Gonna try honing for the first time, need a few questions answered.

**Lucius** · 08-14-2008, 02:29 PM

I've got the extra fine and extra extra fine DMT plates, and chromium oxide. Never honed before, gonna finally give it a go this weekend. Looking to have a few questions answered.

If the bevel has already been set on the razor, should I skip the extra fine plate and only use the extra extra fine and chromium oxide?

I understand every razor is going to be different, but can someone give me a ballpark figure, of the amount of strokes I should start with for a carbon steel blade that has had the bevel set? What about stainless? What about if I need to set the bevel? How about the amount of strokes on the CrO (I'm gonna pick up some balsa wood to put it on)?

What do you do if you over-hone? Do you take it back to the coarser plate?

I've also read conflicting views about whether the DMTs need to be broken in or not. What are your opinions on this? If so, I've read that a chisel is good for this. Do I just lay it flat and run it over the plate with minimal pressure?

If I can get the answers to these questions I think I'll be ready to go.

**Thebigspendur** · 08-15-2008, 08:49 AM

I know some disagree but honing is more art than science.

Even though the bevel may be set the sharpness of the razor may be very close to shave ready or very far so it's impossible to give even a ballpark figure and that doesn't even account for your technique in honing which also affects the number of strokes. I not familiar with your hone so I can't help you there but in general if you think the bevel is OK I would start with an 8K or equivalent give it few strokes and test and see what happens. Then go to your extra fine. If the bevel is ok I would stay away from coarse stones.

**PedroNavaja** · 08-15-2008, 09:37 AM

I'll share with you what I know:

DMT-8E Extra fine (1200 grit)
DMT-8EE Extra Extra fine (8k grit)

You should use a regular knife and run it through your DMT stones until they're nice and smooth.

Use the 8E (1200 grit) to set the bevel, if you think the razor already has a bevel set, run it through your 8E stone until it passes de TPT or HHT.

Then use the 8EE to polish the edge, using no pressure at all. It'll be nice if you could see the edge through a microscope.

Once you think it's ready, 5- - 60 pases on the strop and give it the real test: shave with it.

in the future, you could get or make a paddle strop using finer pastes.

Good luck

**Lucius** · 08-15-2008, 09:43 AM

Thanks for the advice so far guys.

Yeah, It would be nice having a scope, but I don't want to plunk the money down on one, at least not at this time.

**kelbro** · 08-15-2008, 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by Lucius

Thanks for the advice so far guys.

Yeah, It would be nice having a scope, but I don't want to plunk the money down on one, at least not at this time.

About $12 at Radio Shack for a little handheld scope that will show you what you need to see.

**Lucius** · 08-15-2008, 10:40 AM

Originally Posted by kelbro

About $12 at Radio Shack for a little handheld scope that will show you what you need to see.

Really? Hmm, may have to look into that. I figured it was going to be $100+

Cool. Will probably stop on the way home from work.

**backpackerx** · 08-17-2008, 07:10 PM

Toughest part of honing is just getting light, consistent strokes at first. It took me about a week of practice to get really consistent strokes and it's amazing how difficult it is to use only the pressure of the blade weight itself and do smooth consistent strokes. It's not too hard at all once you get the hang of it and becomes pretty easy but for me at least it was frustrating working on my first razor. Practice is the only way to learn though so enjoy!

**Lucius** · 08-18-2008, 10:16 AM

Thanks.

Heh, didn't really get around to it this weekend. Unexpected stuff came up. I was gonna try just using the chromium oxide to see if a touch-up would do the blade right, but when I mixed the powder with water it didn't seem to want to spread real well on the balsa, just absorb into the area where it was put on.

**professorchaos** · 08-18-2008, 10:31 AM

Firstly, good luck.

Secondly, I agree that honing is more art than science. Unlike many arts, I think you should be able to pick up honing with time, experience and plenty of bad shaves...

**backpackerx** · 08-18-2008, 11:08 AM

Originally Posted by Lucius

Thanks.

Heh, didn't really get around to it this weekend. Unexpected stuff came up. I was gonna try just using the chromium oxide to see if a touch-up would do the blade right, but when I mixed the powder with water it didn't seem to want to spread real well on the balsa, just absorb into the area where it was put on.

Yeah, it's tricky to spread it at first. You want to go with really light dabs all over it and then work it in with the palm of your hand. The surface should not be solid green at all. You should have a very light green coating where you can still see a lot of the balsa showing through underneath.

**Lucius** · 08-19-2008, 04:54 AM

Originally Posted by backpackerx

Yeah, it's tricky to spread it at first. You want to go with really light dabs all over it and then work it in with the palm of your hand. The surface should not be solid green at all. You should have a very light green coating where you can still see a lot of the balsa showing through underneath.

Yeah, that's what I figured. Right now I've got a bunch of green "x"s and some smudges on it. I've got more balsa, so I'll probably fiddle with it Friday when I'm off.