Razor Bump Problem

Hey everyone! I'm just now joining B&B and you seem like a great community! So I'm about to start a new job where being clean shaven (almost BBS) is 100% required every single day (they're very strict). Now I just started shaving every day again, I stopped because of pretty severe razor burn and ingrowns. I've been doing research and switched from an electric razor and a gillette 5 blade something or other do a Merkur DE razor, with Astra blades. I love it a lot, and its really helped my skin overall, but i'm still having lots of trouble with ingrown hairs. I have extremely sensitive skin, and thick course facial hair, that's dark brown (so there's no cheating here, its gotta be BBS or you can see it) Right now i do one pass WTG, then a pass XTG on my face, and Sideways across the grain on my neck. I use a Basin brushless all natural shave cream, with Nivea face scrub (usually in the shower right before) and ive tried a few different aftershave balms, right now i used Dove for men.
Ive heard people talk about Tend Skin, is that good? does anyone have any tips?

TheTinDog said:

Hey everyone! I'm just now joining B&B and you seem like a great community! So I'm about to start a new job where being clean shaven (almost BBS) is 100% required every single day (they're very strict). Now I just started shaving every day again, I stopped because of pretty severe razor burn and ingrowns. I've been doing research and switched from an electric razor and a gillette 5 blade something or other do a Merkur DE razor, with Astra blades. I love it a lot, and its really helped my skin overall, but i'm still having lots of trouble with ingrown hairs. I have extremely sensitive skin, and thick course facial hair, that's dark brown (so there's no cheating here, its gotta be BBS or you can see it) Right now i do one pass WTG, then a pass XTG on my face, and Sideways across the grain on my neck. I use a Basin brushless all natural shave cream, with Nivea face scrub (usually in the shower right before) and ive tried a few different aftershave balms, right now i used Dove for men.
Ive heard people talk about Tend Skin, is that good? does anyone have any tips?

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Where are you getting the razor bumps and burn? I'm thinking your neck. I have sensitive skin and when I first started de shaving, I produced a lot of razor burn on my neck. Regardless where you get it, I'll give a shot at a suggestion. Map your beard growth first. If it grows sideways on your cheeks, you'll have to change the direction for the first pass to be wtg. Second pay attention to technique and pressure. Now that you understand that, do your first wtg pass. Take it easy and remember, it's beard reduction so you'll still have hair after the first pass. Second pass, go xtg and remember your beard mapping so dont screw up and go agt on some areas if the growth pattern changes in certain areas. Now when you go atg, dont just go immediately agt on your more sensitive areas. Instead of going straight down or up(depending on your growth pattern), try going x on these spots. I do this on my neck. My hair grows up so instead of going straight down atg, I make an x pass to get it reduced more without irritating me, then I go straight atg. I rinse, then I splash cold water on my face and neck. Try not to rub alum on the area you're prone to irritation, as it may be counterproductive in those areas. Follow with aftershave or balm and I believe you'll be good. If not and you still get bumps, the grooming lounge makes something for razor bumps called the shavior. There may be cheaper products that do the same but thats what I have. Hope it helps. Happy shaving.

Oh and I've tried pre shave oil, hot towels, and other things to help the prep process. I quickly realized they didn't help me and my technique and pressure was what did the trick. Lot of trial and error until the light bulb went off lol.

Alright I'll try that. Thanks for the tips. It is mostly on my neck like what everyone else seems to have problems with; after learning how to properly shave its really cleared up everywhere else. I'm really picky about it though. I'm still perfecting my technique, and like what you said I've found that different products don't really change much in the irritation sense. Though I have discovered that exfoliating with a softer shave brush instead of a rough loofa really helps too, at least for my skin. Thanks for the advice!

Try a glycerin based soap like Pears or Neutrogena on your beard. Wash in the shower as you now do then shave right after, starting with another wash with the glycerin based soap. You may want to leave it on and lather over it.

To help mitigate razor burn and cut down on nicks and weepers, you should use your off (free) hand and stretch your skin in the area you are shaving.

Grab your skin at the base of your side burns and pull up for your back cheek area and puff air into your cheeks for shaving around the front of your cheeks.

Grab your throat with the flat of your hand below your lather an pull down for your neck and throat, moving your hand around as you shave to stay below your razor.

Grab your cheeks and pull back to stretch your chin.

You do not need to keep your skin tight as a snare drum, just keep it taught so that it does not roll up in front of the blade.

You can make silly faces to help stretch areas that are hard to reach

If you find you have a difficult time holding where you have lathered, rubbing your fingers on an alum block will give them enough grip to hold on to a wet or lathered area

Practice where and how to stretch as well as how much you need to stretch when you are NOT shaving. This way it will become natural when you are shaving

This will help your razor glide over your skin instead of bunching it up in front of the blade as you move it.

If you have irritation after your shave try some Nivea sensitive aftershave balm. It will kill the "fires of hell" razor burn.

Sometimes, a certain razor just doesn't work out for some folks (which is one of the reasons there are so many to choose from). I struggled with an Edwin Jagger DE89 for a while - one of the most highly recommended razors out there, and it just didn't work for me. Every time I shaved my neck, it felt like I was getting waxed. The end result was a bunch of red spots which quickly turned into bumps. Tried different blades, different techniques, and nothing worked. Being intrigued with the slant bar razors, I picked up a Merkur 37c, and it changed everything - it is by far the most comfortable, gentle, forgiving razor I have ever tried. Razor bumps are gone, and my skin looks fantastic. Definitely something to consider....

