Learned some DIY Aftershave cautions

I recently learned some interesting information about certain essential oils I was using to make homemade aftershave. I happened upon this information by accident as well.
Apparently certain essential oils are phototoxic. Bergamot and other citrus essential oils to be exact in my case. This means that these oils, when used topically and exposed to sunlight or UV, can cause severe damage/irritation and even skin cancer in some cases.
This doesn't exactly mean that these oils are completely unsafe to use. Depending on whether they are produced through a cold press or steam distilled method, greatly determines the the amount of toxicity. Steam distilled being the safest.
In my case, I was using way to much bergamot essential oil. My only real saving grace is that I hadn't used it more than a couple times and only at night.
It's always amazing when you discover that something you thought was harmless could indeed cause a great deal of harm. In this instance there is definitely such a thing as too much of a good thing.
By the way, the aftershave I made smelled fantastic. 2oz 190 proof grain alcohol, 1/8 oz glycerin, 100 drops bergamot essential oil, 10 drops anise essential oil, 5 drops lavender essential oil, and 1/8 teaspoon menthol crystals. Way too much bergamot as you can see.

100? Holy cow!
Good info here, very interesting.

TheVez2 said:

100? Holy cow!
Good info here, very interesting.

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You would think that I'd reek of bergamot for a week after putting some on, but in reality after 15 minutes you'd have to press your nose to my face to smell it. Aftershaves made with essential oils fade real fast.

Citrus oils in general are short lived. That's why it's so hard to get a good lime aftershave with any lasting power.

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing. I want to try DIY eventually and will keep this in mind.

Very good info thanks

DCRIII said:

2oz 190 proof grain alcohol, 1/8 oz glycerin, 100 drops bergamot essential oil, 10 drops anise essential oil, 5 drops lavender essential oil, and 1/8 teaspoon menthol crystals. Way too much bergamot as you can see.

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I would say you used too much not only bergamot but other essential oils as well. For aftershaves, lotions & creams the amount of essential oils should not exceed 0.5% - 1.5% of the total volume. Otherwise you could easily irritate your skin. As a general rule of thumbs - 20 drops is roughly 1ml/0.034oz. So for 100ml/3.4oz bottle (liquid) 20 drops of essential oils is approx 1%. So for 2oz bottle there should be about 12 drops and no more than 18 drops in total. You used 115 which is 6.4 times more. Quite dangerous...

Tagging this to refer back to as I start down the home brew road...

When making aftershaves, as long as you only use steam distilled essential oils, your aftershaves will be entirely safe. It is only certain, cold pressed essential oils that can be Phototoxic. And even the cold pressed can be rendered safe to use, if one follows the proper dilution charts for that particular oil.

Dilution charts are easily found online.

Great to know ... I have half a dozen EOs, going to check.


AA

Super information. Thanks for the post.

dewynter said:

I would say you used too much not only bergamot but other essential oils as well. For aftershaves, lotions & creams the amount of essential oils should not exceed 0.5% - 1.5% of the total volume. Otherwise you could easily irritate your skin. As a general rule of thumbs - 20 drops is roughly 1ml/0.034oz. So for 100ml/3.4oz bottle (liquid) 20 drops of essential oils is approx 1%. So for 2oz bottle there should be about 12 drops and no more than 18 drops in total. You used 115 which is 6.4 times more. Quite dangerous...

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+1
Also, steam distillation does not exempt certain citrus essential oils from being phototoxic. Bergamot is, regardless of distillation method, I believe.

OkieStubble said:

When making aftershaves, as long as you only use steam distilled essential oils, your aftershaves will be entirely safe. It is only certain, cold pressed essential oils that can be Phototoxic. And even the cold pressed can be rendered safe to use, if one follows the proper dilution charts for that particular oil.

Dilution charts are easily found online.

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Good info.

Does anyone know here off hand if the traditional bottled aftershaves we buy like the various Clubman(s), Aqua Velva, Skin Bracer, Old Spice etc.... are photo toxic?

HexChrome said:

Good info.

Does anyone know here off hand if the traditional bottled aftershaves we buy like the various Clubman(s), Aqua Velva, Skin Bracer, Old Spice etc.... are photo toxic?

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Most if not all drug store type aftershaves, use synthetic fragrance oils, (Aroma Chemicals)which are created mainly from synthetic aldehydes and keytones instead of natural essential oils.

While the myth is, that synthetic fragrances are cheaper to use in modern aftershaves and colognes than essential oils, they are in fact more expensive to produce and manufacture. Synthetics are used because of phototoxic risks with essentials, but mostly they are used, because perfumers can be much more exact and precise in their science with research & development of scents.

Modern perfumers have gotten so good and precise at creating scents, they have basically turned it into a science.

Smattayu said:

+1
Also, steam distillation does not exempt certain citrus essential oils from being phototoxic. Bergamot is, regardless of distillation method, I believe.

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The easiest way to avoid photosensitization is to not apply a furanocoumarin containing essential oil to the skin at all.

Many people write off all citrus essential oils and Bergamot as being phototoxic, but there are several that are safe to use, including steam-distilled versions. Although furanocoumarins are present in cold pressed versions, the molecules are not volatile and remain behind during steam distillation.

Sun-safe essential oils include:

• Bergamot – steam distilled – bergapten-free/furanocoumarin-free* (Citrus bergamia, Citrus aurantium)
• Lemon -steam distilled (Citrus x limon, Citrus limonum)
• Lime – steam distilled (Citrus x aurantifolia, Citrus x latifolia)
• Mandarin – cold pressed (Citrus reticulata)
• Orange, Sweet – cold pressed (Citrus sinensis, Citrus aurantium var. sinensis)
• Tangerine – cold pressed (Citrus reticulata, Citrus nobilis, Citrus tangerine)

http://www.usingeossafely.com/phototoxic-essential-oils-which-ones-to-avoid-when-out-in-the-sun/

good gab right there.

This is great information to know! Thankfully the dilution guidelines are easy to follow.