A few CBLindsay Custom 13/16's -Chrionicles of my early attempts

Well, I have been bitten by the Straight Razor bug for sure. I find these things VERY fun to look at and play with as well as being pretty fun to shave with. At first I was just happy (ecstatic) to have my own hand crafted razor made by [MENTION=6128]Seraphim[/MENTION]. Inspired by people like Seraphim and Slash McCoy, It didn't take long for me to want to MAKE my own. Fortunately, [MENTION=30791]Slash McCoy[/MENTION] has provided tasty tid-bits on how HE modifies Gold Dollar 66 razors. With the help of several others, I learned the basics of making scales and eventually stumbled on the ability to get a shave ready edge using EVERY possible hone medium I could.

It has taken me some serious hours and a ton of dumb-luck to make them but I would like to share my 3 "CBLindsay Custom" straight razors.

*See the next 3 posts for photo's and details*

CBL Custom #1 ("Berta" - the teacher)
Scales: Orange Wood
Wedge: Tiger Maple
Pin(s): Flat filed and peened micro-fasteners (Brass)
Finish: Cyanoacrylate
Weight: 47.8g
Length of scales: 5.25" (Total Length 6" Closed)
Blade Width: 13/16"
Blade Length: 2.63"
Spine Thickness: 0.22" (approx.)
Estimated Bevel Angle: 17-18 degrees (*Primary bevel width measured to where spine first touches hone)

Description: This razor was my first attempt (The Scales are one of three set in my first attempt at scale making). The tang design and shape of the blade were based on my early understanding of what I "like" to use. This was also my first successfully honed blade, it has had many "re-hones" as I learned what it means to hone correctly. With the most recent honing done on the "welsh trio" of stones, this blade is quite enjoyable to use. Well balanced with a perfect mix of keenness and smoothness.

CBL Custom #2 ("The American")
Scales: Curly Maple
Wedge: 2016 Nickel (Coin)
Pin(s): flat filed and peened micro-fasteners (Brass)
Finish: Red/Blue stain & Cyanoacrylate
Weight: 50.7g
Length of scales: 5.5" (Total Length 6.31" Closed)
Blade Width: 13/16"
Blade Length: 2.63"
Spine Thickness: 0.20-0.21" (approx.)
Estimated Bevel Angle: 16-17 degrees (*Primary bevel width measured to where spine first touches hone)

Description: This razor was made using more developed methods (this is when I found Slash's more detailed "how to" instructions) and includes a substantially thinned spine and additional hollowing of the blade. The wedge on these scales is made from a real 2016 Nickel, hammered and sanded into shape. This blade has had a bevel set on a 1k before being refined on a Coticule (which I like very much but am still learning to use) and finished on a Chinese Natural estimated at 12k. Like my other razors the edge is further refined using pasted balsa. This is my first time making and using a thumb notch, which makes it feel different in hand. The shave is very comfortable and the blade is both keen and smooth, although it seems less sharp and more finicky than my first custom blade.

CBL Custom #3
Scales: Canvas Wrapped Bass Wood
Wedge: Canvas Wrapped Bass Wood (Hardened w/Cyanoacrylate)
Pin(s): flat filed micro-fasteners (Brass)
Finish: Cyanoacrylate
Weight: 47.5g
Length of scales: 4.56" (Total Length 5.56")
Blade Width: 13/16"
Blade Length: 2.25"
Spine Thickness: 0.22-" (approx.)
Estimated Bevel Angle: 17 +/- degrees (*Primary bevel width measured to where spine first touches hone)

Description: This blade is one from my earlier attempts that resulted in a broken toe, I have since shortened the blade and modified the design somewhat to improve balance and usability. The Spine has been thinned although not as much as "The American". The scales are made from bass wood that has been sanded and shaped then wrapped in 10oz canvas and sealed in Cyanoacrylate. The blade has had the bevel set on a 1k/3k with further refining done on 5k King. The edge was worked and refined on BBW & Coticule then Film (3u,2u,1u) and finally pasted balsa 0.5u, 0.25u & 0.1u. I have used this razor only once (today) and it was enjoyable to use however the edge still has a "harsh" feel.
*yeah, I know my honing choices are overkill, but I am still relying on Dumb Luck ...More methods equals better chances!

Wow!! Those are all amazing! Very well executed.

Nice work, Chris

Nicely Done Chris, very nicely done

BSAGuy said:

Wow!! Those are all amazing! Very well executed.

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Parjay said:

Nice work, Chris

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skypsyd said:

Nicely Done Chris, very nicely done

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Thanks Guys, they are a lot of fun to shave with too. I can see little things I would have done differently (mostly in the scales) and someday I hope to be able to make a couple of really cool ones that I see no flaws in. Keep an eye on the Saint Sue Auction, I might be able to sneak in the time to get one in there (nothing at all like the REAL pros make but nice enough to make someone happy).

Way to go!

Nicely done.

I am very interested in the micro fasteners. Is it just bolt and nut, or more to it?

Those are all really cool. Very creative. Great work, Chris!

Very very nice...and you get to use them which makes it all that much better!

