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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Boston, Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,211

    Default Looking to start shaving with a straight

    I've been wetshaving with a DE for quite a while now, but admit that the art of shaving with a straight razor is highly enticing. I'm not sure exactly where to start, though. I've been looking through these and a few other message boards and seem to get different advice from everyone. I'm looking to get set up with a straight razor and also learn how to keep it in shave ready condition.

    What would be a good starter razor? What is the difference between a 5/8 and a 6/8 and which size would be best for a beginner? Should I go with carbon steel or with stainless steel? What are the differences between grinds (1/2 hollow, 1/4 hollow, etc.) and which are the best for beginners? What do I need in the realm of hones/paste/strops and what are the best items in these categories to start learning with?

    Sorry if these questions are answered elsewhere on the boards. I've just got a lot of questions and would like some sort of assistance with where to take my quest.

    Thanks in advance to all of you that respond.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Warrington, UK
    Posts
    175

    Default

    Hi,

    Stater Razor
    This depends on your budget but if you were to post a WTB in the B/S/T section of the forum i'm sure one of the members here could sell you a nice restored vintage razor.

    5/8 and 6/8
    The difference between 5/8 and 6/8 razors is one 8th of an inch on what i would call the height of the blade. From the spine to the edge. I find the 5/8 easier to handle although you will get used to either with practice so its more a case of personal preference i feel.

    Grinds
    I dont feel that there is a best razor grind for beginners as they are all simply different. If you have thick, heavy stubble you may however be better suited to a wedge or 1/4 hollow.

    Carbon or Stainless
    The main differences between carbon steel and stainless steel are carbon is more sucseptible to marks and rust if not properly dried. They are easier to hone but will not hold an edge as long as stainless. Stainless will not mark as easy and will hold an edge longer but it takes longer to hone. The honing issues should not have too much bearing on your decision however as if this is your first straight i would advise you have it professionally honed.

    Strops and Pastes
    As for strops i would advise Tony millers starter strop as i have heard good things about them and his paddle strop (which i have and is excellent) with 1 micron 0.5 micron and if you want 0.25 micron paste. You could also add 3 micron paste to save you having to buy a hone for a while as that paste should be able to sharpen up a fairly dull blade as it is quite aggressive.

    Hope this helps
    Swiftsteel
    Last edited by Swiftsteel; 06-26-2008 at 04:42 AM.
    Danny

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    1,107
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    21

    Default

    Look here for further information.

    Raf
    [I]"A well lathered face is half a good shave"[/I]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Boston, Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,211
    Thread Starter

    Default

    Thanks to both of you! Thank you Swiftsteel for your answers and thank you Scorpio for the link! Both will be very useful in my research and transition towards straight razors.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Astoria,New York
    Posts
    3,993
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    220

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Swiftsteel View Post
    Hi,

    Stater Razor
    This depends on your budget but if you were to post a WTB in the B/S/T section of the forum i'm sure one of the members here could sell you a nice restored vintage razor.

    5/8 and 6/8
    The difference between 5/8 and 6/8 razors is one 8th of an inch on what i would call the height of the blade. From the spine to the edge. I find the 5/8 easier to handle although you will get used to either with practice so its more a case of personal preference i feel.

    Grinds
    I dont feel that there is a best razor grind for beginners as they are all simply different. If you have thick, heavy stubble you may however be better suited to a wedge or 1/4 hollow.

    Carbon or Stainless
    The main differences between carbon steel and stainless steel are carbon is more sucseptible to marks and rust if not properly dried. They are easier to hone but will not hold an edge as long as stainless. Stainless will not mark as easy and will hold an edge longer but it takes longer to hone. The honing issues should not have too much bearing on your decision however as if this is your first straight i would advise you have it professionally honed.

    Strops and Pastes
    As for strops i would advise Tony millers starter strop as i have heard good things about them and his paddle strop (which i have and is excellent) with 1 micron 0.5 micron and if you want 0.25 micron paste. You could also add 3 micron paste to save you having to buy a hone for a while as that paste should be able to sharpen up a fairly dull blade as it is quite aggressive.

    Hope this helps
    Swiftsteel
    some great advice right here

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,389
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    49

    Default

    Already a lot of good advice, thought I'd throw in that if you are starting out with a razor that is already sharp, it might be a good idea to get a vintage straight off ebay or an antique store that looks in nice condition even if not still sharp, and a hone. I'd recommend a Norton 4k/8k or a small coticule and a slurry stone. Add to this a barber hone.
    To be honest the first consistent edges I got were with barber hones-
    they're cheap also.

    When you receive your shave ready razor, moisten your thumb and practice the thumbpad test to see what it feels like on a shave ready razor, or do the HHT. Do NOT perform the thumbnail test on it.
    Next, practice honing the ebay special until it passes the thumbnail test ("digs in" all the way along the edge on your moistened thumbnail, but doesn't "grate" or skip). Then proceed to a few strokes on the finer hone or directly to your strop. Keep the thing flat on it and the strop tight. A little pressure is ok to keep things flat but VERY little, and completely flat. Give the thing at least 15 strokes on the leather back and forth, edge trailing, and see how the edge feels. Does the thumbpad test feel the same as your shave-ready razor, or does it pass the HHT all along the blade? Give it a try on the off-day for your shave ready razor. Odds are you will have just brought your own razor to shave ready condition. Now you have TWO shave ready razors and the knowledge to keep them that way.

    It's also nice to be able to shop for razors and not worry if the seller will hone them for you

    John P.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Boston, Massachusetts
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    Thread Starter

    Default

    Thanks JohnP. Where would I find barber hones? Would they only be found online?

 

 

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