Different things work for different people, but I agree with SmurfK about N/S and WTG. Especially while you are developing your technique and getting a feel for blade angle and pressure, you are better off with N/S or S/N as a first pass direction even though it is not perfectly with the grain.
However, for each section of your face, you need to determine if N/S or S/N is more with the grain. In other words, for me, N/S is more with the grain in some areas, but S/N is more with the grain in others. So my first pass in N/S in some places and S/N in others. Stay with multiple "roughly" WTG (N/S and S/N) passes until your irritation problems pass. My experience is that irritation is often from trying to accomplish too much in any pass. The name of the game is beard reduction, and you may be better off with two passes with the same pattern keeping the blade angle as mild as possible.
As far as your prep goes, what you describe sound pretty thorough, but i think it is also important to give the lather a minute or two on your face before you begin that first pass. I think it is possible to over do the hot water prep bringing too much blood to the surface of the skin. I used to do the hot wash cloth thing, but eventually retreated to just wetting my face and neck really well while filling the sink. I face lather and leave the lather on my face while I do other things before beginning the first pass. I am assuming you are getting lather that feel slippery between your fingers and is giving you decent lubrication. I use an alum stick after the cold water rinse. It has a healing effect; it stings where you create irritation, but this is also a good indicator for working on technique. I let the alum sit for a minute or two while I am cleaning up and then rinse it when I feel it beginning to dry. Then I dry my face and apply after shave.
Recommendations for soaps are good--Proraso Green soft soap or cream (cream also branded as Bigelow), Cella (a soft soap not a cream), Speick (available as both a cream and shave stick) all provide good hydration, cushion and lubrication. I think the creams are marginally easier to lather, but depending on your water all should be easier than what you are using now.
For after shave I find the Proraso Green after shave and the Speick are neither too perfumy nor too old mannish, but tastes vary (and sadly I must admit that by your standards I am an old man). Neither one is very strong or lingering. I find the Proraso a bit more soothing. I agree that Nivea is healing but a bit greasy. OTH, applying at night, there would be no residue in the morning.
Alan
However, for each section of your face, you need to determine if N/S or S/N is more with the grain. In other words, for me, N/S is more with the grain in some areas, but S/N is more with the grain in others. So my first pass in N/S in some places and S/N in others. Stay with multiple "roughly" WTG (N/S and S/N) passes until your irritation problems pass. My experience is that irritation is often from trying to accomplish too much in any pass. The name of the game is beard reduction, and you may be better off with two passes with the same pattern keeping the blade angle as mild as possible.
As far as your prep goes, what you describe sound pretty thorough, but i think it is also important to give the lather a minute or two on your face before you begin that first pass. I think it is possible to over do the hot water prep bringing too much blood to the surface of the skin. I used to do the hot wash cloth thing, but eventually retreated to just wetting my face and neck really well while filling the sink. I face lather and leave the lather on my face while I do other things before beginning the first pass. I am assuming you are getting lather that feel slippery between your fingers and is giving you decent lubrication. I use an alum stick after the cold water rinse. It has a healing effect; it stings where you create irritation, but this is also a good indicator for working on technique. I let the alum sit for a minute or two while I am cleaning up and then rinse it when I feel it beginning to dry. Then I dry my face and apply after shave.
Recommendations for soaps are good--Proraso Green soft soap or cream (cream also branded as Bigelow), Cella (a soft soap not a cream), Speick (available as both a cream and shave stick) all provide good hydration, cushion and lubrication. I think the creams are marginally easier to lather, but depending on your water all should be easier than what you are using now.
For after shave I find the Proraso Green after shave and the Speick are neither too perfumy nor too old mannish, but tastes vary (and sadly I must admit that by your standards I am an old man). Neither one is very strong or lingering. I find the Proraso a bit more soothing. I agree that Nivea is healing but a bit greasy. OTH, applying at night, there would be no residue in the morning.
Alan