CBLindsay said:

(*Primary bevel width measured to where spine first touches hone)

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Just to be clear, you mean the 'top' of the hone wear closest to the spine and the same place as you measure the spine thickness; correct?

bluesman 7 said:

Just to be clear, you mean the 'top' of the hone wear closest to the spine and the same place as you measure the spine thickness; correct?

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Yes...I can't believe you just said that. It took me 3 months to figure that out and you just spilled it right here. Nowhere in everything I read is that connection made blatantly clear. I had to draw scale pictures and lay the darn things on glass so I could look under it the see what what happening. I also found that early observations were not consistent,only after a solid bevel was set did I get clear and consistent visual reference points.
I kept measuring to the top of the spine until I cut the top of the spine off the second and third razor...I thought "hey, I just changed that measurement but it still sits the same on the glass". Then I spent months trying t let that sink in.

The reason I have ranged listed is my calipers have only a 2 digit after the decimal display and a .03 listed accuracy. I plan to take better photos and try to get far more accurate measurements. Not that it really matters for anything more than general knowledge.
FWIW, I am thinking the slightly thinner spine on "The American" may have made an angle that is more unstable based on my still unrefined shaving style. That blade seems more finicky when it comes to feeling consistently sharp. It seems to fade more quickly.

The Vorpal blade I got from Seraphim went 50 shaves being maintained per Slash's balsa routine before fading (because I started playing with other methods ...stupid me).

By the way Bluesman, you were very instrumental in helping me get started in the blade modification game. I had that Genco with a frown and you were one of those who gave clear constructive input. Thanks.

Dools said:

Way to go!

Nicely done.

I am very interested in the micro fasteners. Is it just bolt and nut, or more to it?

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Basically it's a small nut and a bolt about the size of a regular brass pin. I also got a couple sizes of washers that fit under the nut/bolt end. I forget at the moment what the size is. The bolts can also be cut off at both ends and peened like a pin (they seem harder though). They are VERY cool because you can fasten things tight for fitting and testing purposes then take apart. I also like a tighter fit/feel at the pivot so I crank it tight before cutting and filing.

If you want me to send you a couple just pm me and I'll put a set in the mail.

If you want me to send you a couple just pm me and I'll put a set in the mail.

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Thank you, very much, but no. I can get those at my local hardware store, and I have....stainless steel.....I can also get the washers in various sizes.

What I am looking for, if it exists, is a female threaded tube, the size of a pin, or a tiny bit bigger. Then, I would use shorter bolts, from both sides and avoid using a nut. Don't know if anything like that exists.

Anyway, I am definitely going to use the micro fasteners for mock-up this next set of scales which I'm making out of Ash. Thanks for the encouragement.

Dools said:

Thank you, very much, but no. I can get those at my local hardware store, and I have....stainless steel.....I can also get the washers in various sizes.

What I am looking for, if it exists, is a female threaded tube, the size of a pin, or a tiny bit bigger. Then, I would use shorter bolts, from both sides and avoid using a nut. Don't know if anything like that exists.

Anyway, I am definitely going to use the micro fasteners for mock-up this next set of scales which I'm making out of Ash. Thanks for the encouragement.

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Yes, exactly what you describe DOES exist. Finding in small diameter might be the limiting factor, I found them (similar to Chicago bolts I used when making a strop) but the smallest size was a bit larger than the 1/8 inch OD I was looking for.
What you find at the hardware store might be a size larger than your pivot hole (I had this problem) If that's the case let me know.

Never heard them called Chicago screws. I think they are called screw-posts at my hardware store, and yes, only 1/8, nothing smaller.

I even thought about trying to find the smallest tap there is and make my own.....But, I had good success with peening, much to my surprise, so I am going to use that technique again and continue to explore the micro fasteners.

Thank you again for your kindness. Looking forward to seeing your next project.

CBLindsay said:

Yes, exactly what you describe DOES exist. Finding in small diameter might be the limiting factor, I found them (similar to Chicago bolts I used when making a strop) but the smallest size was a bit larger than the 1/8 inch OD I was looking for.
What you find at the hardware store might be a size larger than your pivot hole (I had this problem) If that's the case let me know.

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Dools said:

Never heard them called Chicago screws. I think they are called screw-posts at my hardware store, and yes, only 1/8, nothing smaller.

I even thought about trying to find the smallest tap there is and make my own.....But, I had good success with peening, much to my surprise, so I am going to use that technique again and continue to explore the micro fasteners.

Thank you again for your kindness. Looking forward to seeing your next project.

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I run a 1-72 tap into 3/32" OD brass tubing to make my barrels

CBLindsay said:

The reason I have ranged listed is my calipers have only a 2 digit after the decimal display and a .03 listed accuracy. I plan to take better photos and try to get far more accurate measurements. Not that it really matters for anything more than general knowledge.
.

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I use a clear ruler to make the hypotenuse measurement. It is easy to line up on the edge without damage. Accuracy is reasonable as 1 degree is close to 1/16" on the hypotenuse of normal size razors. I use a micrometer on the spine thickness, but a caliper could be used here. Digital calipers are $10-$20 now and the ones that I have checked always agreed with my mics

I run a 1-72 tap into 3/32" OD brass tubing to make my barrels

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Great. Than you.