- Thread starter
- #81
Oh yeah, I'm not freaking out over it. I know the risks and the danger involved.
Newbie needs a reloading press for under $500.
- Thread starter Toothpick
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- Thread starter
- #82
OK so here is everything I got spread out on my new reloading bench.
I know I need dies. But anything else that might be useful?
I know I need dies. But anything else that might be useful?
Was this from a PIF? If so, the best one I have ever seen. This thread had me looking into reloading. I was looking at a similar setup which is about $325. This package doesn't include a a trimmer which I believe you have.
I would love to see a post on how things go. I am debating this setup or a Dillon square deal.
I just bought around a half case of 44 mag and it set me back $500. Reloading seems like it will payoff quick with these kind of ammo prices. With new gun control on the horizon, I expect people to begin hoarding. Availability and prices could become a problem.
Congrats and thanks to all the posters for the education.
Take care,
Jason (not the OP)
I would love to see a post on how things go. I am debating this setup or a Dillon square deal.
I just bought around a half case of 44 mag and it set me back $500. Reloading seems like it will payoff quick with these kind of ammo prices. With new gun control on the horizon, I expect people to begin hoarding. Availability and prices could become a problem.
Congrats and thanks to all the posters for the education.
Take care,
Jason (not the OP)
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Last time there was a shortage Primers were hard to get. Then powder was hard to get. I dunno what will be next, but figure out your needs and stock up a reasonable amount. I have enough components for several thousand rounds of various calibers.
A primer tool can speed things up, you de-prime and resize then use the handheld tool to prime.
Also a place to clamp the powder measure to, of course you can mount it on the press but I always thought that was slower.
Also a place to clamp the powder measure to, of course you can mount it on the press but I always thought that was slower.
- Thread starter
- #86
A priming tool like this?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/329291/rcbs-hand-priming-tool
It would be quicker than using the die and press? Is that because the tool can hold 100 primers and when you do it with the press you have to manually place the primer?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/329291/rcbs-hand-priming-tool
It would be quicker than using the die and press? Is that because the tool can hold 100 primers and when you do it with the press you have to manually place the primer?
Yes that's it. It's pretty mindless after you get a feel for it. You can watch TV while you do it.
There are numerous priming tools on the market and most are better than press mounted priming tools. My two favorite tools are the RCBS bench mounted tool and the Sinclair Int'l hand held tool, the latter is slower but the most precise priming tool made.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...nd-tools/sinclair-priming-tool-prod37732.aspx
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...nd-tools/sinclair-priming-tool-prod37732.aspx
- Thread starter
- #89
OK, so I need a priming tool it seems.
I'm already glad I got a bigger bench!
I'm already glad I got a bigger bench!
Not an absolute requirement, you can prime on the press, just much more efficient with a separate tool.
Might want one of these, but not required. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/550505/rcbs-powder-measure-stand
Everyone is different , but I found batch prepping faster and easier to focus on the task at hand. So for myself I:
Soak brass in lemishine. This brightens up the brass and softens up the gunk in the primer pockets. This also seems to reduce the dust when decapping but ymmv.
Decap and resize
Tumble brass cause I like purty shiny cases
Prime
When I need ammo I set my turret with powder bullet seat and factory crimp die and go to work. Sometimes I batch load the powder 50 at a time if the powder I am using is one that won't over fill a case with a double charge.
I used to decap first but I worry about the lead exposure since I reload inside and my kids are still young. So far this method seems to be ok.
Soak brass in lemishine. This brightens up the brass and softens up the gunk in the primer pockets. This also seems to reduce the dust when decapping but ymmv.
Decap and resize
Tumble brass cause I like purty shiny cases
Prime
When I need ammo I set my turret with powder bullet seat and factory crimp die and go to work. Sometimes I batch load the powder 50 at a time if the powder I am using is one that won't over fill a case with a double charge.
I used to decap first but I worry about the lead exposure since I reload inside and my kids are still young. So far this method seems to be ok.
- Thread starter
- #93
I'll be reloading inside....what type of lead exposure should I worry about?
should i wear gloves or...
should i wear gloves or...
From what I understand it's the primer residue and dust generated when tumbling brass. Handling the bullets, if lead, are less of an issue especially if you just wash your hands after.
I guess now is a good time as any. We need to talk about cleaning the brass now.
- Thread starter
- #96
I should have just stuck with shaving!
I don't need to clean new brass right?
I don't need to clean new brass right?
Nope... no need to if it comes clean.
I never bit the bullet and went with stainless media tumbling. Very tempted though. The lemishine soak was a good compromise.
If you go the vibratory case cleaning route, use crushed walnut shell media, not corn cob. The latter gets stuck in the primer pocket flash holes of your brass, walnut passes through. Put some dryer anti cling sheets in with the walnut media, it collects the dust and your media stays cleaner. I never worried too much about the lead dust other than washing my hands thoroughly after handling, I don't wear gloves, but do what you think is best. I de-prime, clean, then resize my brass, and prime.
Look for vibratory tumblers and media at hardware stores, Northern Tool, or Harbor Freight. They are a lot less expensive if they aren't branded by a reloading tool supplier, but are the same tool and media. Some of those same places will have wet tumblers and stainless steel media as well.
