Project Ever Ready 100.First

Well this is my restore in progress, have got old knot out using dremel
Have weighted it down with ball bearings and epoxyd it
these are pics so far
My first restore
Next job is to sand down and polish


Feedback would be most welcome
Also how to remove slight scratch or chip on base in second pic
Thanks paul

i wouldn't sand it,just get some plastic polish and rub the fire out of it.the chip/scratch wont be too noticeable once all is said and done.looks like your well on your way to a fine restore.have you decided on your knot yet?a bulb silver tip would look stunning against the blue base.i get all of my knots from TGN;
http://www.thegoldennib.com/wet-shaving/badger-hair-knots/20mm-silvertip-premium.html

Very nice.

I use Meguiars PlastX for a final polish on plastics after wet sanding. Oh, and don't forget to use a blue paint to fill in the Ever-Ready imprint.

Here's an example of what a plastic polish can do. This is an Ever-Ready 250PB. It has not been restored. I only hit it with PlastX and did a quick and dirty paint job on the imprint.

I like your blue handle. Post the end result!

Plastic polished
Tried the lettering twice ,not great deal of success yet

That's looking very good. It'll be an attractive brush once the knot is in place.

Cheers bob
not much success with the paint
put it on then quickly wipe off ???

When I paint anything that is inlaid. I first clean it with alcohol and then apply nail polish. Letting it sit for a minute and then use a non-acetone finger nail polish remover on a little patch to take off the paint. Here is a video of someone painting the inlays on a pistol.
I have it on my AR-15 and it's been 4 or 5 years since I applied it with no appreciable fading. I have colored many other items with great results; but, I have not tried it on a shaving brush yet. If you do use this method, maybe, shoot us a couple of pixs of your results.

FriedEagle said:

When I paint anything that is inlaid. I first clean it with alcohol and then apply nail polish. Letting it sit for a minute and then use a non-acetone finger nail polish remover on a little patch to take off the paint.

Click to expand...

That'a how I do it too.

Works very well on the numbers on razors too. Like Fatboys and Slims or Merkur Futurs... Any color you want.

I let is sit for a few seconds then I wipe off, and this sometimes requires 3 or 4 applications. I prefer to minimize the paint exposure time on plastics to avoid the possibility of the paint solvent interacting with the plastic and creating staining. (An enamel paint is pigment, synthetic resin, and a solvent - fast drying enamels use more aggressive solvents like xylene, which reacts with many plastics.)

Mineral spirits should be safe to use on that handle (test it first!), but any remaining staining would need to be buffed out. This is the part I try to avoid. Additional buffing might further decrease the depth of the stamped lettering.

FriedEagle's suggestion of nail polish might work very well given that the solvent in nail polish is relatively mild. Do not use acetone to clean the handle of nail polish.

looking good so far,another coat on the letters and it will be getting there.i like the nail polish idea too,im going to try that too

Thanks for all the tips on this. That video of painting the letting on the gun was especially helpful!

Great looking brush!

Also that is a great video on lettering, I may have to try it that way sometime.

I use Testors model paint. I thin it down a bit, brush it on, then wipe with a paper towel dipped in thinner. Sometimes it takes an extra coat or two.

Boy these are great threads. First, that's going to be a nice restoration. It looks brand new now. Second, the information about the lettering is great.