What's new

Got the best of me.

Ok fellas...Literally minutes ago, I just finished with my first SR shave. And by the title of this post, I'm sure you've realized the end result. But I would love to share with you the play by play....

I've been excited to have my first SR shave for quite a while, but had only acquired my first straight this past month from whippeddog. Along with my SR, I also picked up a custom badger to compliment the occasion. I am still waiting on my strop to come in, but since the razors from whipped dog come shave ready, I decided that tonight was the night to dive in.

Now...I know that is is suggested to practice on technique and muscle memory before putting razor to skin, and there are several methods in which to do so. But I have always found that trial by fire is where I gain the most knowledge. So the first time I lathered up for this razor is the first time I had done anything even remotely related to SR shaving. Right away I could tell that my angles and pressure for this procedure were quite sub-par. My angles started off way to deep, i was catching skin but thankfully not peeling myself like an orange. My first pass I had decided to go through all of the angles of my face, not just do cheeks and stop at upper lip or jaw line. I was in this to learn, so I needed to gather as much info as possible about all of the real estate of my face. Surprisingly enough, and much to my relief, I found that I am actually feeling more comfortable under my jaw and close to my jaw than on the straight aways of my cheeks, which is supposed to be the hard areas that make novices nervous. This is confusing to me, of course, but gives me hope in the fact that straight aways will be my biggest obstacle, and those should be picked up rather quickly. I lathered back up and decided that my second pass would be with my Merkur 38c for clean up because my face had endured enough punishment for the evening.

When it was all said and done, I had only drawn blood twice with the SR, once on my dominant side cheek, and the other under my weak side upper lip. I feel good about it, and I am remaining hopeful in that my efforts will culminate into valuable experience making the next attempt (I'm hoping within the next couple weeks) less fierce. If you are curious about what I used, you can find the custom badger and sight unseen WD straight in my profile pictures. Feel free to provide me with tips.
 
Cheeks are easy. Learn on your cheeks, then add in sideburns, then jaw, then throat. Until you're comfortable, have your alternative method ready to finish up whenever you start to feel like you can't manage a good finish with the straight.

You should never have too steep an angle. Start at a zero degree angle. If the razor is skipping hairs there, then you need to let the angle out slightly until it starts cutting (depends on how keen the edge is); always making sure you are moving the razor OVER the skin, not pressing INTO the skin. You're gonna want to press into the skin because this is how you make dull things cut (whacking at a carrot on a cutting board with a dull knife)... but razors are sharp. They don't NEED to trap the hair against your face to cut.
 
Congrats on your first go! Remember to stretch your skin, use a super-light touch, a super-close angle (keep the spine close to your skin), and just shave where you're comfortable. Good luck!
 
Sounds like you have learnt lesson #1.....these razors are sharp...lol.

Keep at it, relax and stretch the skin...and enjoy the shave.

BtW....it gets better but every now and then youll get over confident and the blade will remind you....hahaha
 
[MENTION=19423]Legion[/MENTION] - I read the book, cover to cover. Very useful information, thank you. They kept mentioning bay rum specifically in the aftershave/care section. I normally stay away from "spice" type scents, but that makes me think there may be something to it. I hear a lot about Captain's Choice Bay rum, would you suggest it? I am in the market for trying aftershaves to find my favorite. Thanks again! [MENTION=25419]SliceOfLife[/MENTION] - I think my biggest issue was that I kept thinking I needed to "drag" the razor on my skin to cut the hair at the base, but not I'm hearing more about not touching the skin, just gliding through the hair. To stay that close to the skin without touching it seems near impossible unless you have the most steady of hands. I don't shake or anything, but not touching the skin being that close over your whole face seems almost impossible.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
You should have a sensation that the razor is lightly sliding or gliding across your skin - you have to touch the blade to your face. You cannot flatten your skin, at least very much, by pressure on the razor. If the skin is bulging up in front of the razor you're either pushing too hard or not getting a proper stretch.

Keep your pressure light, the skin taut, and use short strokes as you learn.

A slick soap also helps. Straight razor users need a slick soap and the 'film strength' or cushion that DE users need is not that important. Slickness is critical to SR users, cushion seems to be critical for DE users. If the soap has both it's fine for SR. Also, if the soap gets sticky or tacky as it dries, and it will when you are learning to shave with a straight, the razor can hang and our lifelong learned instinct to push harder when a cutting tool stops will not turn out well - lol. Relather as needed and keep that lather wet.

Cheers, Steve
 
Sounds a bit silly at first, but think about this for just a minute. Use the spine of the razor to find and determine a technique that might suit you. Do this to the point where muscle memory literally takes over and when you flip that razor to the serious side that reflex should be a mindset by then. Use short purposeful strokes and the rest will take care of itself......I think..
 
