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Adjust blade gap

Vintage Doc

Vintage Doc

I have a fatboy and love using it but just noticed the blade gap is uneven. Is this common? How do I fix it?
I was going to post pics but don't know how. :)
Also what oil should I use on my adjustables.
Thanks for the advice.
 
Mbg75

Mbg75

Pics would help. Is it uneven from one side to the other? Or on the same side?

Most times it can be massaged back with just your hands.
Try not to use any metal tools.
 
KeenDogg

KeenDogg

Slays On Fleek - For Rizz
I had a slim that was uneven from left to right. In that case, it was a simple push up on the side of the silo. Yours may be different.
 
Petri

Petri

I seem to be having a very similar problem with my newly acquired Slim, and it is only on one side, the other side is better but not perfect either. Would be happy to hear how others have fixed it.
$Slim.jpg
 
Mbg75

Mbg75

Petri said:
I seem to be having a very similar problem with my newly acquired Slim, and it is only on one side, the other side is better but not perfect either. Would be happy to hear how others have fixed it.
View attachment 656241
Click to expand...

That's not too bad. Looks tight on the left. You could try working the safety bar with your hands. Blade out of course.
Might have been dropped on that corner. How's the other side?
 
Vintage Doc

Vintage Doc

Mine is way more pronounced gap.
How do I get the pic on here so you guys can see it and give me advice on fixing it??
 
KeenDogg

KeenDogg

Slays On Fleek - For Rizz
Does the safety bar incline equally on the other side? It may be the silo that's bent.

Cordially,
Adam
 
C

CBLindsay

It's not the safety bar. They both look to be more in the silo door closure but hard to tell. DONT go bending the bars with everything still all together. Depending on the way it's put together you can remove the silo door part SUPER easy and avoid tears from "monkey hands". I'm not an expert (but we have one here on the forum) but I'll say more in a bit when I get more time.
 
Vintage Doc

Vintage Doc

CBLindsay said:
It's not the safety bar. They both look to be more in the silo door closure but hard to tell. DONT go bending the bars with everything still all together. Depending on the way it's put together you can remove the silo door part SUPER easy and avoid tears from "monkey hands". I'm not an expert (but we have one here on the forum) but I'll say more in a bit when I get more time.
Click to expand...

I was thinking maybe I should give it a good soaking cleaning polishing and oiling.
Maybe it's just sticking or hanging up.
Also when closing a fatboy it kinda stops at one point but then if you turn a smidge more it will turn and the stops totally. Do I stop at the first stop or the next one??
Hope that question makes sense.
What products are usually available locally for that?
 
C

CBLindsay

First. Yes you should tighten all TTO razors that last quarter turn. It should not be a fight but it is a firm quarter turn.
Next. I've posted here some photos of my fatboy with the silo door assembly removed. (I grabbed it on the way out the door to the office so I could show you). If you have a bottom like I've pictured then disassembly is done very quickly with a tool you can make using a spring clip (also shown).
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That spring is behind the little nut so keep your finger on it or you will be chasing it across the room. To fully remove the silo assembly you need to turn the nob a bit like you are unscrewing it as you pull it out. Once apart this is a great time to soak and clean.
You can NOW verify that the safety bar is or is not bent. You can see if maybe the rod for the silo doors is bent and you can tweak what ever you like.
The whole darn fatboy comes apart but that's not my story to tell. I followed capt's instructions on this one.
FYI if you have a pressed on bottom but then you just need to do it a little different but I can't easily explain it.
 
C

CBLindsay

Reassembling is sort of a reverse process but to get the door assembly to seat you need to OPEN then first, line up the rod so it can slide all the way in and as the assembly is dropped in, allow the doors the close. The final step is the twist the knob the screw the assembly down the final bit (revers of the first part when you had to twist to release the assembly). Then replace the spring and nut, press with your finger and make a half turn BACKWARDS to allow the threads to line up properly then twist to tighten. Finish tightening with your tool until the nut is flush with the bottom of the tto knob. Open and close to see that you get a smooth operation and that it still has a nice quarter turn to really tighten, if it doesn't seem to really tighten after a quarter turn...tighten the nut a little.
proxy.php
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KeenDogg

KeenDogg

Slays On Fleek - For Rizz
CBLindsay said:
It's not the safety bar. They both look to be more in the silo door closure but hard to tell. DONT go bending the bars with everything still all together. Depending on the way it's put together you can remove the silo door part SUPER easy and avoid tears from "monkey hands". I'm not an expert (but we have one here on the forum) but I'll say more in a bit when I get more time.
Click to expand...
This.

