Step-by-step Ever-Ready brush restoration

**AaronX** · 09-15-2008, 12:09 PM

Originally Posted by sol92258

stopped by and looked at a Rubberset brush I know of in a local antique store, has anyone restored one of those? can't tell if it's hollow or not, it's black and red, black part where the knot goes. it's only $6, very tempting...

The rubbetsets I've ripped apart have not been hollow.

**Etoyoc_Rebmos** · 09-16-2008, 03:51 PM

Completed my ever-ready

sorry the pics are low quality. I am working on a sore throat and kept coughing... these are the only pics that were in focus of the dozens I took.

EJ BBB on the left, restored ever-ready 200 with 24 mm knot on the right.

side.jpg
top.jpg

yeah, I got a small amount of epoxy out of the hole; however, it is for my use only.

Used it this morning and it is MUCH softer than the EJ BBB. I am quite happy with it; however, now I have to re-learn all my lather techniques.

**Darjeeling Express** · 09-16-2008, 05:50 PM

Is the Flitz polish for plastic and fiberglass available in the New York City area. I went to Lowes and their polish selection was meager!

**Vinny Bobo** · 09-16-2008, 09:30 PM

Good Job Jim! An old handle with new bristles makes a very nice brush.

Originally Posted by sol92258

well, I've taken pictures to of my little accomplishment, and have used it twice now....Wow! I got the 20mm silvertip from goldennib, I can't see myself needing anything bigger, the thing nearly covers the entire side of my (shaving area of my) face as I lather, and whips up lather like crazy!
awesome

prior to first use:

after 2nd use, and with Tweezerman and Burma Shave for comparison:

a little side by side comparison for the restored ever ready and tweezerman, for loft and handle size, I tried to hold the bottom of knot level:

and looking down:

(please ignore the toes, wasn't aware they snuck in the picture

)

**Vinny Bobo** · 10-04-2008, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by Darjeeling Express

Is the Flitz polish for plastic and fiberglass available in the New York City area. I went to Lowes and their polish selection was meager!

Sorry, I'm in the Southwest and cannot answer that question. I got mine at Arrow / True Value Hardware. If you have this Hardware retailer in your area, ttry them, it's likely it will be available.

**Darjeeling Express** · 10-05-2008, 06:26 AM

Vinny thanks, I found it locally and it worked very nicely.

**huracan** · 10-12-2008, 07:33 PM

What an informative post. I'm feeling courageous enough to try and restore a travel brush I have.

**ECOSSE** · 11-03-2008, 01:03 PM

Originally Posted by badboris

Can we know what the solution is?

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp..._MKM_A_cn_E_30

**badboris** · 11-03-2008, 02:37 PM

Originally Posted by ECOSSE

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp..._MKM_A_cn_E_30

thankyou. ECOSSE

**ECOSSE** · 11-03-2008, 03:07 PM

Hey no problem!

I must admit I'm not sure how easy it is to use the paint pens, I've more experience with the lacquer sticks which are nice. Just rub the sticks over the area, then wipe off excess.

**masonjarjar** · 11-03-2008, 03:17 PM

I'm going to have to re-knot this Burt's Bees boar brush eventually because it's shedding and probably won't last too much longer. (even though I re-glued the knot, there's not much you can do about a bad knot)

The handle is very nice, if somewhat heavy, but I think it would work great with a nice badger knot. Does epoxy work ok on ceramic? This a ceramic handle.

**JarheadSgt** · 11-04-2008, 10:18 AM

When working with an unknown diameter brush, can you effectively measure the knot after you cut the hair and then use that size drill bit to drill out the old epoxy?

**Darjeeling Express** · 11-04-2008, 04:56 PM

Imperfect handiwork, but they work great. I am grateful to this thread for instruction and inspiration! Here's the whole story, duplicated, with appologies, on the thread "replacement knot".

I read this thread. Vinny's work is amazing, and I loved the idea of do it yourself restoration of old brushes. "I can do that". Easier said than done. So I went to Golden Nib and got 2 knots in 20mm, one in "Best" and one in "Silver Tip". I picked up a couple of old brushes and selected the 2 I thought were the most beautiful, a Klenzo in black and white (like a cool chess piece), and an Ever Ready, in Green and White. I preferred the Ever Ready and saved the Silver Tip for that one. My goal was to sink the knot as deeply as possible - to approximate a Simpson Chubby or a Rooney Stubby. (Of course this was absurd, but I was determined.) First I carefully masked the brush with, what else, masking tape. I drilled out the knot on the black and white, but got to the underlying "platform" rather quickly. Impossible to sink the knot too deeply. I carefully hand sanded out the knot hole, and sanded off a bit of the knot's glue base, mixed two part clear waterproof epoxy in the knot hole, and sunk the knot. Let dry for 3 days. Perfect in every way. But not a stubby/chubby.