[MENTION=19423]Legion[/MENTION] I hear a lot about Captain's Choice Bay rum, would you suggest it? I am in the market for trying aftershaves to find my favorite. To stay that close to the skin without touching it seems near impossible unless you have the most steady of hands. I don't shake or anything, but not touching the skin being that close over your whole face seems almost impossible.

I haven't tried the Captain's Choice Bay Rum A/S, but I like the scent of their Bay Rum shaving soap sample and the Lime AS sample I have has a great feel (samples came when I ordered a lather bowl from them). I think You'd like the Bay Rum A/S. CC makes solid products.

Did Larry send you a copy of his book on SR shaving? I found that a great resource. The blade will touch your skin, but the angle is really shallow. I started shaving with SEs, and I'm used to having part of the razor touch my face. My first shave with a straight, I shaved with a very shallow angle where the spine and blade were almost in contact with my skin the entire time. I don't think I'd be able to manage a BBS shave like this, but the results were great and I didn't draw blood.
 
@Legion - I read the book, cover to cover. Very useful information, thank you. They kept mentioning bay rum specifically in the aftershave/care section. I normally stay away from "spice" type scents, but that makes me think there may be something to it. I hear a lot about Captain's Choice Bay rum, would you suggest it? I am in the market for trying aftershaves to find my favorite. Thanks again! @SliceOfLife - I think my biggest issue was that I kept thinking I needed to "drag" the razor on my skin to cut the hair at the base, but not I'm hearing more about not touching the skin, just gliding through the hair. To stay that close to the skin without touching it seems near impossible unless you have the most steady of hands. I don't shake or anything, but not touching the skin being that close over your whole face seems almost impossible.


You touch the skin, You just don't press into it. It's kind of like sweeping. The broom touches the ground, but you don't press it in, you move it across.

Angle is the big thing. A lot of the "experts" a few years ago preached a 30° angle... which tells you how sharp those guys were getting their razors. A razor is ideally sharp enough to shave held with the spine ON the skin except when skirting angles on the jaw that make that impossible. As you step down in sharpness, SLIGHT increases in angle (spine lifting), become acceptable out of necessity. But anything like a 30 degree pitch basically means you might as well be shaving with a hatchet. People used to call me crazy for saying this... then people found dozens of old texts (everything from that guide Legion posted to directions on vintage razor packaging to directions on vintage barber hones) that flat out said "DONT LIFT THE SPINE" or "SHAVE WITH THE RAZOR FLAT"... so I got the last laugh. It's really hard to cut yourself if you keep the razor flat and your skin properly stretched... so a sharp razor is a good thing... yet another reason why the old idea that people should start on a dull razor (norton 8k edge) was insane.
 
Last edited:
Alright, You guy have got me amped for round #2. When my strop comes in....it's on!

Why wait...grab a news paper...fold in half or quarter depending on size ...place on flat surface ...strop away! Works awesome and good practice as it cheap if you nick it...lol
 

Legion

Staff member
really? how is that possible? And if it is true, why do people even buy leather strops?

It is possible. You can also strop on the palm of your hand, if you're game.

Why buy a proper strop? Why buy a briefcase when you can tote your junk to work in a shopping bag?
 
Alright, fellas. Today was round 2, and while there is still much more progress to be made, I feel some has happened already. The first time with the SR was rough at best. This one, while still the same amount of visible mistakes (2-3 spots of noticeable burn, and 2 good cuts, with one weeper) my shave was more steady. Steadiness, I believe, is going to be the key with this endeavor. After this shave, I believe that I was too afraid of the blade the first time, and I was too soft with it. Yes, the SR commands respect, but there is not need to FEAR, only trust the blade. I've learned you have to be deliberate with your strokes, as well as smooth, not nervously soft. I also found more stability in bringing my ring finger on the same side as my pointer and middle finger. Before, I split the difference and had 2 fingers on either side of the scales, with my pinky in the tang hook, and my other three on the opposite side of the scales, I had more stability with my angle and grip. I also used my non-dominant hand on the non-dominant side of my face, instead of using my dominant hand throughout. that could account for plenty of mistakes (majority on that side).


I used LT as my splash for the curative properties after a cold water rinse, then threw on some brickett's moisturizer and headed out. I only did the one pass with the SR, no clean up from the DE. I want to wear this stubble as my progress trophy. That and I was a little pressed for time, as well as not really wanting to go over spots that I knew were already quite irritated. I'm very proud of my full face/neck single pass today, and will continue to indulge in SR shaves whenever I have the opportunity. I do however need to re-up on some moisturizer and will most likely be trying out a new product. So if anyone has suggestions of something that may not be so available to the masses ( because I love to order something that I would not be able to procure locally).

Also, has anyone tried the Captain's Choice Lime? How "limey" is it, actually? Does it dissipate quickly or linger? Any burn to it? Thanks all!
 
Top Bottom