Keep in mind that if you are using a vibratory tumbler you will want an unfinished concrete surface to run it on. I haven't run mine anywhere other than the garage floor, but suspect it would make a racket if I ran it on the bench and possibly wear the finish off the painted basement floor at the house.
Maybe somebody else here can confirm what I 've read that the walnut shells will give a satin finish to your cleaned brass as opposed to the bright finish you would get from cobs. Neither finish is good nor bad, just that walnut shell will be a little different finish from factory fresh cases.
Cob media has worked OK for me but I'm planning on switching to walnut. I clean first and then decap, size and prime on the turret press. When I have decapped first I had a lot of problems with the cob getting stuck in the flash hole, and the cob really didn't seem to clean the primer pockets anyway. Changing to walnut will solve both of those problems, but I'm too cheap to toss the half jug of cob that I have on hand.
A used dryer sheet torn into thirds will pick up a lot of the dirt that would otherwise wind up in your media. It's time to change it when you are questioning whether I really want to touch it or not. I probably should change it more often than that.
I try to minimize lead exposure by separating cases from media outside so that any dust blows away. I probably should wear a dust mask when I'm harvesting brass at the range by sifting through the buckets of spent cases. Wearing a glove on the hand that handles the brass while reloading wouldn't be a bad idea, but I don't know that it's strictly necessary.
If you are going to decap and then clean, consider getting a universal decapping die or a handheld, off the press decapping tool. It will keep your sizing dies cleaner than using them to decap dirty brass.
If you are using Lee dies consider getting The UniqueTek Perfect adapter. They have a version that allows you to attach the RCBS Uniflow powder measure or several others to the top of the expanding die. I used the Lee Perfect powder measure version of this (different threads in that bushing) and it worked quite well.
For an off the press priming tool consider spending the extra money to get one that uses standard case holders or doesn't need one at all. I have a Lee Auto-Prime which works well enough, but the cost of the proprietary shell holders added up after a few calibers.
My browser isn't displaying your pictures, so I can't see what all you got in the PIF. If you don't have a couple of loading blocks you will want at least two 50 round blocks. I've used four at a time to do 200 round batches, although normally I worked in batches of 100 rounds. Bigger batches mean more time between die changes, which increases productivity. It also increases the number of charged cases on the bench for the cat to knock over.
Consider getting a couple of little parts bins to hold cases your are working on. Cases don't really need to be held upright except from when they have been charged until the bullet is seated. It's a lot faster flicking a sized and primed case into a bin than fiddling it into one of the holes on the loading block.
Keep in mind that if you are using a vibratory tumbler you will want an unfinished concrete surface to run it on. I haven't run mine anywhere other than the garage floor, but suspect it would make a racket if I ran it on the bench and possibly wear the finish off the painted basement floor at the house.
Maybe somebody else here can confirm what I 've read that the walnut shells will give a satin finish to your cleaned brass as opposed to the bright finish you would get from cobs. Neither finish is good nor bad, just that walnut shell will be a little different finish from factory fresh cases.
Cob media has worked OK for me but I'm planning on switching to walnut. I clean first and then decap, size and prime on the turret press. When I have decapped first I had a lot of problems with the cob getting stuck in the flash hole, and the cob really didn't seem to clean the primer pockets anyway. Changing to walnut will solve both of those problems, but I'm too cheap to toss the half jug of cob that I have on hand.
A used dryer sheet torn into thirds will pick up a lot of the dirt that would otherwise wind up in your media. It's time to change it when you are questioning whether I really want to touch it or not. I probably should change it more often than that.
I try to minimize lead exposure by separating cases from media outside so that any dust blows away. I probably should wear a dust mask when I'm harvesting brass at the range by sifting through the buckets of spent cases. Wearing a glove on the hand that handles the brass while reloading wouldn't be a bad idea, but I don't know that it's strictly necessary.
If you are going to decap and then clean, consider getting a universal decapping die or a handheld, off the press decapping tool. It will keep your sizing dies cleaner than using them to decap dirty brass.
If you are using Lee dies consider getting The UniqueTek Perfect adapter. They have a version that allows you to attach the RCBS Uniflow powder measure or several others to the top of the expanding die. I used the Lee Perfect powder measure version of this (different threads in that bushing) and it worked quite well.
For an off the press priming tool consider spending the extra money to get one that uses standard case holders or doesn't need one at all. I have a Lee Auto-Prime which works well enough, but the cost of the proprietary shell holders added up after a few calibers.
My browser isn't displaying your pictures, so I can't see what all you got in the PIF. If you don't have a couple of loading blocks you will want at least two 50 round blocks. I've used four at a time to do 200 round batches, although normally I worked in batches of 100 rounds. Bigger batches mean more time between die changes, which increases productivity. It also increases the number of charged cases on the bench for the cat to knock over.
Consider getting a couple of little parts bins to hold cases your are working on. Cases don't really need to be held upright except from when they have been charged until the bullet is seated. It's a lot faster flicking a sized and primed case into a bin than fiddling it into one of the holes on the loading block.
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