I got Dremel fever, because the sanding did a number (numb and number, like dumb and dumber) on my fingers. But I resisted. I bought a sanding/grinding stone that fit on my regular drill and used that. But alas, it proved to be my down fall. I loved that Green and White Every Ready, but I botched it. The Silver Tip knot, I was going to sink as deeply as possible and to hell with reason. So I drilled out the knot, and the underlying platform. So far so good. But the hole wasn't wide enough for the knot, so I used that grinder attachment, and cracked the handle (fortunately only hair line, its air tight, scientifically tested by me trying to blow up the hollowed handle like a balloon, no leakage), and chipped the lip. (That hurt). I mixed up a ton of 2 part epoxy in the base to 1) Fill the base to eliminate water collecting between shaves [I do hang it upside down], and, 2) To bind the hairs above the knot's original glue base, but below the exposed portion. I let that dry for 5 days in a very warm room. It didn't come out too bad after all. Definitely, off kilter and imperfect aesthetically, but I think its going to be a great little addition. The quality of the knots are excellent (not Rooney standard, believe me, but damn good just the same). The Ever Ready, has real backbone and is very soft. So here are the pics. The Ever Ready Green White is displayed pre-bloom and post. The Black and White Klenzo, just post. Enjoy!

**ECOSSE** · 11-04-2008, 05:34 PM

Darjeeling, very nice! I feel like I have caught the bug also with 'upgrading' old brushes. I have a couple of brushes on the bay I'm bidding on and I'm also going to be upgrading a brush that is currently a synthetic to a badger. Will post pics when I can.

**sol92258** · 11-04-2008, 05:37 PM

Nice work, Darjeeling

Don't find the Dremel/equivalent other brand rotary tool....very handy for many applications, even great for shining up razors, with proper gentle touch

**texcattlerancher** · 11-04-2008, 05:42 PM

Originally Posted by sol92258

Nice work, Darjeeling

Don't find the Dremel/equivalent other brand rotary tool....very handy for many applications, even great for shining up razors, with proper gentle touch

Doesn't Darjeeling take nice pictures?

**ECOSSE** · 11-04-2008, 05:42 PM

Originally Posted by JarheadSgt

When working with an unknown diameter brush, can you effectively measure the knot after you cut the hair and then use that size drill bit to drill out the old epoxy?

Do you mean if the brush ends up having a knot, say 22mm, you could grab a 22mm drill bit and drill out the handle?

If you do, try it on a drill press, but its probably going to be too much torque and the bit will either grab or split the handle. If done with a hand held drill...........well...........i kinda see stitches in your future.

**sol92258** · 11-04-2008, 05:50 PM

Originally Posted by masonjarjar

I'm going to have to re-knot this Burt's Bees boar brush eventually because it's shedding and probably won't last too much longer. (even though I re-glued the knot, there's not much you can do about a bad knot)

The handle is very nice, if somewhat heavy, but I think it would work great with a nice badger knot. Does epoxy work ok on ceramic? This a ceramic handle.

I wouldn't know why not, but I've never tried

Originally Posted by JarheadSgt

When working with an unknown diameter brush, can you effectively measure the knot after you cut the hair and then use that size drill bit to drill out the old epoxy?

Originally Posted by ECOSSE

Do you mean if the brush ends up having a knot, say 22mm, you could grab a 22mm drill bit and drill out the handle?

If you do, try it on a drill press, but its probably going to be too much torque and the bit will either grab or split the handle. If done with a hand held drill...........well...........i kinda see stitches in your future.

or you could perform the already mentioned steps, and to fine tune the fit and hole diameter, do what I did and use a rotary tool, such as a Dremel, with a sanding attachment to sand out a little at a time

**Darjeeling Express** · 11-04-2008, 07:06 PM

Originally Posted by texcattlerancher

Doesn't Darjeeling take nice pictures?

Tex, I'm so glad you caught this. I was going to pm you to check it out. The Ever Ready, Green and White just finished setting, so it didn't have the Tabac experience, but the Black and White Klenzo, was, dare I say, anointed.

**mulepackin** · 11-04-2008, 07:54 PM

I have a couple of old bushes which were my Grandfathers when he was a barber. They are both wooden, but I would love to restore them. The paint issue is what is baffling me now. Not sure how I would handle that. The bristle part now at least "seems" easy. Thanks all for such an educational, enlightening thread.