New Rifle

Picked up a Marlin 336 Compact yesterday in .30-30. Other than the handgrip on my Ruger Super Blackhawk, this will be the first firearm I have owned that didn't or isn't, going to end up with synthetic furniture. While I am very utilitarian by nature, I think Noel, Mike and Acme, have finally wore me down, so I decided to get some firearms,

That have more soul...

That's one cool rifle.

I like that more than my bolt action .243.

Very nice. Classic American iron. Enjoy.

Good call. A lever action is the one rifle everyone who ever aspires to pull a trigger should own.

Welcome to the Brotherhood of Marlin Lever Action Awesomeness!

OOOooo...!!! It's handsome, cute, and looks most "bi'ness-like," all at the same time.

Very nice!!!

Nice, I have more Marlin rifles than any other make. One modification you can make on those is the addition of a Wild West Guns "Happy Trigger", https://www.wildwestguns.com/product/trigger-happy-kit/, which will give a much improved trigger pull.

At last count I had 3 of their 39a type lever action 22 rifles, two of the smaller frame 1894 centerfire types, and and 5 of the larger 336 types, the oldest being a 1952 vintage model in .35 Remington my dad purchased new in that year.

noelekal said:

OOOooo...!!! It's handsome, cute, and looks most "bi'ness-like," all at the same time.

Click to expand...

Lol'd!

Thanks guys. It is the 336Y Compact. It really reminds me of something like the old Winchester Trapper. Very short and handy. Should be perfect in thick brush.

I had a hard time deciding between this .30-30 or a full size version in .35 Remington. I think the "small cuteness" As Noel said, is what won me over.

The only other rifles I own besides my two AR's is a Ruger 10/22 Stainless, a Savage 111 Trophy Hunter in .270 and a Remington 700 Police in .308. All three are synthetic furniture.

I like the lightweight and easy maintenance of synthetic and parkerized or stainless guns, but I do need to learn to appreciate not only the function and ability of a gun, but also it's beauty and history. The small Marlin weighs in at 6 1/2 pounds, so not bad at all for a wood & steel gun.

I have been thinking of maybe trying to acquire, a M1 Garand or M1 Carbine or maybe both. Those two absolutely have some wood and history. Definitely need to start looking for a bigger safe.

jkingrph said:

Nice, I have more Marlin rifles than any other make. One modification you can make on those is the addition of a Wild West Guns "Happy Trigger", https://www.wildwestguns.com/product/trigger-happy-kit/, which will give a much improved trigger pull.

At last count I had 3 of their 39a type lever action 22 rifles, two of the smaller frame 1894 centerfire types, and and 5 of the larger 336 types, the oldest being a 1952 vintage model in .35 Remington my dad purchased new in that year.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link Jeff! I was actually noticing the "trigger flop" just last night. Wow, $100 just for the trigger? There is also, some sort of little metal piece on the bottom of the reciever right in front of the trigger, that sort of just hangs and rattles?

There was nothing in the manual I could find on it. Can anyone educate me on it?

GASP!!!...faint.



Your's is fancier than mine...I don't have checkering on my stock. I keep mine handy for varmints; it's out of sight between a piece of furniture and a wall about 3 feet from me.

I just pulled mine out and didn't see anything hanging in front of the trigger, but mine is an older model and a regular size 336.

Oh, are you talking about the little piece at the bottom of the receiver that's in front of the LEVER and just below the loading port?



That's the tip of the carrier...that thingy do hickey that takes the cartridge from the magazine to the chamber. Part #7 in the schematic.

https://support.marlinfirearms.com/Model_336/Schematic_and_Parts_List

If you're talking about this, in front of the trigger with the action open, it's the locking bolt...part #47 in the schematic...I think.

simon1 said:

Oh, are you talking about the little piece at the bottom of the receiver that's in front of the LEVER and just below the loading port?

View attachment 697590

That's the tip of the carrier...that thingy do hickey that takes the cartridge from the magazine to the chamber. Part #7 in the schematic.

https://support.marlinfirearms.com/Model_336/Schematic_and_Parts_List

Click to expand...

That 'thingy, do hickey is what I was talking about. Thanks Mike! I also noticed, that the forearm and buttstock is kinda dull and flat. Doesn't seem to be much varnish/lacquer coating at all. Almost seems as the wood is an unfinished look.

What do you recommend? I was thinking of maybe just coating the wood with a little linseed oil, but I'm used to doing that to older worn stocks of refurbished guns that i have helped friends with. I don't want to screw up a new rifle?

I love my 336. Granted, I've only shot about a dozen rifles in my time, but I still find my 336 to be reliable, comfortable, and accurate.

Congrats, on the new rifle!

I don't know about the stock, Rob. I've never done anything to one. I guess you could call a local gunsmith or one in OKC and see what they say. I haven't looked at a newly manufactured one lately. If I'm deciphering my serial number right mine was made in 1980.

Marlin lever action a have had that wiggly trigger since Day One. I consider it part of the rifles "Charm and Character".

As far as the wood?? Pick up a can of Danish Oil and apply a few coats as per the instructions. I think you will like the results.

Acmemfg said:

Marlin lever action a have had that wiggly trigger since Day One. I consider it part of the rifles "Charm and Character".

As far as the wood?? Pick up a can of Danish Oil and apply a few coats as per the instructions. I think you will like the results.

Click to expand...

Do I have to strip the new stock first or can I just go ahead and apply it?

Love lever actions. I have two Henry's, a 30-30 and a 22. Flawless action, fun to shoot.

Well...based on how I have used it...I use the clear (natural) and the results pretty much retain the original color of what I applied the oil to, but in a matte-like finish. No gloss.

I have never used the "colored" Danish Oils. I will suggest if you like the color of your rifle as it is now...go with the natural. If not, experimentation can be a road to follow but above all else...they a bit of whatever shade of oil you want to try in/on a place that will not be visible if you don't like the results. Like maybe remove the fore end piece and apply the oil you choose on the inside where it interfaces with the barrel. I did a set of Maple scales on a Hart Steel razor once using natural Danish Oil. I really liked the results and how it brought the wood grain out.