Tempering 1095?

Hello All!

So I was told in the newbie forum that this is where I need to post this question. I make knifes and swords, I normally use 5160 because its tough, now I want to make a razor. 5160 will not get the 62ish hrc I need for a razor and be a pain to hone (from what I have been told) I figure 1095 would be the best for this application, but I've never worked with it, and everything on youtube is basically telling me "buy this several thousand dollar heat treating oven!" I either temper it in the oven in the kitchen, or with a torch or forge on projects that don't fit in the oven. Does anyone know how to get 1095 to 62 hrc with home tools? Is 1095 Finicky about the temper? Before anyone says it, I know many people recommend 01 because it is really forgiving on the temper, but I want something as hard as possible, and there has to be someone who has done this successfully.

Thanks!

JollyBoots

Heat to transition temp (1500F or so, same as 5160) and quench in light oil. Will probably catch fire, so be prepared. Edge first, of course, with plenty of movement but don't pull it out of the oil.

You can straighten the razor if it warps in quench before it goes below 500F if you move very quickly, it's quite soft before it reaches room temp.

I'll have to check, but I think an hour at 275F will get you close to 63 RC for tempering. 1095 is quite easy, and if you miss you can just re-heat to conversion temp and re-quench and temper again.

Leave some meat on it, at least 0.020" at the edge and grind without heating to final shape after tempering, else you will surely burn the carbon out of the edge.

You should be able to do a quick search and get the correct tempering temps and time. Most people use a toaster oven rather than the range, it holds temp better.

Peter

psfred said:

Heat to transition temp (1500F or so, same as 5160) and quench in light oil. Will probably catch fire, so be prepared. Edge first, of course, with plenty of movement but don't pull it out of the oil.

You can straighten the razor if it warps in quench before it goes below 500F if you move very quickly, it's quite soft before it reaches room temp.

I'll have to check, but I think an hour at 275F will get you close to 63 RC for tempering. 1095 is quite easy, and if you miss you can just re-heat to conversion temp and re-quench and temper again.

Leave some meat on it, at least 0.020" at the edge and grind without heating to final shape after tempering, else you will surely burn the carbon out of the edge.

You should be able to do a quick search and get the correct tempering temps and time. Most people use a toaster oven rather than the range, it holds temp better.

Peter

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Thanks for being so detailed, I tried searching the forums for 1095 threads, to no avail. Most of the stuff on youtube and other places is not detailed enough to be helpful, or its just for knifes and lower hrc.
So to let you in on the plan, I want to make a big heavy razor. I think a 8/8 starting with 1/4" bar stock gives me the right angle. If I forge it and leave the spine thickness as is I can give the razor a nice smile and save myself some grinding, and I can taper the monkey tail and maybe give it some nice aesthetic touches. Then I need to heat it up to a little over non-magnetic, quench in some peanut oil (you said light oil, I figure that qualifies) throw it in the toaster oven at 275 for an hour. Using the 4" wheel 50grit I'll grind out the hollow (leaving the .02 edge as you suggested) cooling in water to make sure I don't burn out the carbon. once everything is mostly at the desired shape drill my pin hole. Polish it up to the desired finish, slap some scales on it, then set a bevel on a 1k norton, then finish on the 4k,8k and a natural barbers hone.

Please correct any mistakes on my proposed process, as I think this is right but I don't want to assume anything.

I would suggest getting close to the final shape before hardening, it's much easier to grind and you don't need to worry about drawing the temper as you get close to finished. Edge can be as thin as 0.020" when you harden, the rest of it doesn't matter other than the spine where it's going to ride on the hone.

Be VERY careful not to get it too hot while doing the final grinding, this is usually done with wet grinding wheels to avoid losing the hardness (and it goes quick!).

1095 is one of the few steels that is easy enough to harden and temper you can do it with a torch or a coffee can forge. Not something I'd try with stainless razor steel.

Sounds like fun.

Peter

psfred said:

I would suggest getting close to the final shape before hardening, it's much easier to grind and you don't need to worry about drawing the temper as you get close to finished. Edge can be as thin as 0.020" when you harden, the rest of it doesn't matter other than the spine where it's going to ride on the hone.

Be VERY careful not to get it too hot while doing the final grinding, this is usually done with wet grinding wheels to avoid losing the hardness (and it goes quick!).

1095 is one of the few steels that is easy enough to harden and temper you can do it with a torch or a coffee can forge. Not something I'd try with stainless razor steel.

Sounds like fun.

Peter

Click to expand...

Grind rough shape then temper, check.
All I can say about stainless is Blech. I cant stand the stuff. As for wet grinding for the holllow...Interestingly enough I have a borderline antique power wetstone made by craftsman down in the shop, it has a reservoir for water.
I think it needs a belt but it might be worth trying to find one and see how it performs. Thank you again for helping me out.

I would make a spring fuller to help you rough the concave in the blade. Less metal you have to grind the easier your work.

Slawman

Did some digging around and found a color chart. 1095 should be tempered to very light straw to medium yellow (420 to about 450F) to get 62-63 RC hardness, a bit higher if you want RC 61.

Stainless is a different animal altogether, I think. Does not forge like carbon steel at all. For instance, things like swedish razor steel (27C19?) have to be hotter and don't move as much under the hammer. Different skill set.

Peter