Razor missing the looking function between scales and blade when blade is in stroppin

Usually the rear of the scales has a smaller distance between rear area due to the chamfer in the front distance making the scales bend. And the razor blade gets thicker in front of the rear pin.

The two things provide looking when blade is opened 180 degrees.

I have a Dovo razor with tree handle that totally miss this function. It seems to have trays between blade and scales.
As I bought it used I do not know if this is original or not. As the blade is rather thick in the grip area with grooves it works as it is but still a bit irritating.

Otherwise I love the tree handle, looks nice and is comfortable holding.

Anyone know if this is original with trays between blade and scales?

And yes, I know, I have a really serios first world problem issue.

The language barrier does make it a little tough, but I think I am following your question. Yes, the washers (trays) between the tang and the scales are very common and likely original to your razor.

Some language stuff in swedish first:
bricka = washer
trä = wood
låsning = locking

So if I read this right the hinge pin needs tightening. Here's a video that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb5dp6_JCMM

@Brianskeet, thanks for taking time to understand and answer, despite my poor English.

Any idea what the point could be using washers between the tang and wood scales when manufacture a brand new straight?

I found that it will help to avoid the pin collapse when we peen the ends down if the pivot hole is worn. According to this link:
http://www.coticule.be/rescaling.html

@BaldSwede, thanks for the mini lexicon!

Actually in that link he's adding a brass rod in the pivot hole itself to prevent "pin collapse " as he calls it , and it's not te washers between the scales and the shaft. They wouldn't do anything to prevent this and as he says they only serve to prevent wear. That means wear and scratches on the shaft ,around the makers mark, on the razor as it is opened and closed. Those washers only act as a shim between the shaft and the scales. You see them most often on a razor such as a Goldedge where the plating would be scratched easily running against the scale.

The whole " pin collapse" itself is rather dubious simply because hundreds of thousands of not millions of razors have been around for 100+ years without any problem now this guy is solving the problem? If that's a problem for him it's because of how he's peening the pins along with other things he's doing .

As he starts out saying " nothing is set in stone " . Granted he got the razor together but there was little there that I would follow or do to a razor .

And in the photo of the backlit razor those washers look rather fat as well as too small in diameter to be the best choice for the job.

*stefan* said:

@Brianskeet, thanks for taking time to understand and answer, despite my poor English.

Any idea what the point could be using washers between the tang and wood scales when manufacture a brand new straight?

I found that it will help to avoid the pin collapse when we peen the ends down if the pivot hole is worn. According to this link:
http://www.coticule.be/rescaling.html

@BaldSwede, thanks for the mini lexicon!

Click to expand...

The washers are just there to prevent wear between the tang and the scales. They are very common and most straights use them. The one thing that makes me think your razor may have been rescaled is the washers look a bit thicker than what I normally see. Difficult to say for certain. Post a few pictures of the scales and there might be some clues to figure out if it was ever rescaled or not. Don't worry about your English. I assure you it is FAR better than my Swedish!

Yup,that's exactly everything I just said. Thanks for agreeing with me. Except I don't think they are common enough that most straights use them.

[MENTION=28057]mycarver[/MENTION], you right it was a tube he used in the link
Ok, the washer is there to prevent wear.

I have been piening this razor several time but I reach a limit, does not help do it more with normal force with the rounded hammer. It would be great if the tang-scale was subjected to increased pressure when open the handle for stropping/honing.

And stropping/honing is rather important why I do not get why to make a new razor like this. If it is not rescaled.
Could be it is just my piening that needs improving. But I have don repiening on razors.

I like the razor anyway, shaves well and looks ok to me and I can strop it but not very fast.

[MENTION=59733]Brianskeet[/MENTION], you confirm mycarver about the washer. I put in some pictures:

There are a couple of factors I can see here.
1. The nature of razors with those washers between the shaft and the scale tend to be "loose" feeling. They don't generally have the friction and snug feeling you get with a razor without them. This does , as you say, give you a different feel when honing /stropping. I know as I just honed up 2 of them.
2. Smaller washers don't offer the surface area of larger shim washers so they tend to allow the scales to flop around more. Also the wood may be getting a bit polished where the washers are keeping it from getting to the snug feeling you're looking for.
3 . If under the peened head of the pin there are washers they must be quite small. If wider washers were under the peened head it would allow more pressure I be exerted over a larger surface without digging into the scales as these small washers ( if there are any?) are allowing the peened head to sink into the surface instead of spreading out the force.
i may not have explained it properly but I do hope you see what I'm getting at.

Here is an example . A #O washer ,,, a Wide ( which some guys try to use) and a truer shim
washer.
you can see by the sheer size the larger washer offers more surface area, will hold the blade steadier between the scales and offer more friction because of the size.
Also without the shim washer the friction is only between two surfaces. With the shim there is less friction because now you've doubled the surface allowing more slip to occur with the same amount of tension or pressure exerted by the pinning.

I responded to this but somehow my post ended up in the single edge forum ! I should stay with the larger screen on my laptop and forget the phone. Oh my!
Anyway , yes. With the scales in direct contact with the shaft the razor will go through ranges of being looser and tighter as you open and close it.
But with the small washers in there , the wood , lack of friction and you'll never have a razor that will be snug. Now throw some oil in there as some guys do and you have a razor that feels like an eel when you open / close / hone it. Just awful in my opinion .

I don't like washers, either.