How I Get My Filework Done

[BillEllis]

Here and now, I have to tell you that most of my information about filework came from a knifemaker friend of mine, Mel Nishiuchi. His guidance has helped me tremendously.

I guess filework could qualify as one of those things that makes some of my razors and knives a little different... and recognizable. Filework may be a tad over the top for those of you that like the plain razors and there is certainly nothing wrong with that either. I make 'em both ways.




I see that some of my scale-making techniques from my cd and my blog cropping up in the forums often enough that it makes me smile. I enjoy looking at good work, no matter who does it. It has been my pleasure to be able to contribute some worthwhile information to the straight razor community that encourages participation like it has.

I'm going to take some of the mystery out of the equation for you regarding filework. With a little practice and some patience, I'm sure some of you who wind up making your own knives and razors would like to tackle some filework by adding your own flair and I hope I see some of it in the future.

Let me add here that using one of those small dremel cut-off wheels isn't the way to do it. Using them is not only very obvious, it's my opinion that it is also tacky, hardly ever accurate, and originates right down the street from an Oklahoma trailer park. If using one is your only choice, I wouldn't do any filework at all. In all my years making knives, I have never seen any good filework done with a cut-off wheel yet. Cowboy up and do it right, I tell you...

[BillEllis]

Keep in mind, you will not be able to do this with an existing razor. You could do simple linear stuff with a thin cut-off dremel disc, but that's like putting that tinted film in your car windows that always shows the air bubbles. (Can you tell I don't like cut-off wheels?) An existing razor has already been heat treated and is too hard to use this process. This razor hasn't been heat treated yet, so it is soft enough to use files on.

This first pic shows how I marked the blade with a thin-line permanent marker in even increments along the spine. I first make tiny dots at the desired distance near the edge for the length that I want the filework. Then I use a machinist square to extend the lines all the way across to the other side. If the tang has any taper to it, this does not work. In those cases, like this one, I eyeball it. If it looks good, it probably will be good when you follow through with the files.

[BillEllis]

Then I take a small triangular file and put a V on alternating marks along the spine. I do this to keep the round file that I will be using in the next step from drifting and messing up the pattern.

[BillEllis]

Then I come back and use a round file and take away the material to the parallel marking on the farther edge. The parallel markings were put on before any grinding took place. The spacing between lines is about the diameter of the round file that you would use. The thicker the spine, the bigger file you can use. You can experiment with different distances and file sizes to suit your own artistic touches.

[BillEllis]

Go around to all the marks and file all these half circles. It should look symmetrical... or close to it. I'm a bit off in a spot or two. I'll blame it on 60 year-old eyeballs.

[BillEllis]

I have to make an addendum to the statement I made about not being able to do filework on existing razors.

Dave Thomas, a knifemaker, does it and his work is fantastic. He says that he starts with a diamond coated file and then goes to carbon files to finish up. I am not at liberty to say exactly what he does because I do not have his permission to reveal his techniques. Basically, he starts out with a diamond file and then goes to carbon files, but he says he ruins one file on every razor he puts filework on.

Keep in mind, this is only one of the many patterns of filework that I use. For this one, I start out with a small quality triangular file and make a barb at the trailing edge of each half circle. Then, do the rest of them. Try to keep things close. *word to the wise - try this on scrap material first* This pic shows everything in the rough stages of filing.

[BillEllis]

Everything is a little closer, but now I need to ensure all the barbs have a point and not a square end. The finesse stage is next. I try to get everything with the filework as close as I can get it before it goes to heat treating.

Don't forget to add the filework to the bottom of the tang.

[papasmurf]

Bill you are insane man. That blade looks great as always . Really glad you share your secrets here with us


Thank you

[BillEllis]

Here's a file pattern I just call "vine"

[Gentleman]

O M G! What a lovely kind of work! You will see a razor improve by the minute, i guess Bill?

Really nice work (but you already know it)!

[SilkySmooth]

That's awesome Bill!



==Tom

[chillpill]

This is a sweet post. Although I don't work with razors, I do create works with steel (daily). This insight is very appreciated. Cheers Bill.

[asbjorn]

Let me add here that using one of those small dremel cut-off wheels isn't the way to do it. Using them is not only very obvious, it's my opinion that it is also tacky, hardly ever accurate, and originates right down the street from an Oklahoma trailer park. If using one is your only choice, I wouldn't do any filework at all. In all my years making knives, I have never seen any good filework done with a cut-off wheel yet. Cowboy up and do it right, I tell you...

I confess... I tried an dremel.. almost ruined the damn thing, but now I have bought an collection of small files, see if I can save some of my damage :D
(Trying to add some extras on an unstamped wapi blade)

Really hope my cd is coming soon so I can learn some tricks..

[FloppyShoes]

Pfffft! I can do that with a dremel cutoff wheel!

Nice post, Bill. Makes me want to get into making these things from scratch.

I tried a similar method (clamped the razor and used a variety of shaped files) on a hardened razor. Folks, this man is not kidding when he says it's MUCH more difficult if the razor is hardened.

Once again, thanks Bill.

[asbjorn]

I guess it will.. (be difficult), to bad you cannot make the dremel go slower..

[PedroNavaja]

Bill, you're a gifted person, not only for your skills, but also your patience, creeativity and willingness to share your knowledge with others

[Lemur]

Beautiful work!
I don't like to copy people but this pattern would fall into the classics,
have an old Le Grelot with vine-pattern engraved on its spine.
Been engraving in hardened steel and it can be a pain in the... even with a gravermax (air powered) and tungsten-carbide gravers.

Does anyone collect spine and grip patterns?
Would be nice to see what's out there!

[Seraphim]

Love it!

Thanks so much for sharing these with us!

Also thanks for warning me off of trying to modify an existing razor!

Do you also work with the new stainless steels, or are your blades all carbon?

[Maximilian]

Thx Bill!

looking forward even more to some of your new offerings coming soon.

[netsurfr]

Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience with us.