Could be a bad batch of beans? I've always assumed that making a pour over cup will give you a good idea of how an espresso will turn out.
-jim
-jim
I started at a 6 where it looked similar to what I was getting with the hario. It was really fast (10) and under extracted. Yesterday went to a 5 with minor improvements. Tonight's try at a 4 was still too fast (14) and a little bitter. It has good crema and color but some grounds in the bottom of the cup.Unless it is mis-designed you will only get about a half porafilter of old grounds when you start.
What kind of awful are you getting?
Too fast?
Too slow
Sour?
biter?
What are you using for a tamper and have you tried to adjust your tamp pressure?
There are more variables to making espresso than there are to shaving.
+1 on Grindz. Espresso Parts have been good for us.Have you cleaned it with Grindz or minute rice? If not you should try that.
That is looking a lot better. Perhaps could try adding a gram more of coffee to this setup to see if that improves the shot.Just to test my beans I went back to my manual grinder on the same 2 notch setting I always use. Here's a video from that. The shot was really frothy and after it settled ended up being about 1.5 oz. The taste was bold and strong. Still seems to fast after re watching the video.https://vimeo.com/164936831
I tested it this morning with 14g of Uganda from Bridge Street at 2 on the MDF. It was similar to the results I was getting with the manual grinder. Lots of crema and good taste. I'm not sure if the Uganda bean is just different than what I've been having recently or if it's a bit bitter. I'll have to try the Costa Rica tonight with those settings.
I think I'm getting closer to good results. I haven't used the pressurized portafilter for a few months now and wonder if I've just really never had my grind fine enough. I still have it in my head that other people grind at 4-6 with the MDF so that's where mine should be with new burrs. With all the variables I guess it's just about fine tuning your setup to what works.
It is my understanding that burr sets are generally designed so that they can touch each other without causing any real damage to the burrs, so in that sense there may be no worries. Of course one does not want to put an unnecessary load on the electric motor or extra wear on the burrs, especially if done by a powerful electric motor. I am not familiar with the MDF or its burr set but I would be very surprised to learn that it was designed to only go down to espresso while at the same time start touching. My Lido 2 hand grinder can go many notches below Turkish setting before it starts to touch or zero out. The beans stop feeding down into the burrs (the beans are too big to fit into the top opening gap) well before the burrs start touch. Which makes me wonder if your MDF burrs became misaligned or something during reassembly? I might suggest taking it apart again to check and carefully reassemble, as it sounds like something is amiss. I have a KitchenAid Burr Grinder which I have not zero'd in many years so my memory is weak on the details, but it behaved quite differently than the Lido in that it could feed beans on the lowest setting (which I think was below espresso but I need to try again to see), so I am not trying to say that your MDF will also not feed on zero/1 setting. The KitchenAid sort of works for Espresso, but there was not enough steps and control of the grind, so I mainly use it for drip brewing these days.I think there is definitely a problem somewhere. The burrs are just touching at 2. I can hear it when the beans have run through (I grind what i dose). The stream wand leak issue that has developed is what I'm questioning. Not sure if that is throwing the pressure off. I can take some pics of the ground coffee at a few levels but I think the grinder is similar to what it was doing before. Maybe it's just not good enough though.