I had the same problem when I first started de shaving, and just thought that I would never have a smooth, irritation free neck. Through trial and error, I've learned to shave and get my neck smooth without all the bumps that used to come with it. Some things I tried differently that might help you out...

1. I stopped using the sharpest blades I could find, and went with what felt comfortable. In my two razors I used to use feathers and personna comfort coated, now I use rapira platinum lux and shark stainless. Also, I limit the blades to only three uses. I want to get rid of them before they start pulling and tugging, that's when I know I'm going to get bumps and irritation.

2. In the area I used to get bumps, I shave with a slight angle to the razor. Think like you're using a straight bar as a slant razor. That seems to slice a bit more efficiently than just cutting straight across the hair and works great for me. I only do this in my former trouble spot because it takes a bit more effort and concentration.

3. This is the point that really required experimenting. On my first pass, I used to go top to bottom (wtg) above the jaw line, but because of erratic pattern/swirl under my chin I would go bottom to top along the neck. Now, I go top to bottom all the way on my first pass. I can't explain why, but when I started doing this my neck started cutting smoother and more efficiently. I guess for me it was hard to identify which direction was truly atg on my neck, so I had to learn which direction to avoid. Once I started doing this, my neck cleared up in three or four days and has been smooth and irritation free ever since.

Also, never skimp on the preshave routine. I've learned that that's just as important as all the other soaps, blades, and razor combinations when it comes to getting a good shave. I always use either an after shave splash/nivea balm or witch hazel/scented balm combination for post shave. When I first started de shaving, I thought I had it figured out in a week or two. Honestly, it took about six months shaving six days a week for me to truly understand my face, and what soaps and equipment works for me. Part of the fun is figuring all that out, but the satisfaction from knowing that you shave like a boss is incredible. Kind of like that feeling you get when you smoke your first successful brisket, but getting that feeling every day. Hope that helps, enjoy the journey.

I have very curly, coarse hair as well and suffered terribly from razor burn and ingrown hairs from cartridge razors. The more blades, the worse it got. And an electric was even worse!! I have not been on the site long, but the wealth of information has been invaluable.

That said, I want to recommend cold water shaving to you.
I have been cold water shaving for about a month and a half with both DE and straights and I feel as though I have finally solved the mystery. My routine is as follows:

1. I start by soaking my brush (I am partial to my Semogue 620, but I have two Omega boar hair and a Simpson's CL1 badger that rocks) in cold water as I shower. I also, depending on the hardness of the soap, will bloom with cool water.

2. I shower as normal but add conditioner to my beard and let it sit. As my shower ends, I gradually make the water cooler and rinse my beard last with pretty cold water.

3. I load a blade in my Merkur 37c slant. I find I need fewer passes with the slant bar. Fewer passes for me equals less irritation. With regard to blades, I use anything from Personna Lab Blues, to Astras, to Feathers. I also have a Böker Silver Steel 6/8, a Böker Edelweiss 5/8 and a Sight Unseen from Whipped Dog. The process remains the same no matter the blade.

4. I admit to having SAD and have a range of soaps including Arko, Tabac, Barrister and Mann Latha (3 scents), Haslinger Schafmilch und Lanolin, several Soap Commander scents, Stirling, Zartgefühl Ziegenbart, Sampson's All Natural and perhaps a few others I'm omitting. Nevertheless, I load the brush, and really take my time building lather.

5. I shave as normal (WTG and XTG for me with a DE. I can go ATG with a straight.) ensuring that I use NO PRESSURE. I do find that with the DE razors, my beard mapping is more vital that with the Straights and I wish I could provide insight as to why that is. Alas, I cannot. I always ensure not to go over areas that I know are prone to ingrown hairs unless I have lather as a protectant.

6. Once I'm happy with the closeness of the shave, I rinse with cold water, use an AS splash (I am partial to Fine, but I have others) and then I apply either Zartgefühl Prinz Charming or Sampson's All Natural AS balm. Both available at www.thesuperiorshave.com.

As with all things shaving related YMMV, but for me, the cold water shave has been my epiphany.

I hope that this helps. Please contact me with any questions. Good luck!

Matthew

First, Welcome to B&B. Second, having suffered ingrown in the past, follow some of the helpful tips you have here, but remember, it takes a while for the ingrown hairs to work their way out. Even if you get zero new events, it will take some time, so be patient, and good luck!

Agree with mattya1lc. Correct angle 30degrees. coldwater shave. Start in shower with facial soap like basis, cetaphil, etc.
I add finish with witch hazel as your aftershave. Walk away. Dress. Add moisturizing aftershave if you like.
Think of witch hazel as a nice natural clearasil/salyclic acid/glyclolic acid skin cleanser. without all the hate of those (dryness).
Some of moisturizing your skin is actually TIMING.
Do not give up on a product if you get one ingrown. toothbrush it out
Purpose/basis/cetaphil your face daily. Any shower temp---weekend---exfoliate---Neutrogena blue w glycolic or any you prefer
Coldwater shave. I despise it. Face loves it.
Mantic59 videos. The guru. He will show you how to lather, how to shave, and at the proper angle.

I typically find when I have numerous ingrowns reverting to the Neutrogena blue liquid eliminates them quickly.

Great advice and suggestions here.