Need a real advice to rid off the etches from razor

Oustoura · Sep 7, 2016

Hi

I'm desperately looking for a way to clean some of my razors which I like but I'm not comfortable with the black stains. I know some of you will advice me to advanced have sanding which does not work at all because I try this easy for a while and it doesn't help at all. Actually I've only a dremel, once I tried t some of wheels ( caoutchouc one) on a blade for testing. But it doesn't seems to take off stains with keeping the razor's surface in same level.
There will be a hole on ex place of stain than other points on the razor's surface (sorry for my bad English). Well I mean the razor won't keep same level on its surface.

So i was wondering if you know any way to take these black stains from the razor with removing some metal without using a buffing machine?

Here a picture of a razor which I tried to take off black stains with advanced have sanding as you see nothing changed.

Heespharm · Sep 8, 2016

The black spots may go deep into the steel and look like it goes all the way to the edge... The razor may not be salvageable... The ONLY way to get rid of them is sanding... And yes it does work it just takes patience and lots of manual labor

tetraodon · Sep 8, 2016

the only sure fire way to remove the build up and stains is to sand, you can try a degreaser, or soaking in WD-40. the blade needs a new bevel too, all you need is fine sand paper to remove the rust and stain, i havent done much so wait until more experienced members comment.

Legion · Sep 8, 2016

What sand paper are you using? You generally have to start with something aggressive, and progress to finer. It takes a long time, and a lot of elbow grease.

Many of my favourite shavers have black stains for that reason.

Rusty Blade · Sep 8, 2016

Based on your photos the blade looks to be in poor condition. If you want to have a like-new shiny blade the you will need to remove metal. You can do it by hand, but it will take patience and elbow grease. If you remove too much metal it will likely affect the geometry of the blade. Buy some 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 wet-dry sandpaper, WD-40, Steel wool and some metal polish. It really just depends on how deep the rust and corrosion is in the metal. It also depends on what you want to achieve...Aesthetics versus a functional blade. You will, however, need to achieve a clean edge to sharpen it properly. Staining, esp. black staining can be challenging to remove. Good luck...and post some pics of your finished project.

Doc226 · Sep 8, 2016

I would try to get a bevel first to make sure the steel is good at the edge, then you can decide from there.

To remove the pitting you will need some heavy duty sanding. I would start with 120 grit or even 80 and keep at until everything is even and uniform.

That will be a lot of work for that blade, unless the blade has some sentimental value it it likely not worth it.

Ho inventato le fettuccine Alfredo

mycarver · Sep 8, 2016

I'm with Doc .
you could soak that for hours in WD40 or degreaser and it will get you nowhere. Same for rubbing with anything higher grit than 180. There is metal in there but it will take a full regrind to find it. You won't have the same razor. And like Doc says, unless it has sentimental value is I'm sorry to say its highest value is as scrap metal. Even if I had a razor like that and it was my grandfathers I wouldn't try to revive it. There are some you just walk away from and save your time and energy for more rewarding projects. Especially if this is one of your first attempts. Pick a razor that with just hand work you'll have a chance to end up with a decent razor.

mycarver · Sep 8, 2016

And as an added note about sanding . Yes indeed it does work . It can just take time and effort . An example of this is just human skin's effect on the foot of this bronze statue of St. Peter. It's nearly gone because of people touching it. Yes it took a while but it happened. Sandpaper just makes it happen faster than rubbing with skin. And adding power makes it happen faster yet. And a comparison photo of what the foot should ( Or did ) look like.

Actually this looks more like the results you get trying to use a buffer to "restore" a razor by skipping the labor of sanding.

Oustoura · Sep 8, 2016

Doc226 said:
I would try to get a bevel first to make sure the steel is good at the edge, then you can decide from there.

To remove the pitting you will need some heavy duty sanding. I would start with 120 grit or even 80 and keep at until everything is even and uniform.

That will be a lot of work for that blade, unless the blade has some sentimental value it it likely not worth it.

Ho inventato le fettuccine Alfredo

i'm with 400 grit SP.

Legion said:
What sand paper are you using? You generally have to start with something aggressive, and progress to finer. It takes a long time, and a lot of elbow grease.

Many of my favourite shavers have black stains for that reason.

the edge is good.

mycarver said:
I'm with Doc .
you could soak that for hours in WD40 or degreaser and it will get you nowhere. Same for rubbing with anything higher grit than 180. There is metal in there but it will take a full regrind to find it. You won't have the same razor. And like Doc says, unless it has sentimental value is I'm sorry to say its highest value is as scrap metal. Even if I had a razor like that and it was my grandfathers I wouldn't try to revive it. There are some you just walk away from and save your time and energy for more rewarding projects. Especially if this is one of your first attempts. Pick a razor that with just hand work you'll have a chance to end up with a decent razor.

it's a joseph rodgers.

Slash McCoy · Sep 11, 2016

What they said. Not really worth it, but if you are gonna do it, then jump in with both feet and get medieval on it. I would start with 60 grit and go until nothing remains but bright shiny steel. Then 100 grit or 120 grit until ALL 60 grit scratches are gone. Then 220 grit until ALL 120 grit scratches are gone. Then 320 grit until ALL 220 grit scratches are gone. Gone, gone, gone. Then 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit. At each stage, you must ensure that ALL scratches from the previous stage are completely gone. One way to do that is to sand crossways to the blade when you are finishing with a grit. Then, those final crossways scratches are very easy to see. So you just go until they are gone, then a little more. BE CAREFUL, because a lot of serious cuts happen while sanding down a razor.

After hand sanding to 2000 grit, if you want a mirror finish, then polish with diamond pastes. You can use dremel and cloth wheel, or a soft piece of cotton cloth like from an old t shirt. By hand is much safer. Many razors are destroyed by dremels! Anyway, same thing. Each grit must totally remove the scratches left by the previous stage. Start with 3u diamond paste, which is equal more or less to 8k grit. Then 1u, then .25u, then .1u and you will have a beautiful finish. But the 2k sandpaper finish might look good to you, too.

Oustoura · Sep 15, 2016

Slash McCoy said:
What they said. Not really worth it, but if you are gonna do it, then jump in with both feet and get medieval on it. I would start with 60 grit and go until nothing remains but bright shiny steel. Then 100 grit or 120 grit until ALL 60 grit scratches are gone. Then 220 grit until ALL 120 grit scratches are gone. Then 320 grit until ALL 220 grit scratches are gone. Gone, gone, gone. Then 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit. At each stage, you must ensure that ALL scratches from the previous stage are completely gone. One way to do that is to sand crossways to the blade when you are finishing with a grit. Then, those final crossways scratches are very easy to see. So you just go until they are gone, then a little more. BE CAREFUL, because a lot of serious cuts happen while sanding down a razor.

After hand sanding to 2000 grit, if you want a mirror finish, then polish with diamond pastes. You can use dremel and cloth wheel, or a soft piece of cotton cloth like from an old t shirt. By hand is much safer. Many razors are destroyed by dremels! Anyway, same thing. Each grit must totally remove the scratches left by the previous stage. Start with 3u diamond paste, which is equal more or less to 8k grit. Then 1u, then .25u, then .1u and you will have a beautiful finish. But the 2k sandpaper finish might look good to you, too.

i agree what you said. with hand sanding it would take too much time. well it might be more secure but we don't live anymore in medieval age , there is now some tools we can do better job with spending less time !

i finally give a try to buffing machine of a friend. it took few hours and i get the clean blade. now i just to do polish and final polish ... and i'm glad with the result.

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Need a real advice to rid off the etches from razor

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