As far as clean up. Dawn, hot water, and a toothbrush. Let it soak in almost boiling water and dawn solution. Then, scrub it with your toothbrush. Repeat as necessary. Some use a drop of mineral oil for lube, but I never have. I believe there's a wiki on it as well.

Cordially,
Adam
 
KeenDogg

KeenDogg

Slays On Fleek - For Rizz
I was a little late on that. I see Chris has you shooting straight on it. Good Job Chris!
 
Vintage Doc

Vintage Doc

CBLindsay said:
Reassembling is sort of a reverse process but to get the door assembly to seat you need to OPEN then first, line up the rod so it can slide all the way in and as the assembly is dropped in, allow the doors the close. The final step is the twist the knob the screw the assembly down the final bit (revers of the first part when you had to twist to release the assembly). Then replace the spring and nut, press with your finger and make a half turn BACKWARDS to allow the threads to line up properly then twist to tighten. Finish tightening with your tool until the nut is flush with the bottom of the tto knob. Open and close to see that you get a smooth operation and that it still has a nice quarter turn to really tighten, if it doesn't seem to really tighten after a quarter turn...tighten the nut a little.
proxy.php
proxy.php
proxy.php
Click to expand...

Thank you so much. This is super helpful.
I plan on soaking it in hot water with a little dawn dish soap in it. Then a toothbrush scrubbing. Then oil and polish.
What oil and polish do you guys recommended? Yours looks mint in the pics
 
C

CBLindsay

Thanks [MENTION=109684]Vintage Doc[/MENTION] this is razor I picked up late last year and was in very poor operational condition. I tore it down and "fixed" it (I sanded and adjusted internal parts not shown in these photos) and repainted the numbers (very easy to do) and the red indicator. I painted the black ring too but ended up cleaning it all off in order to assemble it correctly and adjust the blade gap setting. It was not exactly hard to do but it required a lot of patience and ingenuity since things didn't go as planned at every step. It is far from mint but looks good and works well.
I don't oil any razors other than to help in reasonably and in that case I use lite silicone or even wd40. I tried PB-blaster on this razor-a penetrating oil (before breaking it down) and it did a super job of cleaning the nickel coat but stunk to high heaven for ever and took a lot of effort to remove, yet did nothing to help.
You will find a soap wash and soft rag do a huge amount to polish things up. But for polish I like to use either a liquid car polish (name escapes me but I can post it later) or an aluminum rim polish. If you have super fine (white) jewelers polish it can work too. Surprisingly a dip in lemon water and rub with soft cloth does what you see here
 
Vintage Doc

Vintage Doc

CBLindsay said:
Thanks [MENTION=109684]Vintage Doc[/MENTION] this is razor I picked up late last year and was in very poor operational condition. I tore it down and "fixed" it (I sanded and adjusted internal parts not shown in these photos) and repainted the numbers (very easy to do) and the red indicator. I painted the black ring too but ended up cleaning it all off in order to assemble it correctly and adjust the blade gap setting. It was not exactly hard to do but it required a lot of patience and ingenuity since things didn't go as planned at every step. It is far from mint but looks good and works well.
I don't oil any razors other than to help in reasonably and in that case I use lite silicone or even wd40. I tried PB-blaster on this razor-a penetrating oil (before breaking it down) and it did a super job of cleaning the nickel coat but stunk to high heaven for ever and took a lot of effort to remove, yet did nothing to help.
You will find a soap wash and soft rag do a huge amount to polish things up. But for polish I like to use either a liquid car polish (name escapes me but I can post it later) or an aluminum rim polish. If you have super fine (white) jewelers polish it can work too. Surprisingly a dip in lemon water and rub with soft cloth does what you see here
Click to expand...

Thank you
 
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