Straights purchased at antique store: how'd I do?

[Jim1970]

Hello folks,

Some time ago I began a quest to shave with something better than my Mach 3. I found a couple of old double-edge razors at a local antique store and I was off and running. After much experimenting, practicing, and general learning, I am now able to achieve a superb shave using my setup. Next, I wanted to get into shaving with a straight. After browsing a couple of local antique stores, here is what I found.

I paid $10 for everything in the picture. How'd I do?

Jim

[Jim1970]

Okay, got the pictures posted, now let me tell you about the razors.

Both came in the original boxes. They came with a flat object that I believe is a ceramic sharpening stone. However, it appears unused. It says on the bottom "Franz Swaty warhring beiwien austria." I'm almost 100% certain it is ceramic - but it appears to never have been used.

On the boxes of the razors, there are lots of words. The dark box contains the razor that has what appears to be wooden handles. On the outside of the box on the short end (the lid) it says, "A. Clauberg New York Made in Germany." On the opposite side on the bottom portion of the box, it says, "The Mikado Blade" and "Fine Japanese Steel." When the top is removed, there is a sticker inside that reads, "This razor must be handled with great care on account of its extreme thinness and high temper as it is easily broken Razor will be good by us" with no period after the word broken. The razor itself is 6.25" long closed. The blade appears to be 1/2 inch wide with a round tipped blade. There are notches on the top and bottom edges of the tang -- the ones on the top (or outside) are wider apart, while the ones on the inside are closer together. Pins and scales appear to be original. Pins are simply pins through the material. The action is loose -- it falls open. I think they are wooden scales, but when I tap them they don't sound like wood. On the blade I can see there were once words -- I can now only make out an "IXL" on the edge closest to the top pin. There is slight rust and no pitting on the blade itself.

The second blade also came in the original box. It is very ornate with a border or trim around the edges and a scroll-like design in the middle. Upon opening the box, there is another label -- it is torn, but these words are visible, "This RAZOR (torn) fine temper a (torn) very thin, (torn) handled carefull (torn) broken RAZORS (torn) exchanged." This razor is also about 6" long when closed. The blade is 7/8" wide with a spike or square tip. There are no notches on the tang of this blade. This one is much more ornate, with decorative metal around each pin and around the ends of the scales. The pins are much nicer than the pins on the first razor -- these appear to have a pin that is surrounded by more metal to hold them in place. The action on this one is firm -- it does not fall open. The scales appear to be bone or ivory and they have fine lines that run through the material -- not cracks, but striations that appear to be part of the material. The blade has words that I can see. On one side they say, "Perfecto" in an oval. On the other side, it says, "Peter J Michels New York Made in Germany" and there is a bell with an arrow threw it. There is no rust on this blade and no pitting. This one appears ready to use right now -- it is sharp as hell.

Questions:

So, what do I have here?

How do I clean them?

Can I use them?

Should I use them?

What is the proper way to use them? Meaning achieving the angle -- what is it and how do I do it?

Is it like shaving with a DE - one pass wtg, one pass atg, and one xtg?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Jim

[Thebigspendur]

I would say you did good for what you paid. The hone alone is worth the price. The Japanese steel is unusual most are German made with either English or Swedish steel. Both razors are quality and should shave well however do not even attempt to shave with them. First you need to use some antibacterial soap or other treatment to thoroughly clean the entire razor. Then you need to inspect the edge with some magnification to check the bevel for chips and overall condition. If you want to cosmetically clean the blades you will need some metal polish like maas or simichrome or cape cod polishing cloths for starters. If you want to really clean them you may need to either use a dremmel or sand the blades with a series of sandpapers. You will then need to hone the razors and for that you will need either a pasted strop or a hone of at least 8K grit and depending on the edge condition you may need 4K or even 1K. If your uncomfortable with honing you may want to send them out to a honemeister for that. Depending on the edge, that will determine exactly the coarse of action you will need to take.

[kestrel]

Jim

I think you did just fine. Read through Joel's Interactive Guide to Straight Razor Shaving here in the Straight Razor forum, then pretty much follow the steps that Thebigspendur laid out in his post, and you'll have made a good start. Of course, log on here and ask any questions you need to; there's plenty of experience here to help you.


Best Regards

Graham

[Jim1970]

Hello folks,

Thebigspendur, I have a question or two for you.

You are saying don't use them until they are cleaned up, correct? Are the scales safe to clean or do I just focus on the metal? I'm assuming everything is fine to scrub and clean on, but that I need to be gentle on the handles. I thought about taking them to an old barber in my town -- I'm sure he'd know how to disinfect them (e.g. barbicide) -- but I can polish them up with my dremel.

I've never been a good knife sharpener -- you mentioned a "honemeister." I like the idea of initially having someone else do this for me -- but I will learn to do it as well. Can you recommend someone that is trustworthy and won't snag my stuff?

Thanks for everyone's input.

Jim

[Thebigspendur]

I am assuming the scales are celluloid. if thats the case celluloid is very delicate stuff. You don't want to use anything heavier than mild soap and warm water on them. They have a nasty habit of self destructing and can begin to rot just by looking at them too long. if they are horn or plastic or some other material then you can use heavy duty stuff on them.

As far as a honemeister goes I think there is a list around here. Also over at SRP they are a number of guys who can do it. Just remember that honing is one thing and restoration is another. So you need to access the overall condition of the razor and what you can do to clean it up and what the edge condition is and what it may take to get it shaving.