.

**Christoph** · 09-15-2006, 09:53 PM

Hey there Lvis...

It can take a lot of time to find out whats right for you. I am getting pretty satisfying shaves these days (not perfect, but still really good). I do not wash my face thoroughly before shaving. I just wet my face with plenty of hot water. Then I use either Truefitt and Hill Limes cream or Taylors Eaton College. I lather it on my face. (Although the idea mentioned earlier about lathering in a bowl sounds like a great idea). Then I shave. I use the reduction menthod. First North to South. Then South to North. Then East to West/West to East. T hen its all ovet the place. And I ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS re-lather between each pass. I have learned that this is essential for me. After a cold water rinse I use an after shave. I have lots of them. Some high end balms, some really cheal stuff too. I love them all. These days I have been shaving with a Merkur Futur with mostly Derby blades, but sometimes Feathers or Israli Personnas. I never shower before shaving these days. I recognize that its probably the best thing to do, but I do not find it comfortable in the warm weather. Its something I might do more often in the cold weather. But nonetheless I have been having really good shaves lately. The only thing that I would like decrease the amount of time I spend shaving. While I DO enjoy it, I might like to shorten the time for practical reasons.

What I have described here works for me. And it may not work for you at all. The challange of shaving is to find out what works best for you. What techniques? What products? What conditions? It takes time and trial & error. But you will get the hang of it. I am certain you will.

**Leisureguy** · 09-15-2006, 09:55 PM

No difference in prep: stubble is just a short beard. Same things to get ready, which is basically to make sure the hair is fully wetted so that it cuts easily: shower, use conditioner on the stubble/beard in the shower, wash beard at sink and leave wet to lather, etc. Rubbing a drop or two of glycerine into the wet beard/stubble before lathering helps make for a close shave free of irritation, though it will still require 2-4 passes: never try to achieve closeness in one pass. I actually haven't tried the Cornhusker's Lotion, but Jim believes that works as well as the glycerine.

**Lvis** · 09-17-2006, 08:12 PM

I shaved a couple of hours ago and had a much better shave. I put in a new blade and used the Mr Taylor Rose. I did three passes, is that too much? I did not shower before I shaved. I even went for a S-N pass on most of my neck and a lot of my face. But I see I missed a couple of spots. I showered after my shave. I find my face retains a lot of heat from the shower. I came out of the shower and splashed some cold water on my face, even went a got a ice cube and rubbed that on my face. The Rose lathered up real quick and that went ok. It seems that I get the lather riding up on the top of the bowl I use. How can I keep that down and in the container? Should I squeeze out the foam from the brush and put that back in and keep stirring? Thank you for all the help so far.

I like the idea of shave to reduce. Will keep at it. Feel better

**Leisureguy** · 09-17-2006, 08:49 PM

You may just need a deeper bowl. I wouldn't squeeze the lather out of the brush: the lather resides in the brush, so that you can readily brush it onto your face. The bowl is just to help develop the lather. (You can also develop the lather in a cupped hand, or---especially with a cream---directly on your face. In fact, with shaving creams I used to dab some on each cheek and then brush it vigorously and got plenty of lather---and the brush then held enough for subsequent passes.)